AD90

Along the face of the wheel box, and if it's too long - cut a bit off. Will you really miss 2"? AD90

Stanley for me! The old 5000 series were best (red and blue cabinet maker style handles) I often pick the odd one up at car boot sales. The new ones are good, they feel nice and can takes lots of torque - just don't hit them with a hammer. AD90

Get yourself down to Millers Oils, I get all my lubricants & other stuff direct from them. AD90

Guys, It's not just good for jackets, it's great for sealing too. It is very compliant and resistant to thermal cycling, although not quite up to EGT levels http://www.gore.com/en_xx/products/sealant...ts/gaskets.html AD90

For VSRs have a look at these http://www.marinemegastore.com/product-product-ECS_25270.htm as they are designed for marine applications they are hermetically sealed, therefore ideal for the hostile environment of an offroad vehicle. Cheers AD90

Does Joe Public really buy Snap-On? I remember buying Snap-On years ago, for the maintenance of Jet Engines (as is the norm) and the Snap-On rep was quite open about his business (probably due to the size of the order) He said his best business was not selling tools, but selling finance! To be honest, I have used Snap-On a lot and it feels really nice (except pliers - yuk!) but as for quality and reliability and VALUE I would have to offer some alternative names - Proto, Facom and Craftsman I have built my kit up over many years and it's a real mixed bag; My 1/2" socket set is a 24 year old Draper set and only the ratchet has been replaced despite lots of abuse, including on the end of a Windy-Gun! 3/8" socket set is Craftsman (brought it back from USA and I rate it VERY highly), 1/4" socket set is a mix of OLD Draper, Gedore and I bought some KC Pro-am in a hurry one day and it seems OK, spanners are mainly Britool with a few other odds & sods (Heyco, Teng, Stanley, Draper) that I have picked up at Car Boot Sales etc, and like the most of the people here I also have some Halfords Pro stuff, I have a set of Stubby ratchet spanners and find them great. I went for the stubbies as if it's that tight you should not be pulling on a ratchet anyway and they get into tighter spots. One piece of advice I would give to anyone, is do NOT buy the Halfords multi purpose circlip pliers (the ones with the interchangeable heads) they are 100% poo! Cheers AD90

I'm gonna get shouted at; 8mm Steel for me (mainly winchmonkey but have driven)! Reasons; It's 1/10th of the price It snags less on the drum It's not nearly as delicate when over rocks etc Ok, when it snaps it's more dangerous, but it snaps a lot less and, as a winch bitch, you just need to consider your position Did I mention it's 1/10th of the price therefore you can afford to change it after every event without the need to sell a kidney AD90 Runs, ducks for cover and awaits the hail of 'it's not safe' comments

Just found this in Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutting_speed If you work out for a 3/8" drill in 'tough steel' 533rpm

Do not use a stainless steel bolt, I doubt you will get the correct tensile strength. Going up a size is one way, however I think a threaded insert and the correct size bolt is a more elegant solution. AD90 PS. The speed of hand held drills is usually what kills drill bits, some thing like this http://www.survequip.com/DEWALT-DW246-ROTARYDRILL/ is a lot better than this http://www.screwfix.com/prods/97572/Power-...sion-Drill-230V for drilling metals. It gets it slow speed through a gearbox, so you still get the torque unlike the vari-speed jobbies. Other drills are available these were just two I found quickly, the second being fine for wood working DIY.

I had a couple of bolts snap on a rear stub axle, I got one out with an easy-out, the other I ended up drilling it out and using a threaded insert. Coming from an aero-engine/turbine background I have no issues with threaded inserts (If I did, I would never fly again) Best easy-outs - http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/10-Screw-Extra...et/EN/index.htm Threaded Inserts - http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=7780 AD90

MAPP sounds like it might do the job, for the price I'll give it a try. Thanks Andrew

Without going to a full oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane set-up what is the best? My Butane/propane, plumbers type blow-torch is lacking sometimes. Thanks AD90

I have to agree with landybehr. Wire thread inserts are used extensively on aircraft engines, and not without good reason(s). One reason being; the simple fact that if you put a 1/4unf screw directly into the aluminium casing then the strength is limited by the effective diameter of the thread in the aluminum. If you fit an insert, the 1/4 screw is now in steel and the limit is now at the effective diameter of the steel insert in aluminium. Did that make sense? AD90

I like soldered lugs, but most of the modern lugs are crimps and have a hole in them that lets the solder run out. I have wondered about blocking it up with a very short self-tapper? AD90

Thanks Les, Do you have a source for Bearmach CVs? I can only get Britpart stuff locally, and not had much success with it recently. Thanks Andrew

I broke a CV out playing today, my own fault (agressivly rocking the truck while well stuck) Anyway, and before someone jumps in and suggests spending lots of money at Ashcroft, I know it's THE way to go, but cant afford it right now. What is best to fit; GKN, Britpart, Allmakes????? It's a 300Tdi 90 Also what all parts would I need to go from TDJ000010 to AEU2522? Just a thought THanks AD90

Thanks Guys, I've heard little except good reports on the OME stuff, but I am running Lovells springs and am very hapy with them, just not happy with my Pro-Comp shocks. Hence looking for some advice before parting with a chunk of cash. AD90

Having seen my friends 90 eat Pro-Comp and found both my rear shocks leaking after ~12 Months, aybe it's time to go up-market. What's the thoughts on Lovells compared to OME? AD90

I will need to overhaul my swivels before MOT time. I see some companies selling 'kits'; are these worth buying? Or do I buy genuine parts or a combination of both (Pattern Challis, genuine seals)? Thanks AD90

I had a similar issue on our 1999 2.0Xdi. It went back to the main dealer who failed to identify that the spot welds on the OSR chassis rail had failed. This allowed some movement. i.e. when reversing on right hand lock the driving action of the wheel tried to pull the chassis apart and it popped back when going forward. I seam welded the chassis and the problem was solved.

The best stud extracters are Rigid ones http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/10-Screw-Extra...et/EN/index.htm Expensive but they are better than the normal ones as they are parallel not tapered. The tapered ones have a tendancy to swell the broken screw in the hole making them harder to get out. The back-stop is always threaded inserts http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/R...epair_Kits.html AD90

From a guy that works in a marine environment. Copper Grease and LOTS of it! At the risk of upsetting someone, apologies if I am not allowed to do this, this is my favourite http://www.kspaul.com/pbc1main.htm AD90

Thanks Chris, I have tried polishing the seal areas and fitting the seal a little deeper into the hub. Hopefully that will do the trick for now. AD90

Thanks guys, I have fitted it the right way. Probably the pitting on the stub-shaft that is causing the leak, hence the question about the Britpart stub-shaft. £35+VAT as opposed to £69+VAT from LR Cheers AD90

Has anyone got a diagram showing the correct orientation for the installation of these seals? (FTC4785G) Also does anyone have experience of Britpart Stub-shafts (FTC3188) I ask as I have just spent a bit of time swearing at a Britpart rear crossmember. Thanks AD90