jimmy_neutron

I forgot to fit mine last time i had the gearbox off. I was fitting a new slave cylinder so i just slid the rod into the end of the slave cylinder and refitted without the clip. It won't cause a problem until i next need to remove the slave cylinder. Luckily for me i need to replace my gearbox so i may fit a new clip this time.

I had a bit of a play this morning to remind myself of this issue ... I've got a full set of guages which helps a bit. Sitting at idle it starts white smoking after a few minutes. Also can start smoking if driving in 3rd gear at 20mph which is about 1500rpm and 0.05bar boost in mine. At this the bar on the side of the turbo has not started to move. As soon as i creep up the to about 0.18 bar the smoke slowly starts to appear. If i hit the throttle to get a sudden say 0.6bar then i get a quick plume and the smoke is all oer and done with. I honestly do believe that its to do with a small amount of unburnt fuel residue reaching the turbo/exhaust (fairly normal with engines in general anyway). With no boost only a trickle of exhaust gas will go into the compessor and may cause a condensing buildup. When increasing the boost (allowing more exhaust gas to be diverted from the exhaust to the turbo compressor via the wastegate then this buildup will be vapourised and hense released as white smoke out of the exhaust. I seem to remember coming to this conclusion last time i looked at it and therefore just ignored it as i don't sit in traffic often.

Hi ... The answer to the smoke after sitting in traffic a while is .. 'They do'. I tried to work out why but gave up, so if you do ever work it out then i'll be very interested. I do long journeys and very rarely stuck in traffic so it doesn't really bother me that much. 1) It seems worse when its dark and theres car headlights behind 2) The longer you sit at idle the worse the puff of white smoke 3) If you sit at idle for long enough then a bit of smoke will develop then big puff when acelerating away. 4) Starts to build with no turbo boost. 5) Starts to clear slowly (small amount of smoke for an extended period) with a small amount of turbo boost. 6) Clears in one large plume with 1 bar boost. My thoughts on the matter .. 1) Oil attracts water so if leaving veg oil stored for a while, it will absorb water like a sponge especially if you use an ibex container. This can be seen when you change the oil in your chip pan and first heat it up. There are always some bubbles etc which is the water releasing from the oil. This also happens in your engine and could be part of the smoke problem. 2) You are running a smartveg system which is nearly as good as mine so any changes in the characteristics of your driving will have a large effect. Meaning if you were doing realitively short runs then the % of diesel in your veg tank will be increased due to the amount of time the system was on 'flush to tank'. If you suddenly change to longer runs then the % of diesel will be much less. 3) From above make sure you don't run at a greater concentration than 80% veg and 20% diesel and this will help. 4) There is an additive that you can put in your veg which will help with its cetane value http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/veggiboost.html This is also available on ebay. 5) If your injector pump setup isn't correct or you have tampered with it to give your truck more oomph (Like mine B) ) then this may also be part of the cause. When adjusting the pump, the first thing you will have probably done is turn the cone thing 45 to 90 degrees. This is reasonable only if you back off the idle mixture on the top lid. Failure to do this will cause a rich mixture, smokey on veg, and if really bad will cause bad dash board vibrations at tick over. 6) The other likely cause is the distance that the fuel has to go from the heat exchanger to getting burnt. Its all the way from the heat exchanger through the fuel pipe, through the fuel pump, then through them long metal pipes up the side of the engine. At tick over the fuel delivery rate is very slow so therefore cools alot more. Again thinning to 80/20 or 75/25 will help this. One test i was going to do with this is monitor the return fuel temperature. However i lost interest as i did the things mentioned above. Other thing to do is get a 4 tank redex diesel treatment and run it through the veg tank for then next few fill ups.

I think that patch you are refering to is the outer door strengthening plate. Theres one on the inside as well. They are riveted through the doors strengthening bars on the inside thus giving suppport for the wheel carrier.

Strangely enough i was in a td5 disco this morning which had diff lock. I asked the guy how he had done it and he took me to another TD5 disco tranfer box that was on his floor, and showed me the linkage out of the top of the box. It seems that some of the disco 2 boxes have the ability to go into diff lock but it is just the linkage that prevents it. LR must of decided that traction control is better than diff lock for some reason. Thus the guy just bought the kit which is a LR part and fitted it and it gave him diff lock on a disco 2. He did say that he has also seen these boxes that didn't have diff lock at all though, but didn't know how to identify them appart other that just testing them with the linkage removed. The other thing is the LT230Q has a thicker case making it quieter .. but smaller bearings making it weaker. TBH i wouldn't do it.

So what about them stupid half size spare wheels that are fitted in some cars. They are speed rated to something like 50mph. So does that mean that if you fit your spare and are caught then you go to jail ??? The law must allow for this temporary wheel in some way.... and if it does, then why can't a defender run on 4 spare wheels with M/T's on em at a reduced speed of say 60mph ???

I got to the point where i thought mine was going to self destruct at 2500 rpm. Not saying yours is the same. I really would get advice about running with the vac pump off. Not sure if ya can remove the pump and refit the bolts to keep the cog part in place or what ... Someone like Les might know.

You should be able to pick up a good transfer box off a 300tdi for about £100. Few bolts to change over and jobs sorted.

