De Ranged

I've been watching the other thread, I would be keen but the cost of the freight for me would make the savings on multiple cuttings look minimal.... bit of a person I'm not that keen on living on the other side of the world lol

I survived lol enjoyed it, good fun to do a bit every now and then, keep the skills up... but have to admit the fitness isn't there any longer, I'm going to sleep well tonight Would guess 16 to 20 yr old, mac's, some of them I was taking almost 10m out of the top.... this sort of thing is common enough especially with lifestylers lol they plant trees with out thinking about the care they need, this case was on a boundary, steep conditions behind a house with no way to get a hedge trimmer along... got a heap more work out there for them... Ash gum that over hangs the house and more macs and gums on the boundary

Thank you guys what you've posted has helped me solve the problem.... depending on how physically capable I am in the next couple of days, have agree'd to help a mate by topping a hedge.... taking 6m off the top of a 20m hedge lol and i don't think the body is really up for it lol

thanks Mike, blury still shows what i need.... even without your draglink i can see from the panhard that your draglink will angle forward... as for the box I'll put money on it thats the same as the disco it looks identical the pitman arm is alot more drop than the disco.... mines near flat, is that a standard defender as it would be alot better than the flat one I have any chance you have an angle/level gauge and you could give me some angles Yes please Nige it will still show the same geometry.... it will just confirm, as Mikes is as much a mix as mine lol

if i could do that I'd use the 60 series box I have on the shelf lol.... problem is to clear the coils I have to move it forward enough it conflicts with the radiator.... the disco by dropping inside the chassis only needs to go forward enough for the vertical shaft to clear the diff housing, depending on angle it does have an issue due to a bulge in the lower part of the box think it could be a power assist ram My problem is at the moment there isn't room to fit it with the draglink parallel... to give it room, looking down from above (plan view) to fit the pitman arm sticks forward by almost 2", part of this is due to rolling the axle due to the steeper angle of the radius arms, but this is only a few mm of forward movement .... I am still left with a draglink that is very noticeably not in line and due to limited time in the shed I didn't take the time to measure up before I removed all the bits off the disco chassis lol so I'm left scratching my head if landrover designed it this way lol So I'd like some measures and angles the angle off level for the bump stop flats on the axle (this gives me a base line to rotate the swivel housings when I sort caster, I will be adding more caster than factory... with 35" tyres 4-5 degrees works best) the angle off level for the pitman arm looking in from the guard (steering arm on the steering box, this is one, will help sort the clearance issue) a picture of the steering box and chassis with the axle so I can see how they all relate and an attempt at a measure of distance from the axle tube to the draglink, if possible done in plan view (this will definitely show up what landrover has done) Asked around the local clubs with no luck.... there isn't even one for sale locally I can go for a test ride in and measure lol Untill I can find the answers I've moved onto the body.... started the outriggers for the bulkhead and sliders

Gidday I've hit a problem fitting disco steering into my SII and can't seem to find a local option to view... was hoping someone has some photos of steering box mounted on the chassis... if possible some one able to give me some measurements

Chicken you might be right about older " simple to work on cars" but modern cars lol service dealers have instructions on how to, the local mechanic has to work this out... I have a case in point a logging contractor mate, one of his vans was a VW van be about 4yrs old, it needed a new clutch so he decided to save some money and went to the local (very good rep) garage $7000 later the clutch lasted 3 weeks another clutch this time they also replaced the flywheel (which they should have done the first time and why the new non ome clutch failed) they tried to charge another $2500 apparently what the parts cost was for the cheapest aftermarket stuff I happened to have worked for the local VW dealer so I rang and asked how much to do the job.... $1800 for an OME clutch and flywheel kit and $450 for labour lol I'm not certain what he ended up paying since I have been laughing at him for it he hasn't told me.... but the last time I drove it 6months after all this it still smelled of burnt clutch and the aircon didn't work since they had disconnected it to fit the clutch and I'm guessing they didn't have the gear to re-charge it Now I'm not saying "only deal with reg service agents" lol I'm saying do your home work before you get work done.... some things need to be done at dealers, alot don't As for body off servicing if somebody told me that I'd laugh at them..... if a car is designed like that its resale will be stupidly low and this would impact on sales, no manufacture is going to do that lol well not twice As for the original post I can't say much on the models you've listed I haven't had much to do with them so can't say anything But i will say I'll never buy a late model diesel... the hp and economy is impressive catch is so is the complexity and when it goes wrong the cost is ALOT more than a similar bench mark petrol Me personally, I'm building a diesel motor into my next daily because I want to tow with it and you can't beat diesels for torque, but I'm fitting an older generation indirect injection (no where near the economy of common rail) large motor that is known for lots of torque and impressive reliability, if I didn't tow then I'd be a small petrol that revs

