smallfry
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Posts posted by smallfry
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
For those not on FB can someone post pictures / screenshot the horror?
Its not so much a horror, but the practicality and the price !
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7 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
Nicely crafted but the end result looks like a cross between an Airstream trailer / caravan and a boat. With all that timber I wonder what it weighs?
That timber frame is what they call a "Buck". Its a pattern to form all the panels, which must touch all over to get a smooth and consistent shape. It is not used on the finished vehicle. This is how they make all low volume aluminium bodied cars, like AC Cobras etc.
If you look at the other pics you can see the aircraft type frames that the finished panels are fixed to.
Very nicely done and finished, but so much wasted space, and so much money. It has a novelty value, but is not at all attractive IMO, and whats with the dash ? Looks like its been painted with Hammerite !
Even with my new Euromillions jackpot, I still wouldnt pay that !
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Brilliant. Thirty coats of NATO green will sort out any imperfections !
Have you got to do it all again for the other side ?
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21 hours ago, landroversforever said:
This kind of thing? https://www.redstoneuk.com/Puncture_Proof_Tyres.html
Doesnt ring any bells, but the Redstone products appear to be supplied as special tyres that are fitted in the normal way ?
The stuff I remember was applied to existing tyres fitted to rims, which were then deflated, and ISTR by drilling them and filling.
It worked really well, and the tyre could be worn right through the cords until the foam was exposed.
But yes, punctures in domestic ride on mowers and smaller (and bigger) commercial stuff has always been a real big problem. It used to help a bit by fitting 4 and 6 ply tyres, but this didnt cure the problem completely.
We had a little Wheelhorse ride on, but I got rid of it because of the constant punctures from the Briars and Pyracantha (Firethorn) in the garden, so just use a normal walk behind now, an ancient Mountfield that I bought for £5 in 1999, it lives outside and its still going. Once I get it started that is !
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When I worked in the plant industry, we had a rep come and give us a demo of foam filled tyres. This stuff retained the characteristic of an air filled tyre, and did not solidify like aerosol foam would. It completely fills the tyre and cures to a closed cell sponge rubber.
The demo consisted of driving a treated dumper truck along a scaffold board with 12mm diameter spikes in it. Worked a treat and very impressive although quite expensive as I recall. Apparently it was, and probably still is, used to bullet proof tyres on some military and diplomatic vehicles. We had several vehicles treated, along with a quite a few commercial ride on grasscutting machines, plus a couple of domestic ride ons
Trouble is, I cannot remember for the life of me what is was called.
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Also have to consider if the approach is downhill. This will increase the height requirement. If you are on the flat and level you are lucky.
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Firstly, are you sure the lifters are full of oil before testing them ?
Are you sure you have engine oil pressure ?
If they really do leak down this quickly when cold, they are no good, which would not surprise me TBH.
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19 hours ago, ThreePointFive said:
I really appreciate the offer but please don't go to any trouble for me.
Its no trouble. It has been sitting there for eight years, so doesnt matter if the oil drips (or gushes) out. If it is a stud, I will not remove it.
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Great if it happens in the middle of a box junction in Central London !
Is that actually possible in an EV ? Is there any sort of "reserve" ?
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That kit strikes me as being very expensive, unless its all genuine LR, which I am sure it isnt.
I am sure you will need other things anyway, once you have it apart.
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If you can wait until Monday, I will have a look at my V8 90 which is 20 miles from here and take the bolt out and measure it, if its a bolt and not a stud.
If I remember that is, which seems to be an increasing problem
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1 hour ago, geoffbeaumont said:1 hour ago, geoffbeaumont said:
And this is combined in some cases with no real information to allow you to work on the vehicle. Case in point, our 2015 Zafira C - no workshop manual available as far as I've been able to find out (even online, since Vauxhall and Opel were sold to PSA). Only thing I could find was Haynes online manual - that was a complete waste of money. It's got wiring diagrams, which may be correct - but given at least some of the extremely patchy location diagrams are completely wrong I wouldn't want to bet on it. There's so much information missing it's impossible to fault trace using it. Need to check the pins on the deadlock relay? Where's that then? And nothing on procedures (it's got a section for that - but it turns out to just have generic and very high level descriptions for any car. Basically useless and effectively a scam.
I have noticed this with Haynes manuals these days. PSA and Renault do not seem to issue much information outside of a dealer. I bought one recently for a 2012 Renault Trafic van, but its only fairly well covered because is more or less the same as a Vauxhall Vivaro of a similar vintage. For a newer one, forget it.
Haynes manuals back in the day covered anything, including dismantling the gearbox (except autos) and differentials. Days of that are long gone.
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On 7/2/2022 at 1:46 PM, JeffR said:
A question for everyone, why does one always run out of welding gas at 1.30 on a Saturday afternoon
Because you do, and thats the way it is ! Then, after you have installed your nice replacement cylinder, got the items to be welded cleaned and set up, you find there is only three feet of wire left on the spool
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Its a lot of hassle, but personally, I would disconnect it at the rear and pull it out. Tie a draw wire to it first, so you can re install it.
