De Ranged

Yep spot on.... and yes that is a concern lol, got an idea for a bolt on weight as a stop for the far end of the chain just to give it bit of extra assurance it will pull the chain back through You can use tie downs as winches backing them off one or two clicks at a time, done it enough times off the trailer with dead trucks... lol poor mans winch, the reality is the top isn't too heavy, I'm able to move a single rail (H beam) by my self so I think I'll be able to lower down just using the thread through of the ratchet as a friction device... if I'm wrong it should be funny lol Your comments about the bigger casters are spot on, I did a fair bit of research trying to find an off the shelf option and just kept hitting walls with the 1.5 ton rating, only option was a rubber bonded 180mm wheel at almost $500 a corner, lol so I've got some old hydraulic cyclinder tube (192mm dia), less than $20 of new bearings some recycled composite bearing and $50 of profiles and some time

Gidday all Finally finished designing this Gantry... I did say I'd spend more time designing than building lol I've changed the design a bit... talking to people about it I got some suggestions and it helped me spot room for improvements so here it is I don't know if the idea of steering will work but its got to be better than kicking free casters when they are under load lol.... I don't think it will roll well as a single person mover when the load is on but as a two person (one pulling on the steering handle and another on the opposite leg pushing... it might work) I've changed the route for the idle end of the lifting chain... too wrap more of the chain around the drive (sprocket ?) on the chain block and added a guide tube on the idle end of the lifting chain (so if your pulling the idle chain away from something your lifting you can't miss align it on the top roller).... this does mean the I'm going to have to modify my chain block to fit the idle roller inside it I've sent off the DFX files (cutting files) to the profile cutters.... the simple and small plates I'm cutting myself to use up some of my steel stock and offcuts Already started fab'ing it up, got the lower leg beams cut and mostly welded sort of aiming at having it done in two weeks

Can't say if this is any good but I've seen a few guys on youtube doing chemical sharpening using ferric chloride etching fluid... it seems to work

A couple of guys at work use them (comercial engineering workshop) One has the 3M pair, the other a chinese rebrand noise canceling and supposedly (chinese can be unreliable in there ratings) class 5 hearing protection $180 NZD both are bluetooth (neither of them can sing properly and its worse when we can't hear there music lol) got another who wears noise canceling airbuds They charge them at lunch for half n hour and they all run all day and they have been using them for months.... the dude with the buds his have been going for almost 2yrs I'm too cheap, we have a shop radio so thats good enough with class 4 earmuffs lol

Not guite the couple of days to design the carrage and still got a couple of little bits to add.... so I can include a rope n pulley for side to side (or tie off, cheers Muzaz) The red bit is a slightly modified 3 ton endless chain block that is bolted into the cradle where the old mounting hook was The chain will run over the idle chain roller (sqaure purple chain roller top of pic) down and under then up and over the grey roller and down to the hook, there is a safety strap built into the chain block that stops the chain getting slack and slipping around the endless chain block The intent is to modify the 2-1 pully hook that gave the chain block the extra rating (3 ton ) so I can pull a pin and take it off.... the end of the chain that was bolted to the bottom of the chain block is now going to get a hook, this will give me 1.5ton at a faster speed on the endless chain..... if I need the 3 ton I put the hook into a hole just below the top roller and pin the pully hook on and it is 3ton This gives an idea of what I was working to achieve everything just skoots under the top of the two 150x150x7 H beams.... on the 1.5 ton the hook will go up till it is almost flush with the bottom of the H beams on the 3 ton that will hang 70mm below..... that is as good as I can get it and its lowest safety margin is x2 (so 6ton!) All the rollers have bearings apart from the idle chain roller (sqaure purple one you can see at the top) but since its got no load I'm not worrying about it, all the pins are loose fitted to the boss's with grub screw locks and a C clip to hold the bearings of the rollers so worst case its easily rebuildable Now to send off the DFX (CAD) files to get cut.... Yes Ed I have over complicated things lol I hate compromise on my projects