I presume the white smoke goes away after the first accelleration away ? If so thats summat else. The brake vacuum pump noise is really hard to locate. I went through months of ' it can't be that', and in fact the only reason i changed it was because i picked one up on ebay for 99p with £3 postage. My thought was that i wont get a new one cos i aint wasting £100 and if it is that then it will either get worse or better with the 99p version fitted. Even when i got it, it took me 2 months to get round to fitting it because i still wasn't convinced the noise could be that. Changed it and tap tap tap gone. Mine started only when at full temperature and worse after a long hill climb or pulling out of a junction with a heavy trailer on the back. Noise was only there above 2,500 rpm. As time went on it started to be there from 2000rpm and still only when fully warmed up. The longer the drive the more the noise. I still can't believe that them symptoms led me to the brake pump. May be worth asking on ere if ya can run your engine with the brake pump and all it gears removed. I'm not sure if you can. I was tempted to give it a go but resisted temptation. The gears do just pull out. Mine was stuck on the vac pump so came out on their own.

Just drill 3 holes on the joint and use cork ask packing washers / half washers. I'll do a load of pics etc when i get round to making it.

Thats impressive. I know i need to take exactly 30mm out of an lt77 defender bell housing. So ill do the chop and then jig it with 2 pieces of flat bar bolted accross the gearbox mating face. And then attach the flat bar to the bell end with screwed rod. Tack it, then DTI it. then weld it. Didn't that sound nice and simple .

Did you start the engine with the belts removed ?

Maybe .. But the list of things to do to move the engine forward is mounting up ... Exhaust extend Heater to move brackets to weld starter cable to replace And that was just a quick look at the job. Not loads of work but its a couple of days off the road which aint good Modding the box can all be done without taking the van off the road The gearbox will need to be stripped down anyway to overhaul it prior to its fit so fitting a new pinion at that stage isn't really a big ordeal. So all thats needed is to make a bell housing which i agree aint that easy but again it can all be done without taking the van off the road.

I plan to make a bell housing. It will be 30mm shorter than the standard 140mm 200tdi LT77 housing.

I would like to keep the mounting brackets in a standard place as i'm planning a galv chassis in a couple of years so don't want to be welding onto a galv chassis. Also i've got a webasto heater fitted in the front of the engine bay and i don't want to loose it. If moving the engine forward, i would struggle for a good place to fit it.

Some kind person dropped off some engine mounts this morning .. so out i went tape measure in hand and then i found my first error .. I thought i needed to move my engine forward 30mm but in fact i need to move it forward 188mm to take a td5 gearbox. Soooo back to plan A. I'm gonna rebuild a transfer box off a 300tdi disco and I'm gonna strip a td5 R380 suffix L, and rebuild it with a short pinion. Only problem is that i can only find a short pinion for a suffix J so i need to find a good plan for that otherwise i gotta fit a new layshaft etc as well .. Thats it .. hardest bit is done .. I made a decision Wish me luck

see this ... http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/gear_ratio.htm You have got a 1992 NAD ???? Or a 1992 tdi ??

well .. yes it would my original lt77 started with the clunk about 18 months ago. I got it reconned 15 months ago. I didn't do it myself as i couldn't do with the van off the road for more than 3 days. Its been tight ever since and quite difficult when cold and now leaks oil. So i have given up with it. My thought about an lt77 is that i would probably rebuild it myself this time so i know its right but even then its gonna cost a bit and it will never be as smooth to drive as an R380 suffix L. TBH i'm just sick of messing about and want a proper job.

Thanks for that .... I had thought of moving the engine forward and in fact i'm starting to think that that may be the way to go. I didn't really want to do this cos i'm planning on a galv chassis in a couple of years so don't want to modify the mounts to the chassis. Was thinking though that i couple modify some engine to chassis brackets and thus keep the original chassis mountings. If i used a suffix L R380 from a TD5 will this bellhousing fit directly onto my 200tdi ? Do i really need to change the flywheel and rear seal ? I'll need to extend the exhaust down pipe 30mm, anything else i'll need to do ?? TA JN

The very late 300tdi 90's had a rear fuel tank so just had a middle box and a straight through rear. These are standard parts from a motor factors. Bosal part numbers for the exhaust are 211-075 and 851-137. They are about £85 inc vat.

Yeah pin 35 on the ecu should connect to pin 1 on the switch using a back and white wire. The black wire should be connected to earth i think. Look at 20.1 electrical_20schemes_20__20defender_20td5_20_1999_.pdf

Check that the diffs look physically the same and have the same part number on them. Also could be rear wheel steer if the rear trailing arm bushes are badly worn. Look at the front of the rear trailing arm and see if there is a gap between the bush and big metal washer on either side.

A knock when taking up drive could wear on the gearbox mainshaft. This too could maybe explain the whine depending on exactly what that whine sounds like. The best way of ascertaining the degree of wear is to chock the two front wheels, handbrake off, mainbox in first and jack up a rear wheel. Remove the PTO cover to the left of the handbrake and you will be able to see the gearbox mainshaft in the centre and the transfer case input gear around it. By rocking the handbrake drum you will be able to rock the gear around the shaft thus getting some idea of wear / backlash between the two. When these finally give up you loose all drive.

I got the TD5 one in mine and i gotta say i prefer it as on a sunny day ya can still tell which lights are on if ya know what i mean. I use the yellow engine light to show which fuel i'm running on. If it was me then i'd use the red engine light as its on the left side of the cluster. I find the ones on the right can be blocked by the steering wheel / your arm when driving. I may still have them connectors from when i replaced my panel but they will be like the ones in the pic and so will need wires soldering on. Let me know if you want me to look for em though. Also.. not sure but think i remember seeing that you have got a mud dash thingy. If so you could also use one of them carling switches and get it to light up when the power is on. Not as good as the dash light, but another thought. If you want any carling switches then let me know (the ones normally fitted in the mud dash)

Is the disconnected switch causing any problem or is it something that you have just noticed ? Reason i ask is that i thought that the clutch switch was only used with cruise control which you probably won't have.