Phil Hancock

They are BWA 124 alloys the same as on my D1

Bleed it with the adjusters backed right off, then adjust and it should be fine.

If they are D1 then yes. D2 or D3 no.

To fit a LT77 into a series is alot of work needing a conversion to fit the LT77 to the series transfer box combined with moving the transfer box rearwards, or using an LT230 as well which adds a lot more problems!!!

My 2A has all 3 front seats fitted with inerta reel and has no MOT problems.

Transit alternator has an oil feed into the vac pump and drain/exhaust back to the sump. If it smokes with the butterfly totally shut, which it should be, opening before injector pump does, your valve guides and or seals on them are shot.

MM & AF tut tut, its 5/8"BSF.

Thats also on late(H reg) 2a as well, well it was on one i had.

No there isnt, but a 2a has reinforcing gussets on the bellhousing crossmember to chassis rail that will foul a S3 bellhousing where the slave sits.

It looks like the rear sill section.

1/4"UNF.

Good idea that. Also use brass nuts on stainless studs to cure the rusting problem, making the second nut a long nut so there is no exposed stud will also help with stopping rusting. I used to find the biggest problem was not keeping the flange tight but getting the nuts back off without breaking the studs, many a time the oxy was brought into play, we still quite often ended up removing the manifolds to extract broken studs. Brass nuts did help but the stud still rusted and ripped the thread out of the nuts. I hope this makes sense.:

Try 17lbs/ft same as the rest as they are the same thread so that wont strip them.

Now Khumo MT on the front with a fair bit of tread, Enduro AT on the rear(new) all in good order. I will see how it is with the above pressueres next week end.

The rear end still did not feel right even solo so spring rates and trailer loading dont really come into it. Also all the bushes(red polys) and the ball joint are new. But today i have swapped the tyres front to rear and put the pressures at 35F, 45R, what a difference . Now when you throw it round a corner and straighten out it does just that rather than squirm the ar*e to the outside and back to the inside before straightening out. Before i posted i did suspect tyres but i thought lets see what others say.

Disco 1 with a bit of a handling issue especially when towing, the best description is that the rear end is squishy or squirmy. The tyres are 235/70 x 15" on BWA alloys running at 25F(all terrain), 35R(mud terrain). It has got new; std springs, oil front shocks, gas rear shocks, red genuine polybushes. I am today going to up the rear tyre pressure to 40psi when the other half returns with it as this did help with a similar problem on my works van, but in that case i ended up at 65psi which was the max for the tyre casings. Any ideas out there?,

Series FFR oil cooler is designed to be used as a bypass type so it wont have the flow capacity required for a full flow application.

Hi and welcome. If you fill in the location bit of your profile it will assist in somebody knowing of a lucas agent. But if you are in the Rugby area 'Autolec Services' are a lucas agent.

What i have found is that on disco the right hand 'solenoid' which is 4 wire is not a solenoid only a switching device.

Get a front salisbury from a S3 1ton pre 74 to go in the front, that will sort that.

The bush in the front output shaft to support it on the rear output shaft is also bronze.

My LT230 has the front & rear output shafts running in ball races, thats all my parts books(D1 & Defender) show. Taper rollers(preloaded) yes for the input, idler & diff.

1408 for 7.50 tyres or LWB 1376 is either for STG1 V8 or 1 Ton, dont know which yet. Most likely 1 Ton.

I shouldnt do that if i were you as the oil cooler fitted to lightweights was the same as the normal series, i.e. a bypass type and i can tell you the flow rate for the oil in them is low, the tube is full of wire coils bonded to the inside of the tube to transfer heat to the tube and then to the bonded coils in the air. So use one of them and you will most likely kiss goodbye to your engine as from the introduction of the 110"models the cooler was full flow thermostatically controlled.

Its not a tipper but a 6 wheel 5dr disco stretched behind the side doors. Its not mine but some of the bodywork was from my 3dr 200tdi, its not quite finished yet and i dont know if the owner is ready for a public unveiling yet. It is built on a RR 6 wheel, V8lpg fire tender chassis using a D1 5dr shell cut behind the rear side doors, that is joined to a 3dr rear shell that was cut behind the front doors, then is cut again approximately at the joint to the rear corners, this is then joined to another 3dr shell again cut behind the side doors. Totaly baffled now???????????????