pete3000
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Posts posted by pete3000
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If you look at the second item ID from my post it's the same photos you found Mav, item was bought but never shipped? buyer left negative feedback.
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ebay 301613367027 1997 chassis? looks brand new chassis not a spot of rust.
Edit viewed feedback exact? same chassis not shipped according to feedback, for a 2004 tdci chassis photo look familiar? item id 301625498751
And the company number is for a Kebab shop?
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ebay item 261893477741 ?
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island4x4 have them for £33 ex vat
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if you apply for a change of reg keeper, a letter will be sent to former keeper, yes? If he then subsequently contacts you, you can reunite him with his property or if he chooses not to you can sell to recover your costs. It probably hasn't been declared sorn? in which case isn't insured and so you'd be doing him a favour by taking ownership and declaring it off road.
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If you are sticking a lot of kit in it, then I'd personally prefer the earlier stub axles and older axle casing as the bearings are wider spaced. In my mind it's better for high loads. Most expensive bits are the front hubs, caliper brackets and the calipers, shop around for these, as prices vary widely.
Pete
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basically a disco then with a RR transfer box. Didn't know they made Disco's in 1967???
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ntc2017? guard esr 2204
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take one of the a frame bolts out of the chassis and use the half of the aframe as a lever to give it a twist? to break the rust around one half?
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One last thought for now, you haven't clamped you stainless flexis at any point have you? I ditched my braided stainless hoses and went back to standard after I found the stainless hoses utterly useless.
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Yes the bearings on the stub axles should be a sliding fit, i.e no detectable play, the washers are different front to back.
The front stub has a slot cut in and uses a thick G shaped washer, then a nut/lockwasher then another nut.
Depending on the year pre 300tdi The rear on the 110 uses a flat profile washer FRC8227 which runs onto the bearing and the oil seal then a tab washer, nut, lockwasher, and another nut.
Check if you have the spacer, depending on your age of axle/stub axles.
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RRC8443 any good? fits either side, off the wolf to see round the side mounted spare. Means you retain the ability to fold mirrors in and use same type of head or spafax.
These occasionally pop up, you don't have to use the heated part, although 12v may offer some demisting rather than ice clearing
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Nice, glad to hear you got it sorted and thanks for lettiing us know the fix.
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Don't leave the bearings tight, if they don't run freely once you have taken the slack out (by backing them off at least a flat) you will have real trouble with heat expansion and poss stub axle damage. I'd suggest if you have one corner really poor renew the offending bearings making sure the races and the seats are super clean and damage free before you press the bearings in, don't excessivley grease the bearings. The calipers never sit exactly bang on central, at least in my experience 1-1.5mm is what I have found.
The play should be very slight(barely detectable), obviously with the brakes hard on, the disc is held solid between the caliper so you won't get an idea of what it's like, hence back off the pads and test it with a lever to shift the weight of the wheel, the hub and the brakes.
Stupid question but which washers are you using on your stub axles, any chance of some photos. Front's are different to rears and vary a bit.
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Sounds like a bush has collapsed or bolt on you rear trailing arm, if it's only after you have stopped and pull away again.
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have you ever had both keys working as key1/key2? Sounds like the procedure to learn key 2 needs to be gone over with the dealer, as you are only learning key 1 then replacing key 1.
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As described above you need a lever of some sort to lift the weight of the wheel/brakes/hub to detect the play either a long pry bar, length of 2x3 or a trolley jack handle.
If you take the brake pads out or push them back a touch, then with the wheel still on jack the vehicle corner around 2-3 inches up off the floor, lift the wheel up with the lever underneath to raise the wheel. any clunking or knocking is potentially play or bearing issues.
Pete
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Sorry for ignorance, but what is the vacuum pump driven by on these engines?
mechanical plunger pump driven off cam on engine crankcase, so low revs affects vacuum build up?
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Two ideas, could the rough roads have settled out any small air bubbles, may be worth a mini bleed? once it's settled down. Or if it is worse after cornering then you may have a leak on a flexible pipe or a leak from the casting on the caliper. I had a leak from my NSF caliper out of the box new. Look for spray round the wheel/tyre in dry weather.
If the wheel bearing is a worry and you can get it checked it's worth doing, you may notice one wheel hub outside by nuts is hotter than the other after a few miles without hammering the brakes. Don't check after hammering the brakes as you'll get burned fingers.
P.S Read RA's thread after posting, usually tighten my bearing's up by over tightening a bit to "settle" the race and pull in any final clearances then, back off by 1 nut flat, before lock washering. Check again after 1000 miles.
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Is there any other rear wiper motor from another vehicle that will fit into the rear door?
New ones are £50/60/70 +
Or has anyone here got one for sale? I would need p+p to N.Ireland. PM me please.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=55437&hl=%2Brear+%2Bwiper#entry799429
Pete
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Do you think that this is a better option than tracking down a 300tdi axle with disk brakes and swapping the lot?
For me keeping the axles was key, after swapping the engine and gearbox you need enough parts from original vehicle. I've still got the front and rear axles, both uprated now it's running the 300tdi.
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That ebay link leads to an ignition barrel.......
I assume that is a mistake and not the same as the door locks.
Am I right with part number MTC6503.
MTC, RTC, MUC, RRC etc is a newer part number, I found 395141 which is a more series esque number along with ESR ERR etc.
edit: looks like it will fit though.....
Pete
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Not sure if the P38 was technically advanced enough (only 9 computers LOL) but the iso loom for the radio on newish cars has a speed sense input pin. Technically the faster you go the louder the radio gets, and vice versa.
Can you remove the radio and try the speedo? as Hoss says is the radio working?
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or just buy the complete balljoint assembly, unbolt the 2 bolts through the sides, one from the big nut and bolt it back up?
New anti theft.....mud
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