De Ranged

An interesting idea that Roll center height would effect this Your lucky I want a break from screwing my head up in CAD so I ran a simple wire diagram (assuming a flat 1000mm panhard with your figures and 100mm of travel up at the panhard axle mount) the RRC will move the axle sideways about 21mm, wildfing 34mm While that was a bit more than I expected I don't think it is enough..... first sidewall flex, wildfing is on alot bigger tires with a similar rim this is going to suck up alot of this sideways motion... Next issue I see that would have an effect on this is unsprung weight, lets start with the worst of it the tyres again, what does your 36"s weigh in at 50kg vs the rangies little 20kg add into this the fact your axle is alot more complex on wildfing this would add alot more weight as well this is all weight that has to radically change direction to climb out of the rut all on a tenuous bit of grip To be fare you really need to run the same vehicle and tyres lol its a bit like comparing apples and oranges I have read that a high roll center will cause a less precise feel for the driver at speed, but this was track related and from the above measurements I could see this Will be interesting to see what others see of it....

Not a big fan of 4wd retreads for road use.... due to the larger size and offroad use, i don't think the cases are reliable enough, thats without mistakes from factory... we got a run of BFG AT's that would get down to about 5mm of tread and then de-laminate... I had all 4 do it within a few months on my pajero, one bulge was almost an inch tall lol oh and for those running them this was back in the 90's I think BFG fixed the problem I wrote up a reply yesterday but my comp crashed (doesn't like cold weather lol) other than a couple of things that were a long shots came back to the most likely the wheels lol Oh and if you need em balanced again go to stick on weights and glue them on with super glue, you can stack the weights... trick from one of the local tyre shops, will stop you loosing your weights when you air down offroad (your beads move and don't hold the weights to the rim so they get knocked off)

Could you explain "shimmy" for me.... is it a pulsing in the steering wheel, or is it a wonder in the tracking (you have to keep adjusting the wheel to keep it straight), is there any noise that accompanies it (an increase in road noise or a droning), if there is a noise can you change its tone by speeding up slowing down Oh and a side note how do you center a steering box with a drill? I do it by removing the pitman arm, turn the steering wheel lock to lock counting revolutions then turn the wheel to the middle of this count, with the wheels pointing ahead line up the pitman while it is attatched to the steering linkages (if the pitman is off parallel adjust drag link, fit the pitman back to the box (if it is high pointing on the spline bias it towards the center of the road ie I'm RHD so I bias to the right, this counters road camber) After all that check the steering wheel if it isn't center pull it and refit it

Lol I think I should state the risks and the safety if your going to have a go at copying... grinding with the mill is a case of patience lol push too hard or deep and bang.... they are no where as nasty as when they blow in a grinder as the mill can only spin them at 1200rpm But you still want a full face mask and keep your hands below the level of the disk another good tip is to watch out for gauling on the disk you won't see it on the disk you see it as heat marks on the work, if you look at the pic the cut out spline below the last cut.... its more obvious due to the lack of material to sink the heat but if this had been a first cut I would have swopped the disk out

LOL I was thinking the same thing Soren

Lol for me its fun as its not work... its kind of why I haven't bothered to learn 3D Had enough of measuring and CAD and a mate wanted a catch up at the shed so I felt I should do something on the truck, so I decided to take a punt that the transfercase bits on there way up will fit and decided to finish the PTO shaft, by cutting the dog clutch splines Still got another pass to cut down the middle of each tooth and I have a spline

I'm working in AutoCAD 2010.... I really like there 2D tool set, the 3D stuff I find auckwood, but that maybe just because I haven't used it enough, back when I got AutoCAD I tried a few products, turboCAD, good price but found there interface left me frustrated, but at I think it was $240 it is increadable value, Solidworks, If i was doing 3D I would have got this.... I found it the easiest 3D to use simple and very productive, (with the best tutorials)... but the 2D tools left me frustrated lol and since I problem solve in 2D it lost out The other reason for AutoCAD is there file type is a factory standard here lol I send DFX everyone can open them....

Yep doing that sort of working around the 104" area, I'm not one of those that gets hung up on WB an inch here or there isn't going to have that much effect Got to draw up alot more in CAD yet, before I make the decision, might even have to 3D profile it yet (hoping to avoid this as I'm not good at this in CAD lol).... I'm old school I still work in Orthographic (plan, elevation and side view) catch is my drawing is getting real congested, even with layers and being able to turn things on and off lol Might post up a pic of the plan when I'm finished...

