SteveRK

Part No. is: MTC7553 Retainer. Craddocks list the part No. and price at £14.99. This does not mean they have it in stock though. http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/index.asp

Hi Nut Strangler - I bought my Disty' cap from Famous Four and came in a Lucas box, it is Black with no markings as yours is - I haven't thought anything about it as it seems to b o.k. The original cap was Blue which i have kept. Lucas was bought out/sold off a few years back so it may be why the cap has changed?

I'm not an expert on autos but perhaps the proverbial revers 'brake' band ~(if it has one) needs adjusting. The brake bands were normally adjustable on the side of the box.

Although its not the same but the oil used in superchargers smells absolutely rotten, to the extent that it can cause 'big white telephone syndrome' . I'm wondering if the Visous clutch uses a similar type of oil and has failed - hence the stink from the oil is from the Viscous unit?

If the steering box you have fitted is 'new' then maybe an adjustment as per Westerns advice. If the box is used then it is often best to adjust free play with the steering off 'dead ahead centre' the reason being is that they wear most in the straight ahead position, meaning that taking out the free play results in a bit of binding when any lock is applied. I have adjusted the free play in mine one turn off straight ahead.

Although Series Land Rovers often look really tasty when modified I have to say that your 'Factory As New' looking example looks absolutely stunning - Even if you have second thoughts about all the work involved your Series will live on for a few years yet!

I'll Echo that - theres no wonder product out there for softening gaskets and removing carbon deposits - A sharp flat blade and paraffin is what i use for 99% of cleaning up jobs

My brother has a TDi Disco and it was suffering from a lazy starter - turned out the brushes wear at an angle due to the design somehow. Filed them square and good as new - he did sourve some from LR Series as back up: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/category/sear...Search+the+shop

I'm no expert but might be one of the oil scraper rings on No. 1 piston. My experience on old ford engines and worn valve stem oil seals was that the smoke level remained constant, at tick over on a hot engine it was just the same as when revving. With a faulty oil scraper ring though i would expect the smoke levels to rise with revs. Before opting for the dooms day scenario It may also be possible that the oil is getting into the cylinder via an engine breather that connects to the inlet manifold in the vicinity of No.1 intake. Good idea to thoroughly check all breather pipes and flame traps etc. I had a Jag years ago that smoked bad on full revs and traced it to a blocked breather - i suspect this caused excessive pressure build up in the crankcase resulting in oil being forced through one of the breather pipes into the inlet manifold.

Bish-Bosh-Bang SORTED!! Thanks Geoff. Loads of 'blinking' error codes took a while to clear out but a quick test on the drive and it now goes out at approx' 4mph. For once an easy fix And what a good system it is to diagnose ABS faults - Surely not a Lucas system?

Cheers Geoff. Good idea as its had the rear wheel sensors disconnected for a while and possibly other sensors not pushed home fully etc. I will clear them this evening and see what I end up with. Being a fatalist it will be a differant error 'flashing light' code thats not listed of course!

I only recently discovered that my ABS isn't working (passed the MOT though) . Yep, previous owner had removed the ABS and ETS traction control bulb holders. Yet another snide bodge to be sorted. Anyway i have carried out the diagnostic procedure and appear to have a 2 - 3 error code which isnt listed Anyone seen this code?

Full penetration is a 'must-do' on all occasions as i say Although its only a hobby welder I have invested in a Size Y BOC Argoshield Light bottle, wheeled trolley and an adapter pipe to fit the small pipe that comes with the welder so i have all the gas i need now. Now that the stern is sorted and will outlive the rest of the vehicle i have noticed some rot on the o/s bottom of the drivers door pillar (A post?) where it meets the sill, then front passenger foot well to cut out a small amount of rot and patch locally, And now its only running on 6 cylinders so i cant even drive the bloody thing till' thats sorted. The A post may involve some upside down welding which i have yet to master as it tends to do the obvious and blob onto the tip - as they say.

floor in and painted up with'synthetic coach enamel' brush applied. I was told by the supplier that 1 litre is enough to paint 3 Range Rovers and he's not wrong.

Waxol is available from Halfords or from www.frost.co.uk who have shipped me various paints in tins and aerosols so will also ship waxol. Good idea and probably works - but yes, why bother unless its a personal 'anti-establishment - one in the eye - not invented here type of thing. And, there will always be that nagging thought after having done the job as to whether it really is as good?

If the shaft that the release bearing and carrier slides on is rusty it might cause jerky clutch action. If the front face of the release bearing is badly pitted it could also cause problems. If the release 'bearing' itself is worn out it might cause problems etc. oil from a long tube fed into the shaft and release bearing might be worth trying. Of course testing the clutch pedal for smoothness with the engine off would highlight any stickyness on the shaft

Its possible all the water did was make the clutch slip a bit more than normal thereby alleviating the judder? I'd try spraying oil onto the shaft/release bearing instead in case it is dry and sticking. Assuming gearbox and engine mounts are all o.k of course. I'm also assuming that the engine is not cutting out on any cylinders during ull-away. A drastic test is to really punish the clutch to burn off any contaminent, second gear lots of revs, slip clutch gradually. Only to be done two or three times.

Valid point, I hope not. With the U channel bracing and at the front with the rear seat belt chassis supports i'm hoping it will be sufficiently rigid to prevent this. I get enough ear bashing in my old transit as it is! At the moment now that its all bolted down its pretty dam solid, but not yet road tested of course.

Couple of intial thoughts: Reverse light switch not adjusted correctly? Dependant on age of vehicle (with Fuel injected engines) the auto gearbox is connected to the ECU. Is the connection intact? Manual boxes have a fixed resistor wired in series in place of this conenction for auto boxes.

I had to check my Haynes manual several times also. HOwever... i have also read somewhere that earlier boxes had one type of oil and later boxes had the other. Not sure which way round but either EP90 in the earlier box and ATF in the later, or the other way round. I think you need to identify the type/age of the box first. It may even be in the Haynes - mine has the later supplement section.

Gooed up and fitted at long last: 6mm stainless bolts & nuts around the perimeter and the floor sandwiched with sealer - time for a cuppa' Tea and a smoke Clean up of the floor, apply some body sealer and paint next

Story do far. Piece of 2mm thick mild steel sheet will be the new floor. It overlaps at the sides and front end. Welded various strip and U channel to provide rigidity on the underside: The red dotted lines correspond to where the floor will sit on the two front crossmembers Bit of tin worm needed cutting out of the O/S rear corner wing. Now filled, rubbed down, filled, rubbed down, filled, bloddy rubbed down etc ready for undercoat.: Bough some 'Brush Enamel' from Turners Paints the other week so will see how well it matches and what sort of finish it gives. I'm hoping it works well as spray tin paint is microns thin and always is a pain to blend in but with a brush i can do all those other rust scabs around the sides etc. Floor is now tetrasealed' on the underside and will be undergoing final fitting tomorrow whetehr it likes it or not, GOD its taking forever this job

I was referring to the output shaft that passes through the clutch assembly

If the disconnected battery is going flat in 24hrs it must have an internal short circuit on one or more cells. Typically this is caused when a plate crumbles and sediment builds up at the bottom of the battery shorting one or more plates together. Shocks and vibration hasten the demise of batteries in this way

I'm up in Wokingham Berkshire but will look out for it. Makes my blood boil stinking, thievin' scum. Based on the age of the vehicle it sounds like they could want it for a ram raid/hold up etc. or even £50 for a crack cocaine fix. That makes 3 crimes out of one