De Ranged

As Qwakers said... weld through primer, I prefer to use the copper based one I find it welds slightly better

LOL Reds got it wrong, LC80 stuff is strong enough to handle this sort of HP... the local trials guys are pushing that short of HP and more (know of 1 that is over 600hp....) the standard CV's have a strength similar to a hilux longfield and you can get a Longfield version for them that is even stronger! search Pirate this has been proven on test benches.... its old stuff If you have any doubts search UTube for NZ trials I think you'll enjoy watching There is a catch with them tho... that is the diff at 400hp you are going to want to run the lower number diffs 4.5:1 or less and preferably use aftermarket R&P's another route that I have done is if your willing to do the work the Cruiser 9.5" diff will take these axles but you have to make your own housings at this point you have something that is what locally we'd call bombproof for comp on 35"s with what ever HP

LOL that is impressive.... it took my council 2 weeks to get back to me to say "because of my rural zoning, I do not require a permit to build an implement shed" so two weeks to learn I didn't need to ask I'd be interested to see, I've been reading all the shed build threads and DIY stuff to plan mine.... alot of the reg's differ but different people have different ideas things that I'd never have thought of

I'm with Boydie, I used to and now again live next to orchards.... mice and rat population spikes end of the fruit season and when they finish all the fruit on the ground they took to my shed, first yr tried everything once I realized the problem, poison, traps, cement in there holes took me a couple of yrs before I worked out a cat door to my shed was all it took.... I didn't even own a cat but my neighbors cat or the stray's were more than happy to catch them once they worked out there was a safe way in and out Oh and don't buy a cat go to the SPCA its cheaper and your doing a good deed Sadly my partners cat is so pathetic I don't think it could catch mice.... we have been at the new house for 4 days off a whole month and the cat has only just found the courage to venture outside today for the first time lol the sight of a mouse or a rat would probably send it running back the closet it hid in for 2 weeks

the bullhorn was worth the effort it really catches the eye..... begs the question what are you going to do at the front to match it lol

LOL I really understand that Hows this for a parts nighmare... this is the steering for my lada trials truck Aftermarket steering wheel (cheap unknown brand lol) Lada steering wheel boss and short length of column Column made from tube from suspension link from a holden commador Custom made mounts Range Rover column universals and short bit of splined shaft Spherical rod end mount SKF Suzuki grand vitara powersteer box and universal Custom made pitman Modified 80 series tie rod for draglink Custom made steering arms Hilux axle and swivels 80 series tie rod and a Nissan primera steering pump and finally power steer hoses made from prentice logging grapple hydrolic hoses I feel sorry for the poor bugger who buys it lol Right lunch and I'm off to the shed to do some more on my toy.... Hey I forgot to ask how cheap are mog axles over there lol always thought about doing portals....

I love it all you need is some spikes and it would be Mad Max will watch out for any updates Interesting call on the torque tubes, I would have thought mounting the fwd trans central and drive shafting out to the axles would have gotten a better weight balance for crawling and been a bigger gain than the torque tubes Have you thought about airbags instead of coils could be done cheaply using truck parts or if you want get a bit flash and do it with air rams off old farming gear and would give you the ability to control your CoG a bit... planing something along these lines for my winch truck when I get back to it

Alot of the guys here use the windscreen cleaner scraper things (me included), heaters don't clear mud lol and so long as there is a bit of moisture in the mud or condensation on the windscreen it will wipe it clean.... way better than a rag! Catch is you will want some thing sorted so it can be clipped in/to when not in your hand as the half meter handle will tangle the navi when they are in and out sorting winch sections http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-2-in-1-Deluxe-Squeegee.aspx?pid=215720&menuFrom=1021691#Recommendations Like that but with a half meter handle so the navi can clean drivers side while belted and when you have to stop to clean the outside, they can reach the whole windscreen from one side

That would make sense.... if the housing is cast iron (very high carbon) the plug weld will pull carbon from cast iron and mix it into the weld and due to the heat and rapid cooling due to the large heat sink from the axle tube and housing... so in an uncontrolled way you have high carbon steel welds that are hardened

I don't know about the salisbury housing but according to all I've read on the american sites the american copy the dana 60 has a cast iron head the plug welds are used not as a weld but more like a welded on key to lock into the cast housing.... based on this I didn't weld my brace I bridged it over the diff head casting if you want to swop left to right just cut the short side at the hub flange and the long side at the same distance weld the short side flange to what was the long side and use a muff tube machined to a press fit to sit inside the axle for the long side..... my old early SIII salisbury appears to have cast legs..... there appears to be a seam down the outside of the tube and the internal dia got larger as you got closer to the diff head there is also no decernable weld between the hub flange and the axle tube.... because of this I made the muff tube overlap 3 x the dia and did two sets of plug welds each side as well as a full penetration v weld on the tube.... the tube welded nicely with no odd deposits floating in the weld puddle and no cooling cracking on the welds so I was happy with welding it Dont' know if the later model stuff is also a cast tube but I'd still be inclined to do the same just for good form lol I know this is a bit against the rover theme of the site but what about rockwell axles for this...... they have a vertical diff with a right angle drive that puts the drive shaft up above the axle housing

