pat_pending

Really? Exactly, because this is fairly straightforward diagnostics. As elbekko said, has someone tried to jump start it? There's often a high amp fuse/ fusible link protecting the vehicle, I'm not familiar with the Freelander 2, but 10 minutes with a wiring diagram and any competent mechanic should be getting somewhere.

I think the scariest thing is that they can machine it from a billet of 7075* and sell it for £11 and make a profit. *Allegedly.

Ask the chassis supplier.

See my last post, sticking a feeler blade between the rocker and the valve while it's running. As I recall we used to get all our parts from Allmakes, they did the OE aluminium rockers or a pattern part steel rocker which were actually cheaper and had less chance of failure. We just fitted the all steel ones. It was a long time ago, but I seem to remember the aluminium ones were handed, the valve pads being offset left or right but the steel ones were not.

You can't adjust the tappets on a V8, they're hydraulic and if you mean replacing them, then they should be done as a set with the cam, unless you can pinpoint one individual one that's faulty whilst the others are all perfect. Again, diagnose the problem, don't just throw parts at it. You can run it with the rocker covers off, one at a time to reduce the oil that's going to get chucked about. You'll need to stabilise the idle around 1000rpm, then you can go down each rocker and insert a 10 or 15 thou feeler blade between the rocker and valve stem while it's running. You can then listen for a change in sound at each valve, that should isolate the noise. Then you can insect that particular rocker/cam lobe/lifter for any problems. If doing that has no effect on the noise then it's going to be coming from elsewhere. As I said, I think you need someone experienced with the V8 to listen to it in real life.

Very possibly, yes. Cam and lifter wear used to be a major issue on that engine, not sure if it still is, but... As there is no definitive definition as to what a "rebuild" entails it's anyone's guess what it's had replaced. As much as anyone on this forum likes to help and offer advice, sometimes a problem just needs someone to hear/see the vehicle in real life. I could tell you how to track down a failing lifter or rocker but I'm not sure of your confidence level, apologies if you're up for it, please ask and I'll elaborate. To that end I'd recommend finding a trusted garage/workshop or even someone local on here that has good knowledge of those engines and can offer an opinion, even if it means paying for a small amount of their time.

I sometimes think that this sort of statement should be in big bold letters across the top of the home page. I've not had anything to do with the rover V8 for probably 30 years but tapping was normally camshaft/lifters worn or in the case of the old style aluminium rockers, either the steel pushrod seat was burrowing into the rocker or the steel valve pad was loose. I think rockers are all steel now, the replacement ones we used to fit were. Exhaust leaks are more of a "phut" than a tap imo.

From the website... "This is a direct replacement for all Adwest 4 bolts steering boxes as well as the earlier 3 Bolt and 6 Bolt steering boxes. These do not come with drop arms so you will need to swap over your old one or fit a new one." Which suggests the box will accept both 4 & 3 bolt Adwest and 6 bolt Gemmer drop arms. This can't be the case though as Adwest and Gemmer drop arms are different, the spline patterns are similar but there is a difference in the taper. Adwest/Gemmer arms will fit but work loose if fitted to the wrong box. The fact they seem to be saying this box accepts either arm has alarm bells ringing for me. Their suggested "new" replacement is just the Adwest arm.

Hope you have a brilliant Christmas and a productive new year. At least Santa will be bringing your presents and not DPD!

I like them, I'd certainly use the red function, but...Nearly £100 for two! There's a lot of nice stuff on MUD but I can't help thinking it's all way overpriced. Nothing wrong with current light output, they're just old fashioned lights and I fancied something more modern looking, I thought the later units would be about £10-15.

I'm looking to replace the two interior lights in the 110 with something a bit more modern, currently has the old style glass lensed ones. I'd thought I'd just use pair of the later type with some led bulbs in, but even the pattern one's come in at about £25 a piece! Ebay is awash with self contained led units but it's pot luck as to how they perform. Any recommendations?

https://www.letchworthmotorauctions.co.uk/ Try this lot, though I don't think there's many bargains to be had in the current climate.

I was told, but I can't remember where, that the tdi version of the HP22 had different weights in the governor and a different profile on the roller the kickdown cable attaches to in the box, to better match the shift pattern to a tdi. I've been after a scrap tdi box for ages as I've got a V8 one behind mine and while I'm generally happy with the way it performs, I'm sure it could be better.

Flux are ridiculously cheap on my modified 110, around £120 I think. For my standard Freelander the AA offered the best value cover at a few hundred £. I was with NFU for years until their premiums started getting ridiculous, over £800 for the Freelander! It surprises me to hear of others getting decent quotes out of them, I'm 60 with no claims or convictions in a "good" postcode, I don't think they wanted the business.

My 110 200 Tdi auto can reach just under 80 😱 (gps indicated) on good flat road, although it's happiest around 60-65. 1.4 T/box, 255/85s and a tweaked pump. Without driving the vehicle it's impossible to know whether the op's problem is engine or transmission related. I've found the kickdown setting is really important with the auto/tdi combo, and It's difficult to get a setting that suits all driving situations.

Pat-Pending, from wacky races, he has a "Convert-a-car" that's full of gadgets and can do anything, seemed very Land Rover to me. I nearly chose another wacky races character, Sarge', because he drives the "Army surplus special" which was also rather apt.

Well said.

Turning up, not stealing things and not leaving parcels in random locations, is that too much to ask whatever the pay?

Not been for ages, it's just too far with no guarantee of either buying what I'm after or selling enough to be viable after entry/fuel costs are factored in. The cynic in me also thinks large amounts of the stuff there is from stolen vehicles.

Yep, pretty standard across the hire car sector. Someone's paying though, it's a cost that eventually gets passed onto the end user of whatever goods or services your company supply. We all end up paying for these scams.

I can't see any damage. However, assuming there are scratches, a mobile smart repair would probably be around £45 + vat a scratch, less if they were close together. Whatever they charge you, they won't get the repair done. Hire companies generally lease their vehicles, and unless the damage is significant won't repair them, they just pay a general damages fee when they come off lease (covered by all the times they've charged hirer's). I think at the stage you're at you'll struggle to get out of it.

I have some similar ones, and I had to use spacers to get them to fit. I can get some photo's tomorrow evening if you want.

Sunday the weather was glorious and it was much busier. It has the potential to be really good, but I don't think they know how to properly host a two day event with overnight camping.

What did you think? I quite enjoyed it, although very surprised by how few traders there were. It was good too look round the museum as I've not been for a while. I don't think I'll bother next year though.

Tomorrow/Monday. Anyone going?