daveturnbull

Curse you Facebook marketplace and your algorithms.

Yes. Especially when they are shiny. 😁

No, didn't come with it unfortunately. I did get the correct handle with it tho.

First one painted. And a new addition. Bit of a beast this one.

That pic is actually quite helpful Mike, I seem to be only missing a small piece, which I could probably add back in quite easily.

I've got this that I need to make a new foot for (drivers side). I don't suppose anyone has a good one knocking about they could take measurements / template for me?

Got the first one polished up for paint. I think might be the type that came with a Series LR.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/710404907754956/ One for @miketomcat It's only a short dip from Southampton too.

Nice little score today, picked this lot up for just ten English pounds. Should keep me busy in the tinkering shed for a bit.

I hear that Tesla motors don't have head gaskets

Hazard switch is a common culprit.

Apparently this is frowned upon tho.

Wide enough opening for coconuts too.

Not anymore, I've learnt that lesson. I now have a Record No. 36 in service (and a spare No. 36 under the bench).

That's very cool. I like a nice vice, never seen one like that before. I seem to recall we had a vice porn thread before somewhere.

I keep meaning to get involved in that, somehow seems to pass me by every year. Do love a good trundle through Moreton ford too.

Well, by proxy. At the fan motor there are 2 wires, one is a +12v live fed from the ignition circuit, and the negative (or earth) which goes to the resistor, then to the switch, then to a combined earth point in the loom. There are 2 wires between the resistor and the switch, one bypasses the resistor and one goes through it. So even with a bad resistor the fan should still work in full speed as long as the rest of the circuit is complete. In your case, I would start by checking the continuity from the terminal on the switch to earth, then if that is good work my way up the circuit until there is no continuity to isolate the problematic bit.

The resistor and switch are on the earth side of the circuit. You should be able to locate the fault by checking continuity from a known good earth point to each stage of circuit up to the motor.

Those are correct for a 200tdi Disco, on the passenger side chassis leg you can still see where the original 19j engine mount was cut off. If you had a defender 200tdi it would use the same mounts as the 19j.

I'm guessing when somebody swapped in the disco engine and gearbox, they kept the transfer box position so the propshafts were the right length and worked from there. The disco LT77 has a much longer bellhousing than a defender one, so your engine ends up further forward. If you want to swap in a defender lt77 and keep the transfer box in the same place then the engine will need to move back a few inches, effectively putting it in the stock position for a defender. Doing this with the disco engine can cause issues with the turbo / exhaust position, but there are well documented workarounds for this.

I decided against LED and got myself some nice 100w Roo Lites. They are awesome.

Quit trolling

Yes, but with a less butchered rear end. My dad went to see that one and said it was far from finished, couldn't even drive it.

They should just graft a Nissan cabstar cab on it. Damn sight better looking, and probably less work.

So what's the verdict on recon steering boxes these days? Are they still terrible, or worth buying now? If so where's best?