pete3000
-
Posts
1,304 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by pete3000
-
-
You never had that issue with the P38 RR, you'd be lucky if you were able to unlock it and get it going with the right keys.....
. As for ordering up a replacement set for the P38 from the dealer...... been there, tried that, even they couldn't order the right set for the vehicle. Then you had the "fun" of it all becoming unsynced.I've spotted a business opportunity though............. just off to price up a boat load of old crusty BECM's, locks and fobs from P38's and a decade or two to retrofit to the new RR/Disco's.
-
1
-
-
are you sure it's an oil leak, or a factory installed anti corrosion feature
. P.S Land Rover's don't leak they just mark their territory. Besides if it's still leaking there must be some oil in it, init.Coat.......Door
-
Not sure about a pump as you already have a water pump on the engine. you will need 1 or 2 thermostatic electric fans though to draw air over the rad to cool it. if you can arrange it anywhere between say 15 and 35 degrees vertically you can route the piping to help the flow i.e hot to the top and the cold return underneath.
Pete
-
Can you expand on "goes nuts", it may be either optical or electrical fault, due to it being left outside. Screenshots would help. if the screen isn't damaged as such it may be the actual unit or cables. Or if certain screens work or not.
The nav is electrical cable to the rear of the dvd map unit, whilst just about every other major unit is on an optical ring system, if one unit connector is unplugged the display will be intermittent at best. Each connector has 2 leds one a transmit and the other a receive, breaking the loop shuts down the whole system.
The thing is with the L322 vogue a lot of functions are controlled from the display apart from the nav. These interact with the radio, audio amp, the phone, the cd/dvd player FBH, provide display for the steering angle and suspension/Terrain response.
-
well I had not that long ago fitted an "aftermarket master cylinder " which I was never happy with, now I have a genuine girling/trw the feel of the pedal and the brakes are much better. So yes basically I too have replaced the entire system and uprated the components as I went along. Just goes to show you pays your money.........
Pete
-
Parts numbers may require closer inspection, not saying there's anything wrong but the vin split may not like it. If you look on google image search at the rear face of the idler it has a different profile.
ETC8560 vs LHV100150 (LHV100150 has a step in it)
ERR1972 vs LHP100860 (may have a smaller id hole for LHV100150).
Check your vin/engine number to see if there is a difference. As Western says there shouldn't be any washers/spacers.
pic from another place to illustrate
-
BMW breakers M51 engine 325d or 525d (check MY year of engine 1991-2001?), or off a vauxhall omega 2.5d asuming you don't want to pay new.
- 1991-1996 E36 325td (M51D25 UL)
- 1996-1998 E36 325td (M51D25TU UL)
- 1993-1996 E36 325tds (M51D25 OL)
- 1996-1998 E36 325tds (M51D25TU OL)
- 1992-1996 E34 525td (M51D25 UL)
- 1991-1996 E34 525tds (M51D25 OL)
- 1996-2000 E39 525tds (M51D25TU OL)
- 1996-2000 E39 525td (M51D25 UL)
- 1996-2000 E38 725tds (M51D25TU OL)
- 1995-2001 Land Rover Range Rover 2.5 D/DSE
- 1995-2001 Opel Omega
-
does either bulb work in the other side? Inspect the bulb holder for corrosion or broken metal spring part.
After that it may be a case of trying the bulb by the running another length of wire from the becm with a scotchlock through the bulb to the other side of the bulb holder if you are sure of the wiring colours. could be the loom has corroded or chafed through.
-
depends if the have taken their time over it or done a rush job. i.e did they remove the radiator/intercooler to get decent access to the seals. And then as someone has said which seal was used.
There is a quality picture on IRB facebook? page of a timing cover seal butchery done by an indy (the pic of the seal face seems to have gone?)
-
be careful about swapping too much about, make sure you have enough from the original vehicle to retain the reg/ID. Just a thought if you get tugged in for a VOSA check.
-
induction heating? may be easier to build/use for smaller items. Several youtube vids about, some better safer low voltage circuits
-
Which ports go to the top of the PDWA also Ralph? i.e is the 13mm bigger port going to the LHS or RHS of th top of the PDWA. I know the ports on the master cylinder are different sizes to avoid mis-connection, then they go and give you two ways to reverse the circuits at the PDWA.
Just want to check for my piece of mind, i.e should the larger port on the master cyl go to the front or rear brakes.