Any reason why your not using the carrage ? Looking at what you do a second carrage might be a good idea for me that is lol

Nope lol I've waited yrs to get my hands on something as cool as this old thing.... I'm not running the risk of this falling over due to a small base and top heavy weight.... not when I can engineer a better option, to give you an idea of how much I don't want this damaged when I pick it up this weekend I have made a steel pallet so it can be bolted too, once on there it will be lifted onto a transporting trailer and the pallet will be welded to the trailer for the 7hr journey home, it will stay on the trailer till I have the crane made then its going into my garrage till I have another shed lol Oooo cool channel love the old K100, I'd love to get one and hotrod it lol that gantry crane is an interesting idea but with the adjustable height that I want.... that would get awfully interesting lol also I'm limited at 3m width as that is the door size if I build For leveling up its not really practical given the 3m wide by 2m deep wheel pattern, but it got me thinking about a simple brake A couple of 10mm plates I'll get them cut and a bit of M20 threaded rod, to lock the wheel just tighten till its up against the steel wheel Oh got the offcut of Cylinder Tube on the back of the bike... I'm taking it to work to cut in the band saw, works one is alot better than mine... interesting riding with 15kgs of steel strapped to the back of the bike lol

Stellaghost your spot on its the get it on and off the trailer thing.... the current leased workshop is about 15kms from home. Plan is move all the tools to my car garrage till I can get a shed built or if not allowed from there to another leased shop that is cheaper lol There is another reason for the crane and its size.... If I am able to build I'll need something to get the kitset off the truck.... fingers X'd Lol Ed guilty as charged, I do over complicate my things, odd given that when I do stuff for mates I generally keep it clean and simple and nock it out.... call it a character flaw lol The "H" beam we had at work from building renovations and they have just been rusting outback.... they have cost me a couple of donations to the social fund lol, the bulk of the rest from my steel stock why the bottom beam looks so funny. Once I've finalized design and gotten our design engineer at work to check it and my calculations over, then I send off the DFX files and most of the plate stuff will get cut at the local CNC cutters..... I'm estimating I'll spend more time in design than building Thanks for the link to your thread Stellaghost I'll read through that tomorrow night Currently stalled on the design I need to have another look at whats under the steel rack to make some decissions.... a couple of evenings and I'll have the carrage assembly design sorted and you'll be able to see what I'm talking about

Very cool muzaz, unfortunatly for me... IF I'm able to build a new shed on my place (I'm trying to sort the concents at the moment) cost wise what I build is just not going to be strong enough to fit a gantry crane too lol why I'm thinking of a mobile one like what Jason has put up Yes I did consider load skates but they are something that has a singular use.... I did consider building them in such a way I could turn them into "wheel" skates after I've finished.... the reason I haven't gone down this path is they can't load to a trailer I spent a bit of time looking at what pre-built options are out there to buy, problem is the market in NZ for these over 2ton is small enough there are only a couple of companies making them (cheapest was $5k + frieght and came welded no abilty to dis-assemble for transport) the chinese stuff stops at 2ton (not that I have faith in there ratings lol look at the one Jason found, consider if the block is over one side thats potentially 2ton on 2 casters, so you'd think they will be one ton rated casters..... having spent time trying to find casters with this sort of rating I'd expect the wheels to be around 200mm dia which they are not lol Thanks for the tip Muzaz I honestly hadn't thought about that issue on an uneven floor (my current floor was made sloped for washing down) lol it could have made for a little drama... I can deal with this easily enough, I was planning on a rope n pulleys across the top so I can pull the carrage with Left and Right with a vertical motion from the ends..... I'll add in a tie off point for security So far I've given up on buying casters lol since I'm planing on a 3ton chain block I want at least a 1.5ton rating/ability from the casters.... I found some at the local wheel shop catch is he couldn't do them with a steel wheel. If you have ever tried to roll a full roll cab tool box after it has sat for a while, the flat spot that you have is why I don't want plastic or rubber So I've designed my own that are based off an offcut from a damaged main boom ram off an old 28ton digger I had 192mm dia heavy wall Rear caster is fixed front one turns on a AXK4060 bearing with some old graphite bushings I had as locators, the wheels are running on a pair of 6004rs bearings in 1.5" cyclinder tube... I've added a steering arm connection to link both casters.... in theory I'll be able to steer this.... wait n see if it works lol..... still got to add in the anchor for a 2.5ton ratchet strap to the top sleave tube so I can raise/lower the side leg to pin them at height and the wheel bearing tubes Currently working on the carrage to carry the chain block The design is a little excentric in that I'm trying to design to use material out of my rack to reduce what I have to move lol

