De Ranged

Try the door in the gate, Electronics lol more like electricery, black boxes of mystry plugged in the end of mess of wires.... na mate I'm doing the simple thing lol And here is the ridiculous lump of steel..... a bulkhead X-member There is a little more tying into this yet, I suffer muppet syndrome when I get behind the wheel lol and it goes pear shaped I want this designed to survive There is also a bit of forthought, notice the hole in the passanger side this is welded with a bit of pipe in there so I can run my winch rope This lot will be inside the cab, I'm planing on running an alloy sheet up the motor side for the bulkhead Speaking of that, I've started making the bulkhead frame, tomorrow will be alot of work in 3mm to build the lower section for the door hinges and strengthen the box section uprights Oh and yes I will be adding a small angle section to the box section braces so they tie into both sides of the X member skin

Got the word I've got another month off before the next contract..... so I went out and spent $500 on materials for the Landy lol sometimes there is no point in being sensible, once I got the sheet I started to play lol I'm enjoying this.... love making cool things I can see in my head take shape lol Oh Ian was thinking about the lada and the landy.... both will have just about as much original vehicle.... but in the case of the landy they are all bits I cut off the lada lol Roof, windscreen chassis.... no I just realized they both still have there fuel tanks, got me wondering why I start with new vehicles....

Good to hear from ya.... you in country or swanning round the Gulf Been a bit of a development there.... due to a number of reasons some of them from my point of view very scary! the lada wont be finished it will be going on trademe for a $1 it has to go.... That aside with a little bit of luck and coin spent today I'll have some very cool carp to show off lol

Lol aircon when I don't plan on door tops.... yes it is staying for onboard air Yesterday was frustrating lol had a measure up to confirm the motor is sitting pretty close to where it can sit... pleasantly surprised did my measure up for the bulkhead X member even that is going to fit the way I want with a bit of a mod, right time to build something 50x50x3 box to make the outter bulkhead/rollcage support.... sweet found a couple of lengths that are just long enough in the offcuts pile, put them in the bandsaw.... Now some 75x75x4 box to extend the sliders (since axle and cab are going forward)... na do have a short length of 2.2mm wall... bugger it... its only 90mm long it'll handle it, right need to cap the end some 3 or 4mm plate lol 3/4hr 5 pieces of scrap cut from the scap bin they are capped Don't have any 75x3 flat to do the door hinge mounts or 20x20 angle to do the door security lip, already know I don't have any plate for the X member... but I have found some 4mm plate off cuts so I cut a couple of bolt pads for the rollcage mounts and drill them for M12 bolts.... go to get some nuts to weld on as captives... nope no bolts no nuts lol end result of a whole day in the shed.... extended the slidders by 90mm, cut a few lengths of box and some plates lol woohoo oh and fri drinks pettered out since alot of the boys are heading away on holiday Looks like I'm waiting till tues

Rear drive shaft length and final position is todays job lol I have a few things that play in my favor with this, first the rear diff is going to be a Toyota so I'll use one of the early hilux drive shafts that have the UJ spaced to handle a big range of flex.... second I'm building the rear axle to match my front (custom housing, offcenter diff head, high clearance etc) this means I'll be able to build this to relieve some of the UJ angle at the diff end And the last cool bit is I'm going to mod the rangy drive flanges to take a hilux double carden joint.... with a little bit of work they can be made to really bend (there is a catch people miss with these and that is they are long and need a bit more distance to work) Now this placement isn't final.... since its easter weekend nothing is open lol so about all I can work on with what I've got is the body work so this placement is so I can get the clearance height for the bulkhead X member (all my X members are going over the motor and trans) LOL crazy ideas hmmmm they will come and trust me they will open a few eyes Front suspension will be more of the same 1/4 elliptical.... still undecided on the figures and if I go for a reverse rate or standard (friday night drinks will sort that, got some very smart mates who are love to shoot me down lol see if they can find what I have missed) As for your toy to keep it on classic rego all you require is the chassis as under LVVTA rules that is the vehicle id, from that point you can modify up to 40% (threshold for scratch built where you become a new vehicle) I have a SII 109, that I am going to fit a Nissan TD27te and auto, power steering, disk brakes and modify the body to make it into a three seater camper... I'd love to add 1/4 elliptical suspension but that is too close to the 40% lol will be talking to a few certifiers when I get it in the shop see if I can find one who wouldn't mind the little bit extra

