landmannnn

Ok, so not a new topic for defender owners, but what have you done with the two slabs of corrosion attached to your Defender? Buy new? not cheap Find good s/h ones? do they exist? Repair the bottom rail with series repair section and reskin? Repair the bottom rail with series repair section and bodge refinish the door skin? Fit decent s/h series doors? Can't make my mind up.

Depends really. You could sell it with 20-50 in and not have a guilty conscience I reckon. I have seen people pouring in those oil additives until the noises stop.....

Assuming you can find a locksmith they will have tools and patience to dig out the bit of plastic. If you can't find one it would probably still be cheaper to fly one out than pay the dealer to replace and recode...

Just change the oil for "classic motor oil". That will reduce the smoking and make it sound smoother on tickover. Then stick it on fleabay. With the lpg kit it has to be worth £1500.

Phone around all the dealers (franchised or otherwise) and tell them you have £xxxx cash waiting for the model you want and that you are prepared to wait Leave your contact details. Dealers love a quick churn of vehicles almost as much as profit. If they have it in their mind that they can move a part ex when a customer is buying newer they are more likely to do the deal. It is really worth spending a couple of hours making the calls and being prepared to wait for the right vehicle. Just my 2p worth.

Wouldn't even bother doing that. The old rr shocks will be past their best and you can buy new shocks for not much more than £50 for a set (ok they would be britpart..)

Generally speaking the bits will fit, with the following warnings The springs and shocks ratings will be different which may affect ride height and handling, 110's need a stronger axle too. There were a lot of changes to axles around that period on rr's and defenders and you may find that the bits on the rr may have been changed to make it more complicated. Caliper bolts and width of front radius arms may be different are two things that spring to mind. If you can I would avoid this swap around, it adds a complication without any real advantages. If you really want to do it post up some more detail (90/110/v8/200tdi/300tdi/abs/anti roll bars fitted etc)

In would expect £2k to £2.5k with the problems fixed, maybe a bit less with that high mileage. As is will be very low, the engine fault will scare most buyers. Breaking is hard work with so many time wasters and staying in waiting for them to turn up. Lots of bits are going to be hard to sell or even give away. It really depends on how much time you have to spare.

Back up to 81%. I think you can vote once per day, that's what I have found anyway.

So you definately have 4800 gps on com 5. I don't think the SIRF is right, certainly mine uses a SIRF chip but needs MM to be set to NMEA. MM is very fussy first time, you will need to leave it outdoors to get a signal for at least 10 mins.

The PMR technology has got to be the simplest. PTT or VOX (push to talk or voice activated) mean that battery life is less of a problem, actually many use AA batteries anyway. I use them on the bikes and for skiing too.

the freeware is xport http://www.curioustech.net/xport.html

Is your mouse on com5 and is it 4800 baud rate?

Just recently been swapping bits around, agree with above, but the 24 spline half shafts I had wouldn't slide in. There is a fatter section on the 24 spline shafts about 6" from the hub end that wouldn't fit into the rangy case. Not sure what it does and whether grinding it down would cause problems.

Put it in a shipping container is the normal option. The price is high at the moment though.

Sounds like it would be a good idea to replace the cig lighter socket!

What I have done on several vehicles is buy a 4 way socket ` plug on one end of the wire and 4 sockets on the other end. I cut the plug off and hard wire the the socket. I then buried the socket behind the dash somewhere and use the 12v adaptor that came with the device.

Maybe you replace oil seals like I do. Badly.

You are right, they should spin freely when cold and have some resistance as the engine warms up. No hurry because the ambient temperature won't be high enough to bother you for the 8 months.

And to add injury to insult that shop in Cannock is normally more expensive than a main dealer.

Cheers Bish. Looks like I will spending some more money and selling the defender drag link then.

I want to change the steering over so that it has a proper steering joint at the steering box end. I have got the box and the disco style arm. Now the nice shiney sumo drag link (defender) is a couple of inches too short. Do I just get a disco drag link to replace the defender one?

Before changing the steering box, check the following wheel bearings swivel pre load steering column uj`s track rod ends

Tried that. The batteries seemed fine, then a week later back to dead again.

What do you guys do with your cordless electric drills when the batteries die? I seem to have 4 decent cordless drills and about 10 useless batteries, just one good one left. A mixture of 14v and 18v. I do object to spending best part of 100 quid for a couple of batteries. Do I replace the whole lot with a premium brand hoping the batteries last longer? Or do I buy cheaper one and sling it in 18 months?