xychix
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Posts posted by xychix
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Nope, thats what I've been trying, hammering it out with a pointy cold chisel and a hammer.. not a millimeter, bounces right back as it's likely rusted to the inner ring of the bushes.
Didn't remove that dampers yet, should I? Was planning to drop the axle with leafs just enough to place the new outriggers and build stuff back up.
For today I'm done as I don't have proper electricity here
just a good small honda generator that will just allow me to weld and 2 solar panels and 12v batteries for some internet / charging phones. Will have to wait for new sun light in the shed tomorrow.
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Howly mowly,
Decided to post here before I go for the angle grinder at christmas evening...
Trying to replace outriggers at front of rear leafsprings on series III 109 station wagon.
One bolt that holds the leaf to the outrigger could be unbolted and there after hammered right out (with a hi lift jack under te rear x-member to lift the chassis and remove tension from leafs) the other however is very stuck.
The rbberish bush makes it bounce back no matter how hard I hit it. Although the nut came of I also can't rotate the bolt. It rotates about ~15 degrees when I stand on the spanner but it bounces back into its position when I get off.
About to go mad with the angle grinder tomorrow (after I photographed and measured the exact position of the outrigger and additional connecting places for tub and sills, any tricks on howto undo this the non-savage way are more than welcome!!!!
merry christmas to ya all!!!
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I'm considering using owatrol on all the corners / thigh spaces and find some sort of black metal paint that can be mixed with owatrol.
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I'll have to repaint parts of the 110 SIII chassis after some welding, Will also try and paint the axle in the same go.
I don't intend to take the chassis and axle completely apart, I'm actually just replacing the front-rearspring outriggers (welding new on) and will give the chassis a good paint.
What paint do you advice?
- I read rustoleum isn't advices as it doesn't mix with other paints (normally I'd mix rustoleum with some black metal paint)
- I read RX5 requires the steel to be paint free (isn't gonna happen) -
just pressure washed the rear and wanted to pop it back in the shed with nose first... forgot to bring my keys from Amsterdam (700 km's from here)
To bad will work in the darker back of the shed for now and turn it around next time.
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Hey Snagger, thanks for the advice.
Took me several attemps, bleedig fingers and some hard work with a nut-cracker (Not sure if that's the word, translated from Dutch) and a angle grinder to get to the B styles.
Tub is off! happy with the chassis! seems only the front outriggers for rear leaf springs are really bad (thats why i started the job). Will take my time to do a good job and come up with a strong solution the will allow me to attack anything on the front row seats without having to remove the tub again.
Litteraly cut a pile of work in 2 pieces
cut near the wooden shoe.
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Hey Western, mine look a bit chunkier than that. I'm considering cutting it with an angle grinder just behind the B-post and weld that back up later on (or fabricate a few holes and a bracket to join the 2 halves. if I disconnect the front row of bolts in the rear passengers footwell I should be able to lift all behind the B-post out without other major hackin and slashin.
reasons are:
- that the front of this piece seems connected to the firewall with a impossible to reach thick bolt that looks rusty...
- I want to remove the tub without drilling out rivets as I'm not planning to respray the car -
I've got a zeus kit waiting and a new master/slave cilinder. Additionally I've mounted a Hella UP28 electical brake vacuum instead of the engine smothering valve.
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that's good to know. Will look into that. my 1,5 days i'd left are just consumed
getting my big new doors in the shed welded in and make them close & lock proper.... not that wise at all to start a landrover restauration in a shed that still being build
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THANKS! that is the load of info i needed!
...This extends back under the odd shaped fill panel which has a line of rivets down it you can see from the outside. If you drill out those rivets - don't forget the 3 that are close together at the top - this panel will come away and expose the C post. This is more steel welded to the Cill at roughly 45 degrees leaning backwards.
I would love to leave the side pannels attached to the Cill and remove it as 1 piece as I'm not planning on respraying the car for now.
I have 1.5 days left before I have to close up my french Barn and go back to work in Holland, in that case all is paused till ~October.
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Sorry, can't see what you're referring to. That's also a 3-door and you said yours was a 5-door, and the two tubs are quite different
ah ok, didn't know that they where that different. Basically my alu cill's cana are 2 halves (a front and a rear) but the steel support they are attached to is 1 piece. 1 LONG piece that starts in the upper rear wheel arch and has panels popped to it and ends at the outrigger that supports the firewall. Suppose it all has to come off then.
Will just continue unbolting / cutting bolts and at some point it should all come loose.
Likely the front seatboxes are coming out with the tub.
