ajh

Take a look at the Dana60 heavy diff covers, that's what you'd use on the back. I put a sewer-pipe cap on the front but did a complete strip of the factory cover in the process and it's now about 8mm thick all the way from the housing around. A rear pinion guard on the other hand is always a reasonable thing to put on, I have yet to twist up a propshaft with a hit, but it happens.

Yes, but this is a 200TDI so either an adapter or the technique described above will be needed. I'm happy with just drilling/tapping the stock sender and I've see others do the same.

You can do that, however for the top you'd probably be happier using a flexible material and then putting rivnuts into the roof spars for mounting, it does not directly address the condensation issue though, closed cell foam glued to the metal, however thin keeps the moisture in the air out of contact with the cold metal. I know it's a British vehicle, but really it doesn't NEED to rain inside too.

I don't recall offhand, some ebay seller. I'd recommend either an Autometer or VDO one and one with the through the dial lighting (I went with around the dial and do regret it, though they do look nice during the day at night they need more lighting which is something I need to address). Their sender is 1/8" NPT/BSP but to make an adapter all you need to do is drill out a stock sender and tap it to 1/8", takes 10 minutes.

The best thing oil-wise you can do is run synthetic, even if not every change it will remove a lot of the crud that builds up from mineral oil, in fact if it has run mineral oil for it's lifetime you need to treat the first run of synthetic as a flush and change out the filter after no more than 1000KM or so after switching (no need to change all the oil since the crud will collect in the filter) and I'd do the first two changes at 5000KM or so max.

I've been happy since replacing mine with an Autometer one that gives an accurate reading.

I had to cut for every light going to the NAS ones but the finished lighting performance is more than worth it, they actually work as reflectors now too and can be seen at night.

It really depends how bad it is, the one I pulled out of the 110 was fine with a few hours of welding and was then galvanized by the new owner and fitted. The one on the 90 I'm working on now was fine from the crossmember to the rear hangers but the rest is more rust than steel so the only bit getting recovered is the newish crossmember to repair another chassis in the future. Keeping whatever bits are still solid makes sense though if you plan on building something in the future, or sell it to someone who might need those bits, you won't get much but it's just wrong for an old landie not to donate parts to a new build when it can.

Just pay someone and be happy you don't have to ship it as well as truck it to get it to you. Seriously, it costs me over 700GBP just to get a 90 chassis here.

Nothing you paint on is going to deaden sound very much, you'd be better off putting down a closed cell foam layer then one of the chequerplate liners. This is one area I've been working on myself for the last few weeks and the addition of a wheel arch liner helped a fair bit as well but nothing beats mass and absorber.

You can also get 1/4" neoprene with an adhesive backing, that's what I used and it gave a very nice clean surface with no room for any condensation at all and is nice and compact above the headliner. I just recovered the headliner itself with a foam-backed polyester headliner fabric that gave quite a nice surface for about 90GBP.

The best option if you can afford it is a NAS-Spec cage and Badger Coachworks hood with the appropriate bits.

I have a couple issues with the 110 rear Safari Equip tank that I was hoping someone could help with. The first is I'm pulling air while there's still 30l left in the tank, any idea why? The other is I've got an Autometer programmable fuel level gauge and it seems to only work in the "middle" of the tank, sits at full for a long time (as expected with the aux tank in place) but then goes from full to empty in a few hundred km and sits there for a few hundred more km... should I be looking for another sender? This one is supposed to calibrate to any sender but the behaviour would indicate there's an issue. Thanks.

In addition to the V-seal that's already on the door bottom? The holes in the P-seal didn't line up to anything I could find.

Thanks, that doesn't seem very inspired, I also ended up with a spare set of P seals about 25cm long, any idea where those go? They could be strays picked up at the paint shop as well.

When fitting the new pressed steel doors the door seal is on the door, but does not go the full length of the bottom of the door. What other seals are needed to complete the seal, right now I can see through about an inch in each corner of the door bottoms, which allows quite a bit of air in while moving.

Allisport will do an all alloy one for you, sized or shaped as you need to fit the space you have.

OK, I've read a pile of threads and am still no more clear on which thread/size of temperature sender I need for a 1992 200TDI (Defender) to match with an Autometer gauge. The stock one is sitting at the top of 'normal' but I know this is about 87C since the X-Fan switch does not turn on the rad fan 99% of the time so it isn't actually as hot as the gauge would imply (assuming the X-Fan switches are accurate). Anyone able to enlighten me or am I going to need to go pull and measure?

OK, thanks. I'm just going to remove the studs, weld on a solid box and fit shorter studs then, and in the process correct for the angle. It'll get galvanized in the process as well since my goal is to make everything last.

When installed, is it intended to sit at an angle slightly? i.e. the tire further from the body on the left side than on the right?

If you're installing a set of military spring-loaded bonnet latches, is the hook designed catch on the wide opening on the staple or on the narrow one?

I was thinking that I could possibly do something like that where the flipped up bed was a grid/grate (like mentioned above) and would act as a window-grill while folded up, would need a 2nd hinged section to make it long enough to sleep on though. Having an internal cage would simplify things though, so much more to fasten things to.

You would probably be fine even just cutting the end off the outrigger and then welding in a heavier end L-bracket or similar. I'm going to have a chat with Alistair at Richards about this, the real solution is to just have them beef up the outriggers appropriately, I've always thought they should just make or partner with someone to provide a good solid slider solution.

Instead of wood why not use something like the chicken-coop mesh flooring and simply attach a thin top layer, would cut a lot of weight and also waterproof and easy to stow on the roof over a couple pins.

Wish I could, over there at least, I know ECR in the US does good ones. Being so far away it's a bit of a pain to investigate these things, I'll be fabricating 1/4" wrap-around brackets myself to get mine to fit correctly, the only thing they're good for at the moment is pulling myself up after working under the vehicle, and even then they shift around. Why anyone would think that was a satisfactory design I simple cannot comprehend.