LandyManLuke

Yup, exactly. If the alternator has been working without the warning light wire, it's been self exciting from stray residual fields, which has probably made charging a bit hit and miss.

If you can get it working properly, it's well up to the job, my 90 gets toasty once the engine is warm. Check that it's getting hot water, and that the levers/wires are working properly, and not snagged etc. The next step is a seperate diesel cab heater (eberspacher, webasto, etc), but they're not cheap.

doesn't do much for rear overhang. I suppose it's a world away from an integrated recessed bumper though.

What you're talking about is often called a 'king cab' after the US style cab on a lot of trucks. You'll have to do something about making/adding a new bulkhead, either using the old rear door, or another bulkhead etc. a lot of people use a combination of truck cab and hard top bits. 'The ultimate' is to cut down a 110 double cab roof, but they're stupidly expensive to get hold of - Ask Will Warne.

I've not done much locally, Kirton (A15 south of scunny), and Manby (Louth), I too have been meaning to do more in south yorks, but i've been trying to get on with building the rangie. As far as i know, there's only BFG MT, Wildcat Durango MT and a road pattern (can't remember who's) in 255/85R16. I'd say Baja claws were OTT for greenlaning, and MTs are fine for play days.

I wouldn't be too worried, I did similar with my cut down rr body, with no roof on (so less strong) and it went ok. The main thing would be to lift the body without squeezing it, which is sounds as if you've got covered with the beams. I lifted the rr body on just two points, with a whole body you should be able to lift from more points, sharing the load out nicely.

255/85R16 are always a good place to start, BFG MT on modulars. You might rub a bit on full articulation, but only just, it depends how supple your current springs are. It's what i've been running for the last 3 years, I do play days with them, and often do 200 mile motorway journeys. 200tdi unfettled will do 65-70 GPS speeds (so about 75 on a normal car speedo) all day.

Memory map uses raster images too. Vector file formats are obviously a lot smaller.

Not if it lasts reasonably, the proper tools are quite a lot more expensive. I made one, but it's quite a fiddle to use.

Yup, I've got the UK at 1:50k, then 1:250k and a few at 1:25k, the whole lot is pretty big!! I only put what i'm planning to use on the itx.

go through the yellow pages for a decent fasteners place local to you. I've bought varying sizes x1 and x10 quite happily at Suffolk Fasteners , they're really helpful and will probably sort you out if you don't find anywhere local.

Incorrect, the position of the solenoid pack does make a difference, as it switches current down a Field winding wire (F1 or F2), back up the other field winding, then through the Armature windings (A) to earth, i.e. using all three wires. That means the distance between the solenoid pack and the winch is always 50% 'longer' than from the solenoids to the battery. Incorrect, all three poles are in use, that's 50% more resistance. On new, clean, corrosion free connectors, resistance may well be negligable. a little bit of dirt or corrosion leading to reduced surface area will increase resistance over time, and that will hamper performance.

I've been running my itx off road (inc round kirton) on and off for the last couple of years. its mounted on strips of sticky insulation foam about 5mm thick and seems to be doing very well. I'd definitely go for a soft mount if you can.

They're commonly available bulbs too, as i understand.

The further you mount the solenoid from the winch, the longer the path the current has to take. Also, connections (of any sort) are a potential source of voltage drops, resistance etc. Personally, If i was going to do this, I'd keep the solenoids as close to the winch as possible, and only have a 2 pole connector.

Thank you Kiall, very gentlemanly of you. Jim, PM sent.

I've got some that look like that! I was thinking about welding them to an old stub axle I've got lying around - proper modern art then!!

Yes please!! Grr too slow, well done Kiall

Franklin are a mile or two from my house, £88.42 inc vat in their latest catalogue. obviously worth looking around for a better price!

Mine's got the bracket between the block and the downpipe - so there are two solutions here. It would make sense that the addition of the bracket would move the hole centres to the 'other' position.

120A maybe, 120mA wouldn't power very much at all!

It's not hard. It's a lot easier doing it before the belt snaps....

Bump! Does anyone have any other type of flaring tool. I can't afford a £100+ 'pro' model, but i'm reluctant to pay for a Machine Mart one which may or may not be rubbish. Anyone used one like this?

Blades fuses all the way.

Yup, good way of doing it have a look at http://www.power-store.com/ and then have a chat with Matthew on here Alternatively, Maplins do a few bits, as will your local truck fitters.