TIA
Pete
-
My understanding is the g valve is very sensitive to its orientation. Needs to be mounted at a precise angle to function correctly I.e. Under braking.
The adjustable valve that i've fitted just needs to be in the rear brake line. Mine is in the engine bay.
It is, mine is on a slight incline set by the mounting bracket, I have HD springs at the rear which add an inch of lift when loaded (2 when unladen), this is enough to reduce the effort on the rear brakes.
-
bias valve is either fixed or adjustable, it allows a set percentage of the pressure to the outlet (brakes). So if you go the adjustable one linked, you can just back it off so that the locking only occurs a fraction before the front.
The caveat is though, especially with a 110 the less load (weight) you have in the back over the rear axle the easier the brakes will lock up. I suspect though for everyday use it wouldn't vary a great deal.
The fixed versions are fitted to defenders to split one feed from master cylinder and send 32/68 to the circuits as a percentage.
The G-valve is an attempt to automatically restrict the fluid based to the rear brakes. As far as I could make out braking hard and the inertia force wanting to act on the big ball bearing in the G-valve rolling uphill and restricting the fluid to the rear brakes. When the Gforce reduced the ball would roll away helped by a weak spring and the valve would open again.
Yet another variation is the brake proportioning valve found on commercial vehicles where a valve is adjusted based on the amount of weight in the load area, this is done with a lever and a spring which opens or closes the valve, based on the distance between the load bed and the axle.
-
google train horn prank.
I'm sure they are probably for sale on ebay, everything else seems to be.
-
for a 110 hardtop and drums at the back it should have a g-valve ideally from the factory, so the routes are several.
The g-valves new are expensive (second hand probably not a good idea), so you could fit a reducing valve as above which would make the rear less fierce, or upgrade the front discs/pads to balance it out. All depends on how good/bad the brakes are currently.
I'm still bedding my new setup in at the moment so will see if it needs the g-valve(or reducer valve) plumbed back in or change the pads either end for something more or less fierce.
-
That's just a t-piece. The g valve is mid chassis if you read earlier post. The pdwa valve if fitted is on the lower bulkhead footwell drivers side
-
The pdwa is only there to tell you what you have just discovered if one of your circuits has failed. I.e an imbalance of pressure in the circuit pushes the shuttle valve either way to light the light.
They are a series leftover, and not fitted to later 110's which should have the cap with float switch to detect low fluid level.
They originally turned up on old triumph cars and are equally despised by their owners.
-
you can also get clear/adhesive lined clear which is useful for shrinking over printed labels to keep them on the cables and still be readable.
edit: there are also different shrink ratios 1:2 or 1:3 and even 1:4 the price goes up as the ratio goes up, but is sometimes useful if you have fitted a terminal and need to heatshrink afterwards. i.e 12mm will shrink to 4mm wire.
-
I saw a few shunts in Prague where cars would not stop coming out of side roads onto the main (right of way). This was locals on locals who have experience of the rules as well. We were bumped at a pedestrian crossing by a car who decided that because the person had not stepped into the road (onto zebra) we shouldn't be stopping (so neither would they).
Also got waved in by police for not having lights on in the day
and they were going to fine us till they found out we were Englischers, at which point they mutters something and let us off after telling us about lights. 
-
If you have some beefy jump leads you can use these for the rod holder/battery and the other one for the earth clamp/battery.
Gives a bit more control, gives a good connection and avoids burned fingers as you get down the rod.
-
-
or fit polyurethane 2 part bushes, until you can get them pressed in as oe.
Pete
-
if theres no click from the lower dash relay or the starter solenoid I'd agree and go with the key switch.
. As for ordering up a replacement set for the P38 from the dealer...... been there, tried that, even they couldn't order the right set for the vehicle. Then you had the "fun" of it all becoming unsynced.
. P.S Land Rover's don't leak they just mark their territory. Besides if it's still leaking there must be some oil in it, init.
and they were going to fine us till they found out we were Englischers, at which point they mutters something and let us off after telling us about lights. 
101 Front Door Key
in Military Forum
Posted
As above, should be a lift up series door barrel, don't be tempted to destroy the old barrel by twisting with a screwdriver as you will break the over centre spring.
Careful application of a 5mm hss bit and pick the bits out with a screwdriver. Don't forget to do the other 1 or 2 if you are picky like me, or you'll end up with many keys.