LandyManLuke

LOL, it'd be a shame to weigh it in.

If they're tubela formers. Mate paid £200 for one, with loads of formers and original crate.

good

One of these, Which comes with one of these bolted on the back

The box breathers should come up on the bulkhead, if you have to run new ones these pictures might help. that's an LT230 transfer box though, not a Borg Warner. The hole is there to get access to the TC bolts, yes it should be covered. I don't have Microcat loaded at the moment, sorry.

Heavy wear will show up in the UJ cups, you should be able to find any play if its there. Once they start failing, the cups quite often crack/shatter and shed the needle bearings. you're going to notice that.

Keep running it unloaded and you will.

electric winch? pah! I prefer one of these

That's a bad thing to do, alternators don't like being ran without a battery on them. A charging battery should have ~14.4 across it. above that it'll gas. 13.9 upwards is in the right ball park. an alternator won't be charging properly until ~2k rpm. A battery at rest should show 12.5 ish. Once a battery's been below 10v it will cause damage, it's possible to 'repair' some of this by checking the acid level and then leaving the battery on a trickle/maintainance charger. It will probably never regain 100% performance though. Battery post here

Sounds groovy, maybe i could put off getting one of these 'job' things until after

Trouble is, ChocNobs play a vital role in the design and development process, at least for me, anyway. Will GP spec TR3 cars pass Ladoga TR3 requirements wrt tyre sizes then? special exemption? Within 1Kg? that'll be fun. finals are probably going to be late may/early june.

Grr, right when Finals will be. Oh well, need 'till '09 to save the pennies up anyway! What downsizing is involved in moving to TR3, apart from laying of the ChocNobs?

I was going to say, Malcolm on Mig-Welding has had some pretty good results.

90 200tdi but must be pretty similar, here

Yuh four of them, except bolts not eyes.

I pull my project RR in and out of my garage regularly using a 240v winch. Its bolted to a scaffold pole which is bolted to the floor via brackets. I used 4 12mm expanding studs for concrete, and some ~4mm steel for the brackets.

you can test any resistor by putting a multimeter across it, which will give you a reading of resistance in Ohms. what reading you'll expect i can't say, but what's important is it isn't open (1) or short (0.00) circuited.

If you're using a impact gun you don't even need to hold it that tight. I just dropped the hub into my spare wheel on the floor. impact gun and ten seconds later they're all out.

some info in Steve's post here Has the original push fit on your axle been removed/damaged, or do you reckon it was never there?

255/85R16 run better on modulars than wolf wheels, with regards to rubbing on articulation and steering lock. I've used both on my 90.

Really don't rely on the crimp bolt for any sort of strength, it's not there to winch off, just to hold the end of line. Lewis's spliced loop will be stronger if you ever get that far down the drum (bad idea), and the strength for normal winching will come from BBC's duck taped 7 or 8 turns.

I thought td5 axles came with proper push-fit connections for the breathers?

Worm drives don't 'run backwards' ie the gear can't cause the screw to rotate. I'm guessing Fridge meant the 'hold the load if a pipe fails' flavour of valve.

www.2dmedia.co.uk small enough to care, big enough to deliver. They host LRboards and it's DNS for us.

Jason, go for it, there's very little you can't teach yourself.