Thank you for that, stripped the axle last night and after measuring up found the mounting tabs on the hilux caliper don't want to fit...knew there had to catch lol

Lol Well I have confirmation from the Offroad racing scrutineer Chassis rails must remain complete, they can be shortened by 200mm at each end and narrowed up to 230mm, no notching/cutting or kinking but I get to remove add modify cross members as I like and I get to position the chassis rails anywhere in the vehicle lol Hmmmm will take a couple of days to think and play with this one.... might be stitching the chassis back to original shape Got to add the bits I wasn't concerned with into CAD but the rough idea is narrow the front and push the chassis back behind the front axle and tilt the chassis up at the back lol

Will be putting the a front axle on the bench this week and work out options from there, rear axle I'm uncertain on yet got to talk to the certify-er about it and based off the weight and Kw increase.... goal is to have the paperwork go off within 2 Will more than likely use toyota parts as I know them well and have a good recipe, modified double diaphragm boster off a late model hilux/V6 made to fit the landy pedal box (same as this build) VX cruiser master, kz/V6 hilux 4 pot vented caliper front and what ever disk I can find to fit lol Anyway got the side panels welded in, dropped the roof on so I can use the back of the cab to help make a template for a brace to run across the cab this is also what I will tie the top harness straps in to Didn't have enough sheet to cut the pattern (shed mate cut a chunk off the end of a sheet I was saving, so hopefully Mon he will be replacing it) then some cool stuff will happen lol Blocked up a seat so I can see how it felt should be all sweet.... won't be doing the seat box and mounts till I have the motor gear train mounted tho

A wee update.... waiting on bits for the box to be freighted, so the rest of the box is on hold, have received a parcel tho from Rex @ Landrover spares, a set of new seals for the transfer case Also got the last joints to do the front suspension, got a small problem thats stopping me there.... Been over the Off road racing rules and I think with some packaging changes I might be able to make the chassis fit the rules, waiting on clarification from the local club so suspension is on hold lol So decided to sort some of the body, so made up the 50x50 box pillars that will hold the roof and the rear body bar work And yes I have lowered the roof by 40mm, made that decision when I did the windscreen, I'm going to have deeper foot wells so I'm going to recline the seats a little Got the panels cut to fit might weld them in this weekend, then I drop the cab back on and profile the brace that will support it Also had a guy move his toy into the shed, a nice condition SII swb station wagon, he wants to strip it right back and rebuild it with a turbo Isuzu diesel, power steering and a decent brake upgrade, I'll give him a hand with the difficult stuff... means I'm going to have to work out a bolt on disk brake conversion that will keep our transport authority happy on a bonus I can use the same for my lwb when it arrives

Lol Just found a PDF manual for the LT95, was curious about fitting the latter model hi ratio gears from a 110 (around 10% lower geared).... as luck would have it there is a good schematic now this is where it gets scary lol the selector setup on the intermediate shaft for hi low is different mine has a set of 3 dog pins that engage vs a syncro style gear on the normal ones Looking more and more like I might have to bin this case and redo alot of work lol Oh and there may be a wee design change..... been watching a bit of Ultra4, really appeals, we don't have anything like that here (yet)... but we do have a class for winch comp trucks in offroad racing... looking into the rules at the moment might mean a bit of redesign on the suspension/ride height.... lower my chassis height down to 450-475mm and build it with more up travel probably 6-7" up currently set at 4" and add in hyd bumps edit Hmmm may rethink this lol I'll be in the top class with the big boys "thunder trucks" I fit for the sport class apart from one thing the chassis.... you are only allowed to chop 200mm off the front lol Will think on this for a bit.... these guys are 200kmh+ on dirt roads in plantation forest, huge power and huge up travel..... 6-7" and an old commy just don't cut it lol

The finished adapter

Not as simple as that if all he is moving is the axle end mounts then the axle bushes only have so much angle before they bind.... say 30 deg, if we move the mounts closer together this doesn't change that limit If you were to mount the chassis ends closer yes, as there would be less bind causing the angle in the axle bushes But lol here is the compromise the bushes at the chassis are rubber, that means there is movement there, this is what holds your axle pointing forward .... now with the links chassis width apart (780mm) and say +/- 5mm of movement thats nothing 0.7degrees of angle off straight ahead, lets narrow up your chassis mounts to 200mm apart you can have you axle tilt 3 degrees.... now I know this doesn't sound alot but at speed this will make your steering feel loose... now these figures are a guess at the flex on CAD something else to consider is as you narrow them up it creates more leverage on the bushes at the chassis so that could move them more So long as you don't change the height or distance from the axle of the chassis mounting points... no Remember it isn't the shape of the link it is the points the suspension pivots on

After a bit of trial and error I went with these on my logging utes surprisingly good grip in mud for a closed pattern, one of the best performers on gravel and didn't once do the slippery thing on wet seal Lasted really well, only catch when I replaced them (all after 80K) still with plenty of tread problem was the cases went out of round Still rate them as one of the best all rounders I've used