Its a whole lot more hassle, not to mention expensive, if you burn it !
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Pumping fuel from the reserve to the main tank seems to me a simpler and more reliable solution for the EFI system IMO
What normally kills rotary pumps is running them dry. Who knows ? I think it will be OK, especially if you can have it turn off via the low fuel warning. As its not running permanently, and as you say, it WOULD be handy to have a spare on board.
You could also use an inline facet pump to do this, with a dip tube and flange fitted to the tank, again, earlier Defenders have them. AND, unlike the Genuine, Bearmach, Britpart options, there is someone at Facet stupid questions department/technical who can answer the question about which model would be suitable.
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I always used the PRC8318 pump too (early RRC 3.5 EFI) and a decent inline metal cased filter. Never had any running problems that I can recall.
You can alter it for tank depth by shortening or lengthening the drop bracket and hose if required.
There IS a similar looking one, but that is low pressure for carburettor engines, in 90/110s which is obviously no use to you.
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10 hours ago, Anderzander said:
They had zero interest in finding it, they never returned them to the sender - so what can you think? Binned or stolen 🤷🏻♂️
I had the similar thing happen year before last. Not with Hermes, but Yodel. I had ordered a couple of LED number plate lamps for one of my vans. Never arrived, so I got on to the seller to find out if they had been forgotten about, and was more or less accused of trying to pull a fast one. Eventually and reluctantly they sent some replacements which I fitted and forgot about.
The originals turned up here fourteen months later ! No idea how or where they had been, so dont give upon your tents yet !
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Its all very relevant, and what people feel, but in that case, as Land Rover do not produce an EV (yet) perhaps EVs should not be discussed at all, on this forum ?
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On 6/29/2022 at 5:07 PM, Nonimouse said:
As it's a large part of my job, Environment is quite important to me. I've actually read it - well. the Summary and Technical summary. There are holes large enough to steer the Queen Mary through, but like any technical report, those holes are only noticeable if you know and understand how the environment works. Carbon calculation is very much a random number generator; and Carbon pollution is a very misunderstood science, beloved of politicians and trouble makers the world over.
Of far more concern to me, and should be to others, is the ACTUAL holes in the ground, generally in third world countries, and all the, environmental damage, pollution and water consumption involved in obtaining raw materials, processing, refining, shipping, manufacturing, and recycling of batteries. If you do some reading, its really bad. Much more so that worry about "breaking even" in carbon neutrality, or the inconvenience of limited range et al.
All thats really going on, is swapping one sort of environmental damage for another, once again at the expense of less developed countries
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Weight of the doors should not be a problem, as the lintel keeps the uprights apart. If you were hanging a gate, for example, on a single upright post, then weight can become a problem.
The problem you may have if when the doors are opened. The weight will be trying to pull the frame sideways from the walls, but as long as it is properly fixed it should be OK, but being a sectional building, I wouldnt know if the walls are up to it.
The problem you will have with tanalised carcassing timber, is that it shrinks quite a lot(it is basically pallet wood) and can warp if left in the sun. You would need to leave it properly stacked out of direct sun to allow it to dry out on both sides for six months before using it, or you will end up with 3-4mm gaps between the planks.
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On 6/25/2022 at 5:52 AM, Mossberg said:
Not really looked at these before but looks interesting!
Once you have one you will never look back. Clean accurate cuts which just cannot be achieved with an ordinary circular saw.
I have even got rid of my table saw now, as this does all I used to do with that, but better.
You must look after the track though.
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7 hours ago, Stellaghost said:
If you can remove the spindle from the gears and bearings it could be set up in the lathe and straightened with the aid of a copper hammer and a DTI regards Stephen
Good idea Stephen, although I think the assembly is pressed together, and I dont think there are big enough gaps between the components to get something in there to pull them apart. If I could, I would also change the bearing while I'm at it. Then there is the problem of finding the correct high speed/high temp grease.
I shall also have to invest in another copper hammer though, as I have managed to bury the old one in the garden somewhere.
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1 hour ago, Anderzander said:
Just looked on EVRI and it says their max weight is 15kg ? I must be missing something…
Maybe its a contract thing ? But I have never had one damaged or lost. Not saying that all of them have arrived via them, just seems most of them do !
There are several parcel service brokers out there, like Interparcel. Should only need a pallet if its a big truck tyre !
Nice camper, but .......
in International Forum
Posted
One problem with and actual bus or truck, is traction. They are so easy to get stuck on flat, loose or slippery surfaces, let alone off road or any sort of hill. Even with better tyres they are not much better.
I have a Unimog 406 with a hulking great crane on the back, so its very top heavy and somewhat "disconcerting" But even if I took that off and turned it into a camper, why would you, at about 12 to 14 mpg ? Couldnt afford to go anywhere !