lol thanks, been a bit distracted with other things... one of those was semi sorted today.... so I can focus on this for a bit yay... put my sketch pad ideas into practice lol Had a good mate come over and hide.... dodging a singstar afternoon lol all good with his help we got the motor out and dropped in for a fitting Heres whats going in 127kw/288Nm V6 for those that don't know a Commy motor Got the guard sitting on there to see about wheel placement Think I'll move the Cab forward 100mm instead of 50mm this will help the front of the guards with the front tyres the 35"s will stick about an inch forward Was absolutely pelting down today so I didn't go buy the steel.... forgot its easter friday tomorrow, bugger lol looks like it could be a dig through the steel offcuts pile to see what I can find would be cool to get the bulkhead frame in tomorrow

Right I got a chance to work on it lol..... been doing work stay aways so haven't had a chance to get in the shed and do something for me, but I have a 2 week break between contracts so see how much I can get through Got the Motor/trans dropped off the other day so thats sitting in the shed waiting some action Motor and trans is all good just a noisy power steer pump but I have access to some spares so all good..... 3.8L copy of the buick V6 and a 4 speed GM 700 trans Got the landy into the working area of the shed ready to start The plan was to go back to another project (in the background) but I could help myself..... Out with the some of the bits that are in the way lol And we have a blank-ish canvas..... still undetermined as to how much and how severe the chassis mods will be forward of the new bulk head... since my laptop crashed I haven't had CAD to play on so I'm going to do this the old fashion way... sit it all in there and see where I can place the bits that can move lol I want the front axle in front of the motor and the base of the motor and trans flush with the base of the chassis, to help this the front axle is going forward going to end up with a 102" WB..... the front axle is sitting about where the new axle will sit, I'll use the original for mock up as I have to strip the new housing down Going to move the top of the cab forward 2" to give me a bit more room in the cab for the carp you end up carrying that you don't want wet lol that is why the plasma hit the old bulkhead all of it is going to be replaced with new spanky stuff.... bugger just realised I've got to go pic up the steel for it tomorrow and its sposed to rain Oh well

Don't stress your engine choice they work well... I have a couple of mates running them and they work well but to be honest if I didn't have one sitting on the shed floor and I wanted to do the v8 thing I'd go LS1 similar price to buy way more power and none of the silly little issues for mounting like the factory comp only being able to run with the standard auto You do know the trick with using a 1kz trans output shaft in the 1uz trans to shorten it up, think there used to be a write up on lexus.com this was a while ago that I seen it lol was in a hilux I'm not certain about the 80 series transfercase .... but on a positive note if you got an 80 wreck then you have a good choice of axles to stand up to the lexus Your next option is what I'm doing with my toy, making something else fit.... in my case a LT95 transfercase to a GM trans.... this requires alot of engineering and isn't realistic for anyone short of those in the trade.... as the cost of the machining will make it too expensive (making the more powerfull LS1 a better option) I don't mean to bag your idea but why not a Rover V8, it could be as simple as the stage 1 setup.... don't know your legal situation but over here if it came out factory there is very little stress converting to that.... then if you want efi Mega Squirt it from what I've seen there is a section here that pretty much paint by numbers how to

What transfercase are you using.... the reason I ask is one way to relieve the problem is to use a transfercase that drops the rear output down The most common case to use on the 1UZ trans is one from a 1kz surf, catch is for your situation the rear output is inline with the trans output... putting it up high I'm uncertain on how much angle the defender UJ's can handle but there is an early hilux rear DS that has joints that will happily run to 30 degrees... I just can't remember the model

lol I don't think he suffers from "small male appendage syndrome" and needs to drive them onroad to show everyone he is overcompensating.... they would be for offroad only and I would guess a winter/comp tyre for challenge type events

A mate is asking after information on this company and if he can get these tyres http://www.geniustyres.com.br/pneus-nervosos/genius-ignorante I noticed that alot of your trials buggies seem to be running a similar tyre from there line up just wondering if any of you are using them or know anything about them And yes before you say it I do know they are a retread lol

when I was doing my degree in computing we stumbled on some rather funny sites to do with scamming the scammers... if you have a day to spare run a google search it is really good reading One guy strung out a Nigerian scammer for 6 months, hooked him with comments about being a church secretary and keen to invest church money... at one stage convinced him he had joined a traveling circus as a clown... got pic's of the scammer then made him join his church (made up) this required a proof so got him to tattoo himself lol Another managed to get the scammer to send money to him to cover the cost of converting the money and posting it lol Have had the microsoft tech ring had her on the phone for 2hrs with her trying to solve the problems with my pc so they could connect (while I was surfing 4wd sites) at the end of it I decided to go to the shed so I told her I have a degree and run ubunto not windows and if they were to call again I would waste even more of there time lol haven't had another call......