I've got last yrs speedglass and love it that much I was going to spend another $600 for the latest model (even clearer and better colour vision) thanks to working away left it at work and needed a mask to do some work on the landy so bought a chinese thing called a RazorWeld.... what a surprise less than half the price and that good i can't tell the difference between it and the new speedglass I demo'd.... not buying the speed glass now only thing I can fault it on is the harness is not as cumfy and its ugly lol but thats splitting hairs Got it from the local tradezone... its on page 2 of the cataloge http://www.tradezone.co.nz/index.php?dispatch=pages.view&page_id=46

The LD28 isn't a bad choice with good injectors its very economical and rather revy for a diesel its only let down is its non turbo, its small and noisy in a series.... from the research I did there is a turbo manifold that bolts on off the petrol version of the same block problem was with anything over 7lb boost they ran hot in numbers 1 and 6 also remember something about cranks IMHO not worth turboing The TD42 is also an economical engine, yes it is lol the problem was the whale of a body they came in.... this is why they got poor economy all that weight but I wouldn't recommend this motor in a series as it will require major body mods to fit (see my build thread lol) a Def would be better with the grill further forward but your still looking at alot of work to fit a rad big enough for this motor and if you decide to go with the nissan box your on a short rear drive shaft with a center drop.... if your going to go to a rover box then I would suggest the only option being the LT95, the Aussy military with there 3.9 Isuzu motor tried other options and went back to this as it was the only option that lasted and I think there was some internal upgrades they did as well check out AULRO site they'll know The Isuzu truck motors work well but your back to the same box issue above.... I do have a mates truck in my shed at the moment with a 3.6 version of this motor (instead of the 3.9) and it has a early nissan safari/patrol box on it (MQ series) this has proven its self, is short and drops on the right side to line up with a rover axle don't know if this would handle the 3.9 motor tho, not certain about the 3.9 but the 3.6 doesn't need alot of rad so no problem there We are going to add a turbo manifold off the 3.9 motor and a new turbo plan is to push 12-15lb there's a kiwi build on one of the sites who has done this with real good results One to consider is the TD27t they are a common motor (all the nissan 4w's come with them) they are around the 110hp and 179lb-ft and are an easy fit being only 4 cylinder and have the same impressive reliability as the TD42

Parts stocked or easily got is impressive, now here is a wee tip don't worry about rego number I have had the odd one where this has backfired (think the plate may have been re-reged to another vehicle, the other one is special version stuff often gets a normal reg code here so parts don't match rego) get the full model code including engine code (It'll be on the firewall normally) the reason I say this is the amount of parts guys who wont believe you when the rego number tells them it is different from what you say.... if you give the whole model code then they can't argue lol

Toyota stuff was pretty much my bread n butter when I ran the shop.... Pretty much any of the toy stuff will swop in... there are some catches tho if your running a shorty then you will want an offset rear diff so cruiser stuff on a 109" your long enough the the drive line angle will work, that said I have seen a couple of shorty trailer trucks that worked well with the centered hilux rear axle Next issue is the diff gearing toy stuff has nothing that matches the rover 4.7 ratio.... the hilux 8" diff will give you the closest options at 4.5 or 4.8 the cruiser stuff will run you at a higher speed with a 4.1 ratio Probably the best and dearest option would be 80 series cruiser as they are offset and run the higher number ratios Steering could be an issue as the toy stuff has a greater scrub radius which will require more effort to turn at low speed, I'd suggest upgrading to power steer at the same time but this gets a bit more intense if you want to stay onroad with it I've added a disco box to my series... but I also added the coil suspension so didn't have to worry about clearance to the leaf springs I have a mates SII in the shed that I'm helping build up (been hinting he needs to set up a build thread...) in his case we are using a 60 series cruiser box that came off a parts 109" running landy axles and leaves so that fits

Funny ..... another one, learned to drive in a landy, first car a mini lol My reasons for a landy as above learned to drive in one..... being that they were originally designed to be offroad they have a real... feel, atmosphere lol the only others to have this feel are old 40 series cruisers and the veriations on the early CJ jeep, thats it and to me it makes these just that little bit more enjoyable playing off road All that aside from a practical point of view... (4wd moding point of view) simple panels so possible for me to make them, simple square body shape so bar work is quick and easy, body attatched to chassis (no soft mounts and there issues with roll cage mounts) and flat glass so cheap to fix replace.... basically they are a nice clean canvas to work on with few problems As for use lol I'm a work-aholic with goals I want to achieve in the next few yrs and both my trucks are mid major modifications so I don't do any thing with them.... when finished (lol a few yrs off at this stage...) one will be a winch challange club toy and the other a daily driver tow truck

