pat_pending

https://www.mdengineering.co.uk/lr-v8-adaptions You're welcome.

I love the look of the forward control. If only Land Rover had gone in the direction of commercial vehicles rather than the luxury market.

My mate's 300tdi auto 130 is definitely smoother than my 200tdi auto 110. But how much of that is down to the different engine mounts and sound proofing I don't know. For what it's worth, we MOT a 110 with the sweetest 200tdi ever. The owner says when he bought it he was told the engine had been rebuilt and knows no more than that. This thing just purrs. So as to actual engine "smoothness", it's certainly possible to get a civilised 200.

Good man. Did you receive a reply? I didn't.

As "Richard Birch & Co are valuers and auctioneers specializing in asset realizations We are agents for administrators, liquidators and many major banks and finance houses. The company itself has been running for 25 years" You'd like to think they'd have some idea of what they're selling, in this case probably a poorly disguised stolen vehicle. The true identity of it could easily be found by looking at the vin no' stamped into the chassis, assuming it's not been welded over... And anyone was interested.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284940309331?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110010%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.DISCCARDS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20211102120225%26meid%3D12e78dcbc1e24cdf886d936c8fd7b283%26pid%3D101110%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D284948271895%26itm%3D284940309331%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2563228%26algv%3DDiscOrganicBase&_trksid=p2563228.c101110.m1982 Spotted this on ebay. Has the vin plate (with the top edge cut off) from a 75 ex military S3 109, stuck on a 300tdi 90 on a Q plate. Anyone think of a legitimate reason to do that? No, me neither.

Who do you think is going to check them?

Any responsible horse owner will have insurance, report it to the police. Did you get any photo's of her and the damage? The attitude stinks, but having been married to a horsey woman I can say it's not uncommon amongst some owners/riders. If you think a Land Rover can be a money pit, try owning a horse!

Sounds good to me. I'd try and put in an appearance if I could get away from work. When are we thinking of? My take is that pubs, cafe's and green laning (as much as I like all of those) are likely to fragment the group and distract people from the whole point of it being a social gathering, all of us in one place. Very basic campsite in a good location with the ability to have a fire would be what I'd look for. It's better if just a few turn up and have a good time, than 30 say they'll come and it never happens.

If you have a friendly local motor factors, pop in and ask them for a 300tdi filter and one for a Kia Sportage or Hyundai Santa Fe and compare. I'm fairly sure they're the same but the Kia/Hyundai one is slightly shorter. The Mann filter ref' is WK842 for the tdi and WK824/1 that supersedes to WK8205 for the Kia/Hyundai. They should be able to cross reference those to any other filter manufacturer.

I'm not seeing the cause of that sort of noise in those pictures. I can't help thinking you're barking up the wrong tree, particularly as you say the noise only started after you'd carried out work on the other end. Have you tried running it with the front cover off? Just a thought, might you have a loose or incorrectly positioned bolt touching the back of the flywheel? That would give you the change in pitch when depressing the clutch. I'm guessing here as I can't hear the noise.

I've just skimmed through, and this... and this... Jumped out. The noise wasn't there until you carried out a repair that didn't involve touching the timing belt, removing the crank damper stops the noise. So unless I've missed something, why do you think the noise is coming from the belt?

The subject of cyclists will always be divisive and I think this thread demonstrates why there is no place for "Chat" on here. Before a row develops. Or worse still... I'm tempted to share my views on bicycles.

Oooh, just realised I never put how wide it is! 40mm

Glad to help.

Hope this is understandable. I measured along the top face. Let me know if you need me to be more accurate, I'll have more time later.

I've always regretted selling my Range Rover. However the reality was that it needed work and I had two other Land Rovers, a car and a motorbike and they all needed work too. There's only so many hours in the day so I had a purge. If I'd kept it, it'd be sat gathering dust in barn right now. Sell it, put all your effort into one project and finish it.

I couldn't agree with you more, however I believe the rot set in long before TW2. Magazines articles, forums/social media, the fashion for "extreme, challenge, action" vehicles, along with the business's that have made a tidy sum off the back of it, these have all played their part. Laning may well have taken a good beating, but it's not dead yet. I used to feel like that about GPS, "modern fangled nonsense for people that can't read a map", when actually it's just another tool to use that makes life easier. And as for research, I'd got to the point where I'd questioned myself as to what my hobby was, greenlaning or historical research, because I spent infinitely more time on the latter than I did driving.

I think you'd probably need one of these to get old Mrs Miggins to her hospital appointment after an inch or two of snow .

You forgot the absolute must have... A HiVis jacket!

2l is about right.

I take it you are looking at your MOT certificate. My 1989 110 (that pre dates the Defender model name) is described as a "LAND ROVER DEFENDER" on the test certificate and also has nothing under vehicle category, it's a dual purpose vehicle and is therefore category M1 (if stated). Why is this information slightly wrong/missing? Because as the MOT system has evolved from the old hand written certificates into what is now the second version of MOT computerisation, much data had to be migrated from one system to the other and some was lost or entered incorrectly. On comp' 1, the first version of the computerisation, there were drop down menus to enable us to add or amend details, not everyone bothered and some things were still missing or wrong when the current comp' 2 arrived with less option for editing. Does it matter? No, it really doesn't. Pretty much the only thing that must be correct on the certificate is the vin no' must relate to the vehicle that was tested.

I'd agree. It's not wildly out though. I'd stick some injector cleaner in a new filter, run it for 15 mins or so, then give it a good blast. If you can arrange the re test so you arrive with it hot and cleared out that should pass.

I find a lot of the older diesels we fail have a soot build up in the exhaust, and it's that being blown out that causes the failure. Also, later diesels have a manufactures limit sticker, this states the smoke figure the vehicle should be tested to, this will always be lower than the default figure if the sticker is missing... A 300tdi has a plated limit of about 1.7, and that's what it should be tested to if the sticker is present. If it were missing the default figure is 3.0... Just saying. That said, my tweaked 200tdi sails through at around 1.4. We are always very fair on our tests and try to get a pass. If we can see the figure is dropping over the six accelerations but not quite low enough, we'll repeat the test, If we're not too busy it'll get a blast up the village bypass and back to see if that sorts it. I can tell fairly quickly if there's a fault with the engine or it just want a clear out. Most if not all will do this, on really dirty ones, we fill a new filter with injector cleaner, then run the engine at idle for 15 mins before giving it a blast. To the OP, lets see the figures from the emissions print out.

Some things to bear in mind... It's no good just finding a position with a good pedal. You need to allow the pedal full stroke to facilitate bleeding, and also as the brake master cylinder supplies two circuits you'll have to allow for the increase in pedal travel should one fail, otherwise the pedal may hit the floor before the remaining circuit is fully pressurised. Any experimenting you do should be done with a couple of bleed nipples cracked off to check you can bottom out the stroke. I agree it's not in an ideal position and I've considered alternatives, I've just never got any further than that.