I go through grinders on a regular basis lol around two to three a yr, they die from hard use, bad luck... I use em hard and on a daily basis to give you an idea I buy consumables in 100 unit boxs This is what I've found I will never buy another dewalt.... even tho it is one of the most robust and best lasting, it also has a nice small gear head to help fit in difficult spots..... the reasons why i'd never buy another is the gear head gets way too hot... to the piont you cant hold it even if your just cutting... next the fan blows hot air out the kill switch this makes it impossible to hold your thumb on it, this is a major safety issue!! Bocsh Blue (this isn't the chrappy DIY stuff) this is some of the best stuff I've killed... it just lasts, this is the brand I tend to leave the grinding disks on as you can really force it and it just takes the punishment, even there cheap base model blue one will handle a bit of forcing with the grinding disk but nothing compaired to the top line model now the down side they are the darest especially the top model one and for a hard use top line one there are better options Malwaki (sp?) only used there base line model but it impressed me easily a match for the bocsh base line but the same price as the bocsh lol Maketa, its not bad but its not good either its a middle of the road good bang for you buck but there are better options Hitachi this is a match for the bosch blue but better price and what I recomend... keep an eye out they tend to do sales specials on these resumbly often Metabo, there grinders are the only thing i'll buy from them they are better than Maketa but also darer... there only fault is they don't last as well as the other brands... oddly just about every metabo tool I've killed has been a flogged stator yet according to the reps I'm the only one to have this problem hmmmm... but the reps have been good on warrenty, but this is a brand I will never buy again other brands I've found if its cheap there is a reason lol the only stand out I've found is a brand of chinese tools brought in buy one of the tool shops don't think you'll be able to get them over there and that is Arge... they are budget yet they come with a 2yr trade warrenty and I've never had trouble with the rep over a warrenty catch is they only do a 850watt So for me Hitachi Mawaki (sp?) Arge And if I luck out and get em on sale Bosch Blue

The CRC brand underseal if sprayed on thick foams up a bit, the only other thing I can suggest is the Heavy duty tetra sol underseal it has a high build rate but you'll need a specail gun and a grunty compressor to spray it on

Thank you I need to clear some other stuff so I can get back to this lol and get it going again....

I'd be very surprised lol but leave that one with me I'm buying a 110 with a 3.5 V8 so I'll have a look see if there is any chance.... why do you want to do this... more oil flow?

Yep Drags is a very different sport and grip environment, I would just like to know as all the books I have refer to it but none explain it The weight distribution is important... I think more than AS% The CoG and movement due to angle when climbing is an interesting one, there is a local 4wd engineer who works on the AS100% theory.... you have no squat there for the rear is as stable as it can be... yes, but you watch his trucks at the trials on long sustained climbs they don't do as well as lower AS% trucks and on shelves or nasty short steep climbs they have a tendency to rear up (as was pionted out above this is due to jacking on the links a side effect of the angle his links are on to get the 100%) and the trucks with lower AS% might not reach the same point but are in more control, this control allows them the ability to pick a line instead of rush Right a truck on a slope your front end unloads lets say simple terms 45degree slope, now half the weight is now being transfered to the back axle, weight is gravity... gravity is straight down so half the weight on the spring it will push the front up The back is an interesting one depending on the angle of the links (or leaf spring) a portion of the rear weight will be taken by the link.... the more vertical the link is the more weight it will push into the axle the greater the mass at the axle the more it locks out suspension, and the worse your axle tracks to the contour better the chance of it loosing grip and spinning, and your Cog got higher Try the opposite flat links that don't take on much weight, the weight is transfered to the rear spring all the extra weight from the front end causes the rear springs to compress more.... with the nose climbing and the rear dropping you feel like your driving up a cliff face but back wheels can track better Now odd thing CoG dosen't move as much yet which feels worse lol The more I think about it the more I see it is a balancing act on the link length and angle with AS% below 100% Now John is going to come along and tell me I'm wrong..... again lol