Anyone..... I'll be buying steel tomorrow would be nice to grab this lot as well

Thats why I'm after the center of the ball joint to the center of the ball joint (the taper pins to the swivel housings) I'm going to make it one piece with a left and right threaded ball joints so the adjustment is done on these threads Would be nice to have this length, as I'll be ordering some other steel tomorrow or tuesday to machine up some wheel scales and possibly some bits for a chassis table.... kinda a bugger staying away with no shed to play in I'm designing new things lol

I'm currently away from home with work and I've finally got the custom ground reamer to upgrade the steering balljoints to a much larger toyota version (need to cut a new taper seat into the steering arms) If someone can tell me the length of the standard tie rod on a D1 I'll get the steel for the new tie rod before I go home and machine this at the same time (can't make my mind up between hollow bar 1040 or solid 4130 will depend on price lol) Dimension I'd like is center of balljoint to center of balljoint please

Funny you should mention that Cynic-al, I just wasted over an hr this morning fighting some chinese mailware that piggy backed in on a codex upgrade With being stuck doing stay away work I've been teaching myself to do 3D Cad.... so I decided to have a look at some of the tutorials for this.... very nice, and simple, but I'm a little nervous about some things for example in assemblies when you mate parts there new way is effectively a one click system and it relies on the software guessing the relationship lol lets just say I see alot of swear words when the software keeps guessing wrong Now this might just be me..... I end I swearing at SW's doing the step by step tutorials as it is lol most of the time its me thats gotten some thing wrong but when there is more reliance on the software and less on the constraints I put in.... I see me having to adjust my designs to work to the system That said I'm going to put my name down for it.... I like free lol

Lol and right there is an example of the difference between some one with a formal background and me..... by strength I ment stiffness Thanks for the dimension stuff, think it might be time for me to scrape together some offcuts and try a few profiles, I bend 3mm in mine and forming a second lip in my press (60 ton) is going to depend on the depth of the second lip, so a bit of trial and error to see how much on the die results in a flat plane and not just a radius..... hmmm I wonder if I play with reliefs, play with the shape of the die.... machine out the female side of the bends and extend the male edges.... this would make the dies more "tuned" to a certain thickness tho.... this sucks working away from my workshop lol I'll have to wait till I'm home to play

I'm surprised by this result...... enough I might machine up some more die's I was under the impression (from comments on OFN) that the commercially available ones that have the lip edge somewhere around 1/4 the drilled hole's size, effectively replaced the strength lost from the hole so the only gain was weight, its why with mine I made the lip size half the hole dia to try and make a gain Did you dimension the holes the same (dia at base of dimple and hole dia) so the lip on the second is just formed from some of the dimple wall ? By the way thanks for running this.... I've always been keen to play with FEA but its beyound my budget lol

Thank you guys thats just what I needed lol now got another three things to try and sort before I go back to work

I need the diff setup torque settings and tolerance's for an imperial rover diff and the SIII sulsbury rear diff... I don't have any problem buying a manual to get this catch is going off alot of the manuals I have both Haynes and Gregry manuals have this habit of declearing the diff section too advanced to be covered lol and none of the shops here will allow me to unrap the manuals to see if they cover this Can someone on here confirm if either of these have the information for setting up a diff gear Cheers

Just thought I'd throw up a kiwi perspective Its not law here yet but there is talk of it.... rim min and max size to be based off manufactures recommendations, I've heard talk that certifiers are already started applying this (Legal carp to put a mod'd vehicle on road) Personally I have found a narrower rim better if you drive ruts or into banks/walls with the sidewalls of your tyres.... the reason is a narrower rim bulges out the side wall more so deflects the wheel a bit better stopping dirt getting rammed in between the tyre bead and the rim.... I have had more flats from this than low pressure poping beads, you will also get a bit more height out of your tyres by running a narrower rim Now the trade off of narrow rims is they wont let your tyre bag out as much offroad and the tyre will roll more on the rim under cornering Personally I plan to run 2 sets of tyres for my camper 12.5x35" muds on an 8" wide rim as my play set and another set (yet to make) as road going wheels will be on 10" rims for the legal side and to gain the better handling The toy (when I get back to it...) with 10.5x35" silverstones on a set of custom mod'd rims, single bead lock on the outside of a 8" rim so about 9 1/4" wide

Bahco or a local brand called Evercut One thing I will say is stay away from those expensive "unbrakeable flexy" blades they come under a few different names.... and yes they really do cut stuff you would normally snap your blade trying to cut..... catch is so long as you don't mind the cut going where it wants. I destroyed a hacksaw frame trying to tension the blade to stop it wandering lol in the end biffed the remaining blades in the scrap bin Oh and get your tooth count right for the thickness your cutting... think it was a min of 4 teeth must contact the metal while you cut (google it, been a while since I learned all that lol) this will be why your teeth are snapping too few a teeth in contact with the work