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Will the cill come out with the tub or not?
the cill (alu covers that can be seen on the photo) are 2 pieces, however they seem attached to a non standard piece of steel. Or is that also 'the cill' \
(sorry for these noob questions, not a native english speaker meaning I might not be able to correctly name some parts)
in this video
on 5:37 you can see the steel bar, in my series 109 that is welded to the piece that goed up in the rear wheel arch and on which panels are popped.
on 6:33 I now see where his piece stops. will look there tomorrow, however I'm quite confident mine doesn't end there but is 1 piece (station wagon 109, safari roof ~1980)
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It seems that I have a rail from the rear weel al the way to the front wheel on the side of the car that's 1 piece of steel. It seems welded to the piece that goes up in the front of the rearwheelarch.
Is that default? or a mod done (likely when the 2 underseat tanks where placed.
The alu strip you seen on the picture above it connected to it with some brackets.
By de looks of it I might have to dismantle stuff al the way up to the firewall. or just cut this beam in 2 and weld it back on when I put it all back on..
Other option is to leave the U rail there but disconnect the floor from it and just try and cut the welded connection into the wheelarch and fabricate 2 holes and a plate so it can be bolted on lateron.. takes more time now but the rail on the outsite might also be a nice guidepoint for placing the outrigger on the right place..
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yeah it's off, chainhoisted on a tree
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damn, it's so heavy together with the roofrack... I'll drive the car under a tree, chainhoist it off and drive away. Will leave the roof in the garden under a protective cover.
It's to heavy to have it dangling over my had while I work on the rest.
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I'm working on the front piece of the rear spring outrigger (both sides)
part: bearmach STC8298
At the moment got the roof and sides seperated from the rest and standing on 6 tiny blocks still on the tub... damn that thing is heavy...
I also want to be able to weld on the top part and will do all other stuff I find on the way doing this. That means I might make the job a bit harder but hopefully I solve quite a few others on the go
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If you've got the manpower and/or equipment avaliable, then take the tub and roof as one - assuming it's a 3-dr. If you haven't then it's a lot easier to split them, you can renew seals then too
it's a 109 5 door with safari roof and steel roof rack. (doors already removed)
I will split them then. Do all the work by myself. Have some wooden beams, loads of strong straps and a hi-lift at my disposal
seems a good resource, just hoping my chassis is better
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I want to replace the outriggers for the frond end of the springs on my SIII 109 (1980).
Is it adviced to:
- remove roof and sides first and thereafter lift the tub
- remove roof sides and tub as one piece (or maybe just lift the whole bunch and leave it well above the chassis on a frame)
other approaches welcome, same for instructions and hints on the wires / bolts that are often overlooked.
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They seemed to stop for a year or two? But reappered on the web site again.
mine have just been delivered to France
box is still to be opened. (front kit) -
Feel free to answer your own question then, might help someone else some random day.
Hope for you you find help on other subjects here, welcome
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Mine looked ok. No leaks or anything. It ran fine when cold but got worse as the engine warmed up. Going everywhere at 20mph was a right pain. I got a recon pump and it was fine after that.
Les.
lift pump or main pump?
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Where about's are you located ?
I gladly get the box to the Continent for our friend in Norway - it would be nice if we could forum relay the thing to the North..
We got our metal sheeting from Holland last month : about 1/3 of the French prices...
Is sheet metal that much cheeper in holland?
If you are permanent in France know that I'm always willing to bring some stuff as long as it fits in the back of my Hilux along the other mess we drag up and down all the time
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And, what will you do next week?
G.
on holiday with the kids next week
First aiming to lift the rear to weld on the outriggers and patch the rearcrossmember. As soon as that is done together with a good look at the fuel lines the tub can be back on and the rest can hopefully be a rolling restauration. Not going for showroom condition. And IF the chassis appears worse than it looks now I'd rather know that asap.
This plan was there already for a while. This fuel issue pushed me over the edge.
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lol, the one i just found out today that it's inline (one on the chassis rail likely isn't changed since the first owner
years and years.
Just odd that the problem just popped up and seems to be only on hotstart.
Well decided to go for it, just removed all doors.
- need new outriggers for front of rear leafsprings, already new in box in shed)
- check fuel lines
- check chassis
- place zeus disc conversion
- new master and slave clutch cilinders
- partially new wiring
- welding repair on rear crossmember
- oil leak fixes (swivels, enginge and both gearboxes)
- replump the 2 army underseats fuel tanks. (maybe just with an electric pump to fill main tank or something fail-proof
- All 4 doors need work on the chassis
- new 2nd row of seats (no one now)
- new front seats (currrent ones are rotten)
- new / repair heating
- new switch for wipers
- rewire and fuses behind dash (include fuses for headlights)
...
just a good small honda generator that will just allow me to weld and 2 solar panels and 12v batteries for some internet / charging phones. Will have to wait for new sun light in the shed tomorrow.
Do we want / need another 200 Tdi into Series Post ?
in Series Forum
Posted
YES, i'll likely read it more than once