Gidday all, I'm designing a gantry crane..... made the call to give up the lease on my workshop... landlord has put the rent up by 50% in 6 months lol, so I need something to help me move. The low roof means I'm limited in the use of a forklift and while there is a sticker on the side of my engine crane saying it has a 2ton limit, it was made in China and I really doubt that claim (12mm bolt in beam load to hold the hook, in the end of a piece of 50x50x3 SHS that is the beam of the crane) I suspect 2 ton is the failure load rating lol. As it so happens I have one piece of plant that is just over 2 ton an old english milling machine (by the sales brochure its 2 ton without the vertical mill attatchment) I'm basing my design around a couple of lengths of 150x150x7 "H" beam that I got from work, I'm doing a double beam carrage with a 3 ton endless chain block mounted up in between them (for the 3m span these beams give me a 2x safety factor) running the chain up and over a roller Now the reason I'm here is I've never used a mobile gantry before..... I mean a small wheeled unit lol, I use big shed ones at work all the time.... so I'd like some imput from you guys if you've used them before My design brief: Adjustable height from 1.8m over all to as high as I can get it (so I can run things into my garage under the roller door, later on if I can build a shed I'd like up to 3m) Max load 3 ton (weight of a 4wd) Low profile carrage to limit lost lift height due to chain block mounting, hook and sling angle etc Want it able to break down and fit on a trailer or ute deck Max width 3m Some considerations: I want a steel caster wheel so no deformation of the wheel when left loaded When I have another shed sorted and setup I'm only really going to be running this back and forward in one bay so I might design it with a pin to lock the casters " I suspect being a manual carrage (side to side) I'm going to have some issues rolling it.... so I'm thinking a weighted rope running over rollers at each end of the gantry to improve efficency I'm also tempted to try and work out some sort of steering system for the casters, as moving my engine crane around when loaded can be challanging Any issues or advice ?

I love that anvil on the back.... you just can't buy stuff like that now, I've got two 4" record vice's sitting in my projects cubboard that are waiting for an improved fireball mod... both have damaged screw nuts, I'd love to add a big anvil to the back like that catch is it would kill my weld to the casting.... too many projects between now and them anyway lol

I don't know if it would help but I went around the commercial roofers (the ones doing big industrial roofing projects) when they re-roof they often sell the old iron to scrap metal dealers, I got enough good material to clad a 12m x 12m shed and 100m of fence for a bit more than scrap price...... catch was I had to take all the material, that was 4, 6 wheeler loads to scrap and 2 weeks of cutting long run lol

Is that a fast travel lever under it ?