I found more rust that needs replaring yesterday... that kinda destroyed my motivation (that and the heat lol) so I started measuring up all the chassis's I have here SII shorty, SIII shorty, S11a long and half of another SIIa long lol yea..... if I'd done this right at the start I wouldn't have bothered being picky.... the worst measurement was chassis width from 760mm to 830mm, floor resting tabs, the loops that support the floor and deck.... non of them matched between floor and deck closest was the Sii shorty at 0.7 degrees difference now this might sound picky but lets consider the roof on a 109" with a 1.0 degree difference that is around 1 1/2"s of miss-alignment at one end or the other... its no bloody wonder they leak lol After measuring all this two things stood out.... I'm not going to be picky lol about where my datum level is (I've just picked a section of the cabin floor that matches both sides and that will be it) currently got a piece of box section sitting there as a straight edge to measure off Second I'm going to remove all the rear deck mounts and re-weld them in parallel as they were 0.8 degree's out of true with the floor lol

That makes me feel a bit happier Woop as mine is different hights (on a side view of the chassis) to the online dimensions

I've noticed that Bill lol then add in previous rust repairs and warpage from what I've done.... but all that said it is a datum and best I've got to work off floor level isn't an option (my workshop used to be an old pet food plant so the floor is slopped to drain, and to make it worse the truck is sitting on a corner where three areas drain too...) kinda funny when I see these american builds with there big heavy UB chassis tables that are ground flat, I'm working off jack stands with bits of offcuts as packers/shims a collection of magnets to hold my straight edge in place, a couple of plumb bobs and a digital level Been doing a bit of research from the plans I've found on line.... my assumption is right, so after lunch I'll be heading in to weld it in place

Got the front axle under the camper but I need to set ride height for the front axle suspension mounts (so the rubber mounts are neutral at ride height) Have used the top of the center drop section as level with the floor, and there for the level of the truck ... just thought I'd confirm this with some of the more knowledgeable as it looks like the front axle has alot less room for up travel

I know this isn't the right answer but in New Zealand back in the 80's the government had a push for 3 point belts and what the mechanics used to do was drill a hole in the cabin wall, where the door frame and the cab skin double over, then bolt through with large galv washers as spreader plates.... both my truck cabs have these holes.... this was and still is legal Oh and from what I see of the above pic's they used the factory lower mount (which is a person I'm not that keen on to unbolt lol) odd that they used only part of the landrover system.....

Being a machine operator, this is one of the wish list items for my camper build.... but I intend to keep the tank where it is under the seat and put a similar one under the misses seat.... I can understand your pain both of us me and my misses are looking at back surgery in the future these are the options I'm considering A short travel suspension seat.... like the stratos seats http://www.stratos.com.au/Page/ltss-system Or if the cost of getting a pair of these posted over is too much a low profile suspension base like this http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200487876_200487876 These or a version of this is available at most agri tractor workshops and at just 1 3/4" tall is worth considering I'm not certain about all tanks the ones I have still leave a bit of room above the tank i was planing on making a set of new seat box's that cut this to the minimum and worst case trim the top off the drivers tank... just so I can keep the seat low, I sit tall and being a series have a low top to the windscreen lol passanger tank is yet to be made (stainless water tank) so I'll make it as is dictated

A LWB station wagon roof and 2 door sides and I'll shout your fuel up lol or a coil sulsbury rear A bit more realistically I'm trying to find a set of SIII headlight square surrounds and light fittings, I've got a good set of guards but they have been converted to run ford transit lights