Been busy with stuff that takes ages but doesn't look like much at the end lol Since I finished machining a new PTO drive shaft I might as well get the drive ring sorted Took close to a day to file the splines to mate to the drive teeth, this is the input shaft for the transfer case There is the "new" PTO drive shaft The two join like this, with a weld in the "V" between the two bits and then the whole thing slips over the end of input shaft locating on the old bearing surface on the end of the shaft There will be two bearings holding the PTO shaft.... because I had two bearings that size so thats what I used lol The shaft has since been welded and machined back and is mounted in the mill waiting for me to cut the splines in the end for the PTO dog clutch Got the joiner sleeve done as well And I'm just about done with the adapter Got to take it off and mill true the face that is to be welded to the trans end and cut and true some support ribs then weld Oh the inserts welded in the cone are so I can install/remove the trans mounting bolts

Lol not the best deal those things.... yea they do alright towing but when you have to use them they are thirsty also your looking at no change out of $5000 to fit them with a manual, the Patrol motor loves to tow are good for over half a mil K's and cheap to run and will cost less than $2000 all up including a new turbo Thanks for that Chessy at 950mm its going to be tight but I think I can squeeze a bit into the cab and I'll be good lol Got a SIIa short wheel base coming into the shop next week, giving a guy a hand to restore and add a Isuzu diesel so I'll confirm the measures then

Had a measure up on a mates Patrol tonight, I need 950mm to fit engine, fan and radiator lol.... might end up pushing it back a bit into the cab and the lights will have to move to the guards Width wise I'm all good and height wise it looks do-able from the rough measures So I'm going to plan on it working

Odd comment Sorren I've only heard of good things... in fact I have a contracting mate with a fleet of over 20 4wd's the bulk patrols and instead of buying new trucks he buys up old patrols and rebuilds them the bulk are on over half a million ks and still going... given the grief with the new utes at my work (Rangers, Hilux) I think he is right lol Yes the early toyota hilux diesels were simply weak lol But the cruiser 13b motor that was/is a tough reliable motor I can't see anything LR could have done to compete But remember back then diesels were underpowered and heavy and petrol was cheap.... the only ones buying diesels were the contractors and most still bought petrol because they out performed LR lost out here because of performance vs price... they priced themselves out of the market, they had a product that struggled to do road speed, was uncomfortable, leaked air and water lol was noisy leaked oil etc vs a truck (hilux) that did perform, had car seats a stereo, the cab sealed and they had modern rubber oil seals and was from memory $10+K cheaper... when farming slumped in the 80's there last steadfast market stopped buying LR had there heads in the sand The Truck I plan to do this too has a 202 in it, they were a great motor when fuel was cheap lol wouldn't consider running one now

Thanks for that so I have 780 + the cross member so around 850mm all up Like the last pic... thats a snug fit lol

lol sorry I just worked out where we are crossed up.... the diff clutch packs have no plates that attach to the side gear(what I was refering to as friction plates), they are just one type of plate that only touches the housing.... effectively turning the clutch pack into a stack of shims that is that tall it is binding the diff gears when assembled this has ment the side gear seats are damaged and the housing where the spider gears sit has worn badly too There is no way this could work as a slippery other than for the side gear bearing to bind on its bearing surface If you want I can take some pic's lol

I wondered if that was the case given the clearance between the spider gear bevels and the sides of the holes But with out the friction plates to tie the side gears into the clutch packs it has been running fully open, and with the extra drive plates preloading the gears.... this is the notchy feel, this preload is that great the spider gears can't do anything other than roll left to right, this has worn contact points into the ramps and because of the extra preload it has started to damage the seat that the side gears run on.... all n all not a very bright mechanic who modified it this way Would have been cool to play with but Its F'd lol Found a LT95 box out of a 96 model for $100 so I'll grab that, hopefully the diffs are interchangeable....

Me and dad (I should say Dad did) fitted a Holden 6 and hit the same issue with the radiator... dads answer was to box a recess into the X member for the bottom tank lol In my case I can safely say it will be forward of the grill The basic plan (at this stage lol) TD42 +t motor Matching Nissan auto trans and transfer Running out to the Salisbury on the back and standard on the front but with an ARB (this means the weak link is shafts hmmm) On 31-32" rubber possibly even 33"s as the 4.7 diffs would be better geared to that (patrol runs a 4.1 diff,) so the best option gearing wise are the 33"s this will leave me only a few hundred rpm over the normal Patrol cruising rpm Power steering (turning into a bloody big headache legally) Major upgrade on brakes all round (requirement due to the large Kw increase) Inside the cab, new trans tunnel Fit an extra door on the passenger side (take it from a 3 door station wagon to a 4 door) and fit a folding seat behind the passenger New seats (leather seats from a Holden Callias) New 3 point seat belts Remove the bulk head behind the front seats Swop in my clearanced fuel tank from the toy and do another for the other side Thats all the legal stuff for Cert.... Hopefully in a few yrs they will let me add in coil suspension but thats impossible at the moment legally if I want to keep it as a landy.... if I do the suspension now it becomes a "scratch built" a one off brand new vehicle with a whole other level of drama lol

No, its down the bottom of the country, I'm 3/4's the way up Lol around 16hrs drive away, was planing on getting it transported up when I'm ready Yes length is the major concern