SteveRK

My cruise control is intermittent, my brother's Disco CC didn't work at all - in his case after thoroughly checking out all the wiring, switches and relays he replaced the cruise control ECU & now it works. I suspect mine may be the same remedy as i have also checked thoroughly all elements of the system: Brake and clutch electrical cut-out switches & mechanical vacuum vents (immediately dissipates the vacuum when pedals are pressed for safety) Relay behind driver's side kick panel steering wheel switches master cruise control switch pump operation (vacuum pipe was perished at the point where it connects as it follows a sharp bend at this point) Mine works when it wants to so i am suspecting a proverbial dry joint in the ECU which is located on mine above and to the left of the clutch pedal behind the lower steering wheel dash panel

Sounds like its worth trying. The further the fan is away from the radiator the less it will force air through. But, it will be runnning a lot faster than the engine fan at tickover and still nearer to the radiator, but, it wont be 'washing' air over the engine in the way that an engine mounted fan does so give it a go.

Is the air suspension pump/valve system mounted on the side of the chassis rail like it is on the Classic models?

Notwithstanding the Castor angle being out of spec I would suggest its camber thats causing the tyre wear. Although it was on my car with independent front suspension I have experience of camber angle shredding the front N/S tyre down to the canvas on the inside edge. The camber wasn't out by much and certainly not visually detectable looking from the front etc. Possible that its been shunted into a kerb sideways in the past also causing the castor angle to be out as well.

I would like to comment - no need to be sarcastic

It is possible to flair the end of a steel pipe enough to provide grip for the hose clip fitted behind it. Various methods can be used with varying degrees of success.

I agree with Monster - Even if you have a 6 volt coil fitted 12v is only applied during cranking position so the DC current flow which is probably quite high coupled to a defective or low quality coil could cause fun and sparks.

U lucky B*****D!, In the words of Monty Python..... U lucky, lucky ********** Welcome Aboard! On a more serious note it really depends where the source of the leak is - if its not emanating from the front crankshaft seal or rear crankshaft seals then the only cure is to remove the sump and fit a new gasket - after checking the tightness of the sump bolts - which should be only just nipped if it has a cork gasket! otherwise you will distort the sump and make the leak worse. Leaks are sometimes caused by blocked breathers/flame trap on to pof rocker cover if it has one fitted etc, resulting in excessive pressure build up in the crankcase.

go to www.europaspares.com and search for ILC8 (8mm straight coupling) to fit between the cup pipe at the tank end and new flexible pressure rated hose. 8mm bore hose and steel pipe clips etc readily available

I reckon on the bonnet will be a bit of a distraction as that big-ol' tyre will sit quite high. I agree about the roof rack but why not fabricate an alloy square frame to attach to the gutters about the same diameter as the tyre?

I have four of their 12V models to keep mine charged plus the van, bike and movers etc. and i swear by them also as they are 'very' intelligent and never cook the batteries. High current cycle charging if it detects sulphation in the battery is also part of the design. Not the cheapest at £40 each but i have used them on batteries for several years and they maintain them in tip top condition. I reckon i should get a referral fee

I used self tappers on mine and it seemed like it was gonna be an impossible job to get the seal to stay in as you work along. I used an old bone handled cutlery knife with a nice flat, thin, wide blade and ground the rounded end square - much better than a screw driver to feed the seal in.

I was gonna suggest putting some penetrating oil don the shaft as well. The plastic cover may also be to prevent any stray arching from damaging the low tension stuff so might be a good idea as suggested to put some PVC tape over the hole

Now that the cost of tax has got to the point of being significant I feel sorry for those people that that will be affected who drive only a couple of thousand miles a year. An out moded tax that takes no cognisance of how many miles are driven i.e. company car driver ala me clocking 25k a year and the recently retired person who has just treated himself/herself to a retirement car etc. Because of this the tax no longer represents a fair and equal tax.