When you come up bring your trailer, I have a couple sets of LWB original wheels

I'll keep this simple and quick lol I'm tired I'll use mine as an example... I'm a wee bit different being that I'm fitting a new motor and box but this will give you the idea With my motor & box combo it originally came out with 4.11 diffs and 31" wheels as standard.... now I'm looking at running landrover 4.7 diffs so.... lets start with diffs since I'm increasing the ratio I'm going to end up with more revs on the same wheel 4.11 into 4.7 = 1.14 times so... if 100km/hr was originally 3000rpm it is now (x 1.14) 3430rpm for the same speed If I had gone for the rover 3.54 diffs (4.11 into 3.54) = 0.86 so that times 3000rpm = 2580rpm for 100km/hr Now this is just looking at open road speed, you also have to consider other gears like offroad decents in first gear.... you have the advantage that your truck is running to get an idea drive it in these gears at those calculated revs and see if you like the way the motor performs.... does it accelerate happily on the open road, how about holding power on a hill ?.... remember there will in your case be a bit more drag from the increased speed, and there won't be as much power to accelerate due to the taller gearing but it gives you an idea Lower gears and how they perform are a bit harder to replicate... Since your not changing tyre size... tyres will not cause/solve any issues lol But in my case with the 4.7 diffs I can solve the over rev'ing by increasing my tyre size 31" to a 35" (31/35) = 1.12 so this just about counters the change in diff gearing Hope that gives you some idea to work on

Some thing else to consider.... there is a spline in the overdrive box that wears out, unfortunately my mate that has been dealing with this issue is on the other side of the world at the moment I do know he has bought 3 overdrives (second hand, here in NZ) and all three were down to a knife edge of spline left... so was planing on spending $1500 for the new shaft and gear, guessing he'll be bringing it back from his holiday Don't forget your tyre size.... it is critical to the above question Ouch running late I'll put up some math tonight to show you how to calculate the effect in revs the change in gearing has

The 4d56 is a good little motor, gear box isn't that strong tho, I wouldn't want to run anything over 32" tyres on this box (internals are from the galant car of the same time) the axles are plenty strong enough to run bigger tyres .....bonus with the gen 1 mitzi chassis and running gear is you will be able to run the pto winch a really good little winch these

I would agree with this, the chassis is made from 2mm and from the look of the welds and attachment methods of chassis parts I would say mild steel at that Compare this to a jap coil truck of similar dimensions and weight, say a hilux chassis is similar in dimension but 3.2mm and medium tensile, compared to a RRC with coils Rover made the chassis deeper to compensate (can't remember if they up'd the gauge or not) So yes this will be delt with This was my plan, I have a few rust repairs to do that require surgery.... these doubler plates also keep me legal for welding in replacement sections to cure the rust and they will be fully welded... I know this isn't alway moisture tight but with a coat of POR15 I don't think I'll have any issues for life of the truck

Got given a set of suspension arms and axle tubes from a mate, left overs from a disco he had My plan is to fit them under my SII 109... problem is I don't have any chassis mounts or dimensions I'm hoping someone on here has a chassis stripped that they can measure for me.... Need the vertical separation between the center of the pin on the "A" frame chassis mounts, and the center of the bottom links at the chassis Also the chassis width (outside to outside) in line with the coils Next ones are a bit subject but height from the ground to the center of the bottom links at the chassis Same to the "A" frame mounts Height from the ground to the center of the axle tube and from ground to the lowest point on the bump stop Pic's would be a help too My plan is to keep them a close to standard as possible as this will mainly be a road truck and I'd rather road manners than flex Cheers Reece