I can't remember when they stopped here but I think it was when they stopped producing the 40/45 series, I know the floater axle was an upgrade option later in the range, they did go from coarse to fine spline tho Funny thing, me and a mate were talking about this some time ago, we have all heard of people who have broken them..... the odd thing, nobody we know has (he is in the National trials scene) and if you push people... nobody can give a name of anyone who has when I was younger a mate brought a 40 with a blown 350 in it...... he used to do stand still's at the lights in 4wd, he ate gearbox's, snapped transfer cases, snapped diff pinions (axle wrap on front axle) he never did a rear axle One thing that I have noticed is we have similar stories as yours but the funny thing I noticed is when I lived in the south island the near death breakage had happened to people in the North island, now I'm up north.... apparently it happened to someone down south..... We reckon its 4wd urban myth lol I'd be keen to know if those ones you spoke of you were there or you can name names.... also what it took to break em lol Me personally I'm not a big fan of full floating axles, its just so much extra weight, I prefer the idea of semi floating axles like the hilux, but we are sort of limited to 35" tyres here so the hilux style axle isn't getting stressed to breaking point lol

lol had a C clip drop have you.... I'm using a 40 series axle but setting it up with the same setup as the hilux works on so I don't need the C clip

If your willing to do a bit of engineering Years ago my old man played around with systems to clean grain, you get a better price for a cleaner product He used two systems one to take out the dust and one to take out the larger odd ball bits that seem to get picked up, the dust extractor used gravity to seperate the dust We used to run it up the elevator and down into a shute, this is so it builds up a constant speed, then spread it out into a fan so you end up with a wide thin flow you now need an adjustable ramp, then an open area... so you are basicly pouring the blasting media in a wide thin fan, the adjustable ramp will allow you to adjust the curve of the flow you then setup a collection funnel in our case about a meter and a half away The dust being lighter has less mass as it comes off the ramp so can't fly as far.... you will get abit of dust being carried through by the flow of the grit but with a low pressure airline blowing down you can over come a good portion of this You can also separate the bigger bits by putting a lid over the top of the collection funnel, the bigger bits have more mass so fly higher than the lighter grit This will take some experimentation to get right, and different grits will fly different distances so you'd need adjust ability but is a very simple system The second sepperator was just a mess angled about 45degrees ontop of a hooper and pour the grit in from the high end..... I imagine you already have something like this

Why then with the same links, chassis in fact everything the only difference was the holes on the chassis end that the links are bolted to.... one setting hopped and the other didn't ......

Lol a bog standard Lada Niva here is a pic as it arrived I was building it to compete in the NZ national trials series, in E class, but due to my back I've had to sell it... was an advertising project for my business The spec's on it are Lada Niva body and rear suspension SR20de motor from a Nissan Primera mounted between the seats Auto front wheel drive box from an early nissan bluebird with the diff welded and drive shafts converted to stub shafts Running out to Hilux axles that have been shaved and braced Custom steering, brakes, front coil overs etc I have added alot of extra strength to it as part of the deal to sell it as it is now going to be used as a club truck..... but it still is very tight in the cab lol Got to have it done within the next two weeks as that is the deadline to wind up my business lol

Thank you No progress at the moment, been distracted finishing off a mates toy I'm just finishing it off for him, been a bit of fun also given me some cool ideas for the landy lol

i grew up in my dads workshop other than the odd time before he would start a new (major) project there was enough room to fit a car and work on it, space clear to the bench and about a foot surrounding the vice and that was is... some of you might be thinking this is good the catch was that his shed was 16 x 25m lol When we stoped growing grain he moved into the silo so he would have more space 20 x 60m.... he used to open the doors at one end so he would have enough space to work as his work area was the last few meters in the middle at the end lol... it was a place of wonder to my mates, vintage tractor, boats, vintage cars from my old Mazda RX3 to mums fiats bambina, vintage bikes, microlight plane, kitset self take of glider, 8wd home made toy, the list just went on lol But this is how bad it was... I went to build something for mum one day, after 45mins of turning the place upside down looking for a hammer I threw in the towel and went for lunch... after lunch dad walked in and in under a min he had 3 sitting on the bench Me lol I have 175m2, my tools live in a display so I can see at a glance if one of my mates hasnt put it away lol I sweep up every week, the shed has enough space that mates come and work on there toys and I can still work on mine lol

LOL funny to see the number of times New Zealand popped up My list is Antarctica Mongolia - Siberia - China Pakistan - India There is something very..... en-livining lol about being in an environment where your decisions could mean survival Oh and for all of you interested in a bit of radiation poisoning, there are underground tours of Chernobyl just search Utube