I wouldn't have thought bearings were the sort of items that would be made to a low quality specification' To set up manufacturing bearings is a very expensive operation. Bearing manufacturers make bearings have to conform to very specific specifications for each bearing type that cover load, RPM, tolerance, temperature etc. I notice the bearing says 'England' on the side? Is it not possible that it has been contaminated by the swarf from the original bearing - or some other contamination the caused the original bearing to fail? Take a grinder to the bearing to see if it is badly scored inside - this would indicate contamination.

Blatantly shoddy workmanship - insulting to any owner. This is not about a subjective opinion on the quality of the repair - its downright sub-standard so 'quality' just isn't up for discussion. If all the rivets were fitted - but misaligned or loose then we can talk about quality. If the bolt was done up tight but had a rounded head we could also talk about quality. If the grommets were fitted but the holes were too large for the cable........... And so on. If this garage is a run of the mill car repair agent then might be best pursuing with the insurance company? With Land Rover in the process of being sold i suspect they have other priorities on their mind and wouldnt get involved in advising as to what sort of quality is expected

Couple of suggestions: Have you checked that the mount nuts/bolts are tight? Have you checked that no cable looms/hoses etc. are being stretched between the engine and bodywork? as that can transmit vibration and noise into the bodywork

Result - glad to hear you sorted it. Familiar theme with Land Rovers in that some jobs are a bugger - considering where Land Rovers are intended to be used these are the sorts of jobs that sometimes need to be done and should have been considered by LR during the design stage

Agree - petrol will settle out and sit on top of the diesel so if you can get access to the fuel pump (assuming its the same as for the Range Rover Classic you can remove the pump and suck out the petrol in the tank before flushing/priming the fuel system

Sounds familiar to my clutch problem. Beld the clutch and it made it significantly worse - replaced the clutch MASTER cylinder and cured the problem. Took apart the old unit and basically the seals were badly, but evenly worn. I took a chance as it could have been the SLAVE cylinder but i figured that the master cylinder travel is more and therefore the seals get more wear than the slave cylinder

Jeez - not havin' much luck by the sounds of it! Lets hope it sails through the MOt - we are expecting Zero Carbon emmissions

You say you tried another coolant temp' sensor but did not fit it - do you mean you simply plugged the sensor into the connector? If so and the engine was warm this would have the effect of richening the mixture as the sensor would be 'cold' in relation to engine temp. There is also a fuel temp' sensor fitted into the fuel rail. Both of these sensors have the same resistance characteristics - a simple test is to connect a 200-300 Ohm resistor across each of the connectors - this will simulate a hot engine and therefore weaken the mixture. Engine cold the resistance of each will be in the region of 1500-2000 Ohms. The fuel temp rail soon cools after starting a hot engine as the circulation of 'fresh' fuel resulting from the pressure regulator by-passing excess pressure - check the vacum pipe from the back of the manifol to the regulator to make sure its intact - this can cause over fuelling if the vacum isnt present.

In the absence of replies i would suggest the following as a starting point (i dont have the specs' for your engine) Normally vacum pipe removed Idle advance timing between 4 -8 degrees as a starting point. Drive and listen for pinking - retard a couple of degrees at a time. These assume the normal caveats of correctly adjusted points, plugs etc.

Good News! If the idle screw isnt having any effect then looking at the diagram it would suggest that the hole that the end of the pilot screw fits into is blocked. Item 24 appears to show some kind of air bleed that would bypass the pilot screw hole - until the pilot screw is removed venting atmosphere into the carb negating any vacum suction acting on the hole/s at item 24?????????????? Sometimes when pilot screws are wound fully in the very end of the tip breaks off and plugs the hole. Keep going we aim for perfection on here

sounds like you need a new stat - or one that opens at a higher temperature. Aso, (Mines a V8) and the stat has a small bleed hole in it but is surprising how much this vents water into the rad as the top hose and top of the rad get warm very quickly long before my stat opens.