I understand the triangulation used to locate the RC on any of the triangulated suspension types (be it triangulated beam axles, or independent suspension) but a panhard system I've always taken the mid point of the panhard bar with an adjustment due to the distance off the vertical side axis of the axle, and that adjustment is back to the instant center of the top and bottom links But due to its offroad handling quirks I've never bothered dealing with its dynamics till now lol There is another reason for the panhard front and that is steering linkage bump steer.... so long as the panhard matches the draglink on a X over steering system this is eliminated (this isn't bump steer due to high RC that is still there) Legally here (NZ) we have to comply with a performance handling test (I could say something about the lack of standards for this test... lol) it is that tough that I have had to fit panhard bars to leaf sprung vehicles to eliminate some of the bump steer And as we arn't allowed hydro or electric steering, our laws dictate steering must be mechanically linked so the panhard style suspension is pretty much a requirement on long travel beam axle suspension Been thinking on my post above I'm not so certain that the pivot point (as seen from the front) would be set by the mass of the body on the springs.... to my original way of thinking, the pivot point will be vertically in line with the CoG of the body.... as the body will want to balance on the springs on this axis But what happens when you have something like these early trials trucks I mentioned.... I'm now certain I'm wrong about the last part of my post, the axle pivot of the panhard will not be the pivot as the RC height will still change due to the up and down swing of the panhard With the short panhard and the center of it now being off to the side of the body CoG and it is the center of the rod that dictates height.... does that mean there is now a lever between the pivot point and the mass of the body ?

Just a tip that hasn't been posted yet If you reach a stalemate and your not willing to give any more.... leave your number and let them know your keen its just priced to high, most take it to be polite I've bought a couple of cars like this.... been rung back a couple weeks - a month later.... one I negotiated him down from my agreed price because he rang as I was looking at another car lol it became a buyers market I have a mate who is the king of negotiation.... he bought his misses a new $16000 bed for a shade over $8000 took him a week of going back before he got it lol oh since separated and she got the bed....

A good trick for confirming where noise is coming from is cover areas with thick blankets and get someone to take it on and off as you drive, vibration noise can carry and come out in odd places

I used to be into car stereos when I was a lad and for all the hype about dyamat especially on the net.... the most effective stuff was felt matting There is two parts to removing sound.... Mass will stop panels resonating, this is your dynamat and similar, but if you want to stop noise you have to stop air movement and that is the "rot-o-mat" felt stuff and the thicker the better.... back in the day we used to use Dacron (sp?) the insulation material inside your puffer jacket, it was cheap, glued well, didn't rot and seemed to dry better than felt but it had to be thick a min of 20mm but this was only used where water was an issue we still used felt... we used to go to the wreckers and pull carpets out to get more felt, they got the carpet to sell which sold since they didn't have to price there time stripping it and we got the felt for free lol Another consideration is the door and window seals.... any air gaps will let noise in and its surprising how much When I get to this stage with the 109 I will have to do some research.... as I'm loath to use an open weave product due to the offroad water issue and condensation when sleeping in so I'll be looking at some form of closed cell foam, the door seals will be changed to a modern car type But there is also the issue of aesthetics, I'm doing up an old SIIa because I love the old school charm of them part of that is the steel and paint interior.... how much can you cover before it looks stupid lol

Sorry for the slow reply been working away and when i'm home my partner wants her time with me lol Thanks for the replies Bill, that sideways motion is the nature of the beast the panhard is a link and as it moves (swings) it will have a sideways motion as well as an up and down motion John, agree with everything up till the example.... I get the impression you are considering the pivot point of the suspension roll center, I'm just considering the height, the pivot point will still be a virtual point half way between the panhard axle and chassis mounts (as seen from the front) .... this does bring up the issue of an off center pivot point in relation to the weight carrying springs, those early trials trucks here in NZ but this is something to go over someother time lol The way I see it, using your example as the body rolls right the chassis mount will move down, and slightly left .... the left spring will expand as much as the right spring compresses this will force the body to pivot on the chassis pivot as much as the panhard pivots on the axle mount Now the definition I was given for Roll center height is the height the body rotates at on the suspension LOL it clicked Thank you John.... the virtual pivot point on the panhard because the springs carry the weight, the point is half way between the springs.... as the body rolls right this will lower and as it rolls left it will raise This fits with what your saying Dan Alright then what about in the case where the panhard isn't mounted centrally like in the case of the early trials trucks here, where they mounted the right side to the chassis rail and the left side to the center of the axle (viewed front on) then in this case axle mount is roll center height ?