The new work ones are cheap lol. Lots of dust and don't last long, the one that blew I was coming into another cut slightly off, Nothing that should have caused what happened My workshop is the same lol, but I'm working on some improved storage for smalls and consumables etc and the bulk storage will be in sealed containers with desicant (I have lots of it as I need to keep my printing plastics dry) I noticed because I just dump the new ones ontop of the old and keep taking from the top and it was noticably different in how well they lasted when you hit the old ones..... so I now put the new ones under the old lol

Here in NZ 125mm is the most common The choice of 1, 1.2 or 1.6mm is dependent on brand and what I'm cutting (currently typing with my L thumb still healing from a 1mm disk that shattered, unbalanced the grinder enough it ripped from my right hand and bit my left thumb on the way to the ground.... a new brand of disks at work) in my own workshop with the brands I trust I only use 1mm, simply they are faster. At the engineers I'm working at none of us will use the 1mm, even on light stuff lol they arn't strong enough and they don't last I don't know if these brands are over your way, these are the main commercial brands I use (and prefer) Optima, most expensive but the best lasting without being slow cutting Pferd and FlexOvit, expensive, good cutting but last about 80% of an optima Smith and Arrow, the brand I buy personally.... they are reliable (don't break through use), not the best lasting, but they initally wear very well once they get down to 3/4 to 2/3 useable size they wear quickly.... and the are between 60-40% the price of the others and last almost as long as a Pferd or FlexOvit I have used alot of other brands ranging from cheap (Sun, etc) to tool branded stuff (Hitachi/Bosch). They will all do a job but compared to the 4 above they all fall short.... too expensive, slow cutting, no strength, vapourise themselves at the thought of doing work lol To give you an idea of how many disks I go through last time I bought cutting disks I got 600 lol Oh a couple of tips that I haven't seen mentioned in any of the youtube tests.... the older the disks are the faster they wear, I suspect it has something to do with moisture as I've had similar from disks stored near open windows or on vehicles

I wouldn't worry the side loading won't be great (fraction of a ton) your force is being countered by the length of your bar and its your clamping force from the bolts that holds it not the shear Like the design

Damm! a 4hp new motor for $120nzd that is a deal.... here the cheapest 3hp (biggest single phase) is $200 without freight I'm considering getting a knee mill and repowering it down to single phase

Oooo will be real interested in that one....... I got a cheap tool post grinder a few yrs back for the lathe and haven't done anything with it lol

Doing a bit of contract work at the moment so don't have much time in the shed But I have managed to finish off a few little bits Had another go with the knurling tool, tried mounting the tool in the backside of the quick release so I could use the ratchet pin to push against...... it was a neutral gain lol I got more pressure but, had issues with deflection and the extra distance from chuck too tool means I'd have to think about extra material as a "handle" I went back to adjusting height, now I'm aware of how to tune it.... I had it tuned within 5 mins, I'm slowly advancing pressure till i have a good pattern formed then backing almost off traveling a tool width and advancing pressure and repeat Body is 304 with an insert from a piece of shaft from an old Claas silage conditioner.... it flattened off my center punch at work leaving only a smudge lol so I enealed an offcut of it machined it down to an insert, heat treated, then machined it too an interferance fit into the handle..... the only bit I'm not happy with is I ghosted a mark from the chuck jaws onto the knurl when I clamped it to grind the point The piont is a 2 stage and it leaves a beautifull locator for a drill bit, yet I can tilt it over slightly and I can see the point easily to line it up on a scribe Finished making a set of stretching dies for the bead roller..... depending on how you bead roll a panel (patern rolled, the style of the roll's used or the shape of the panel) it can cause the panel to "tin can" where you get a stretch in the panel that causes it to pop from one position to another and doesn't want to sit flat...... If I had the english wheel working I'd run a light stretch in the panel to give the bead some material to form from (I'm pulling it apart to make a smaller frame) so these will do.... I also needed a flat anvil for tipping (where you bend against a sharp top roller) I haven't been able to do that since I sold my old manual bead roller you can see the E wheel frame in the background.... it takes up too much floor space so gets buried when not in use and it wasn't strong enough for the louver press I want to be able to do with it Got one more thing done as well a set of hammer dies for the air chissle/hammer for hammer forming.... I seen a guy making stainless car trim on utube and it got me thinking, I'm going to see if I can emboss a panel.... they are 35mm dia smoothing hammers that I machined a press fit tube for, I dropped a couple of Tig welds on because even a .15mm interferance fit the tube went on way to easily The yellow one is Nylon the black is 20mm bridge rubber Both projects I want to try these on a bit away so they are just up on the shelf till then .... Now back to the scooter lol

