daveturnbull

https://www.defender2.net/forum/post963724.html

Well their website just says... "Bearmach is unable to fulfil your order today" So maybe.

I saw that one too - didn't get a close look as I was being dragged in the direction of the stables by my 7 year old to go and stroke some horses. I did however find a nice little retirement runabout.

3BEX has a certain ring to it...

Roll up, roll up..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/275430280363 Whoever buys this one (Dave, Mike) please do something about those wheel arches.

Any progress Daan?

My local guy is really good, it's the rest of the network that is utterly shocking.

You'll be missing a tyre if you entrust it to their "care". I'd have a look on parcel2go if I were you - just check the restrictions list for whatever service you choose. I've sent them before just covered in pallet wrap and a label stuck on. Can't recall who with tho.

I think it's the discovery bulkhead that's had some 110 panels badly grafted on the outside and a defender dashboard 'placed' in front of the original. And check out the quality of that internal roll hoop. 😱

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/480607450494885/ Looks good at a passing glance from the outside. Just you wait....

There seems to be so much hate for EV's in the car enthusiast world, but until hydrogen gets some money spent on it, they are the future. And lets face it, for most of us the range / recharge really isn't an issue given how far we drive and how long it sits in the garage.

Well it's all back together now with another genuine seal very carefully pressed into place. About 15miles in and it's not leaked yet, I'm keeping a close eye on it tho. The seals are a very tight fit, much more so than the diff pinion seal I did recently.

Thanks, I'll get that checked against mine.

So after replacing the timing belt and front crank seal, this happened. On further investigation it seems the crank sprocket is a very tight fit on the new seal, and is tearing it apart. It fits the old seal nicely. Sprocket is the later updated one with the lipped edges, seal that went was a genuine ERR4575G, the old seal that came out was black in colour and has no part number on it. There is obviously a small difference in the ID size of the seals, but only a few thou. Has anyone experienced issues with the sprocket not fitting inside the front crank seal properly? There doesn't seem to be any other part number for a 300tdi front crank seal, but I need some bits that fit together to fix this. Another thought, does anybody have a spare sprocket they could accurately measure the OD of the seal face so I can compare it to mine?

Collapsed intercooler hose. The increase in revs causes the turbo to spin up, which creates suction on the intake side. I'm betting one of your hoses on the intercooler has lost it's structure and is closing up with this extra suction, blocking off the air supply to the engine.

A friend of mine had a dormouse living behind his toolbox for ages. We wondered what it was surviving on, until we opened the secret biscuit supply up on the racking only to be sorely disappointed.

A somebody who works in IT dev and does the odd live deployment I would never make such a bold claim as that. If you say it won't go tits up, it inevitable does.

You won't get that in the building, but would be good once it's outside.

This beast is up for grabs if you can get it out. It's near Winchester. You'll need at least a portable engine crane and some friends who like picking up unnecessarily heavy things to help. 3 phase, 12kw. Was used to power the revolve on a stage. PM me for details if interested.

I was half expecting the boxes to be made of 6mm plate with the addresses intricately welded on.

Fully functional and at a keen price.

So you know when you've been searching for something a lot on Marketplace and it learns what you like then pushes relevant adverts your way.... Erm..... "whoops"....

Fixed. For £0. I sacrificed an old USB cable. USB is 4 core, 2x 20awg, 2x 28awg. The 20awg's I used for the main power (plenty man enough for the 2 amps they will carry), and combined the 28awg's for the earth (ESD protection). I removed the socket from the front of the power supply and just hard wired the cable in through a grommet with a hole melted in it. Bits inside the PSU are on easy crimp terminals. It's only the other ends inside the iron that I had to solder on with the aldi soldering bat. Not pretty, but stuck. Lets hope it lasts. Being a PVC wire, it's not as nice and floppydoodilus as the original silicone one, but at least none of the cores are touching inside. It's first job will be to replace the neon strobe jobbie on a Garrard DD75.

Fuses arrived. The power supply is fine, but as soon as I plug the iron in the fuse pops. On investigation, the insulation around the individual strands inside the cord was flaky. I had a go at shortening it, hoping that it was just the exposed bit inside the iron that was bad, but no... The other bits inside the iron check out ok. The switch switches when you attach the magnetic tip and the heating element has the correct resistance. Because the 3 pin plug is moulded, I'll need to buy the correct cord for it, can't use just any old bit of wire unfortunately. The irony of the fact the wires are soldered on inside the iron is not lost on me. 🙄