After a fair bit of time on the internet.... I think I know the model of Carb and the saw it came off (A Jonsered 49sp - 66e same carb all the way through the range from 49cc to 66cc) so I'll order a kit this week The best option for mirrors arrived in, I wanted something retro and round so but keeping with the rest of the theme.... cheap lol So this is what I got lol they are kinda overkill on a small scooter So I came up with an idea to change the mounting to the ends of the bars and I'll shorten up the shaft so it sits just above my hands So machined a insert bar clamp, I'll cut some triangular bits to weld to the rim of the mount and transition to the stem of the mirror

I like that very clean and simple

Decided to finish off a bit more of the scooter (while I wait on a Panel repair inspection on a car I'm fixing for some one else) So its wireing..... I really don't like wireing, it took half a day to get to this level.... stripping, shortening and lengthening, following (to work out what does what and how lol) and that was just the front section sorted it took me another whole day to get it all done.... it didn't help they did a couple of colour changes, the front half the main power wire is Orange the back half it is dependent on the component.... with a couple of interesting colour changes mid loom just to keep you on your toes and this is just a scooter lol Removed all bar one of the interesting colour changes in the process.... the one I left is the coil, because it has colour cast plastic markers on it to wire it correctly, it was the worst lol power from the CDI is black (every where else this is the earth) and earth is green I even removed the super fine wires that the cheap LED indicators and tail light came with and replaced them with 15amp automotive wire. With the tail light I had to remove the solder pull the wires out of the circut board, then drill out the holes, feed the new wire through and solder to the board But this is what I ended up with Now its just sort the mirrors (legal requirement), re-kit the chainsaw carb that was on this, to do this I need to workout what it came off lol and there are no identifiers. Then come up with a better cable management for the throttle at the carb end, it was just tied on with lacing wire even the end of the inner to the throttle arm lol Then the seat, which I've formed the leather to shape and tooled the back I need to just trim it and stitch it Almost there

Cwazy is right, we just have the ratchet pin that is there to stop the tool getting forced back as you advance the tool along the bedways I removed mine on my little lathe because I champer with my TCMP tools and it was a hassle to turn it all the way around.... in my case the lathe is small enough I get enough tension on just the toolpost bolt

never thought of that (my personal one I've removed it) but the work one has one.... I'd just have to mount the tool on the "backside" of the tool post as our pin has a sloped ramp one side..... I'll have more stick out from the chuck but I can beat that with the travel steady Cheers for that idea ..... now I need to think up something to knurl lol

I tried it initially on these just to see how the floating head would work..... the only style I've used is a single roller style When I couldn't get it to work I went and had a word with our machinest..... a meter of 40dia 1045 later, with both of us trying different things, initially I tried pressure as I thought that would force the ghosting roll to cut.... then we tried adjusting it up and down on the quick change tool height to force the floating head to move and align, but after a few goes at this we noticed there was a similar height that it would change which roll would ghost lol then it was a challenge to find the sweet spot where both rolls cut evenly I'm not going to mention how long we spent trying to get this to work lol when we should have been working.... that was just the start lol we tried differnt dia's different materials, different pressures (to the point we couldn't tighten the tool post hard enough to stop it turning) lead in angles to try and stop the fad out when we used feed... single pass vs multi pass, how fast you advance the pressure, feed speeds and rotational speed, lubrication As for the tool its a non branded version of this https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/business-farming-industry/industrial/other/listing/3831352739?gclid=Cj0KCQjw--2aBhD5ARIsALiRlwBCF4F5wAox4B4tKHdMZ27vN9R3ne8wrhycBW2mgu47WVpx50r8GLAaArTNEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I've left it at work as it is workable if your williing to waste some stock to set it up