Mark

Just read your other thread, I have had exactly the same situation (although after I did the head gasket on my 65k mile jap import 300tdi EDC discovery I discovered the head was cracked, and had to do it all over again...) I found it needed to be bled really well, and you pretty much have to follow the order in the haynes manual twice to get it to fire. the chamber at the top of the fuel pump is where the air seems to accumulate... good luck Mark

Taking the head off shouldn't affect the timing... Are you sure you have bled the fuel system completely? There is a chamber on the fuel pump that likes to airlock, so needs to be bled, as well as the fuel fliter, and then finally the injectors. This should all be done using the manual lift pump. I found that just cracking the injector pipes and turning it over till they were wet was not nearly enough to bleed it properly. just a thought, Mark

It may also be an effect of loosing te self centreing on the steering as you have lost some of you castor on the front axle. Again there are ways around this, by fitting castor corrected radius arms or bushes, or by clocking the swivels. it's worth doing a search on all of this stuff as it is covered in some depth... hth Mark

No I havn't, but I am starting to shy away from non gen/OEM stuff... Local dealer has one in stock, so I will grab that and see if it fixes it...

Does this sound right? YBE100540 SPEED TRANSDUCER 90/110 V8 DISCO 1 95 ON £37.30 Seems a little pricey-er than I was expecting...

Anyone got a linke to the foutrak/ka build up thread if one exists? can't seem to find it on difflock...

Oooh... build threads... I like those. The rav looks cool, but fabbing a chassis, and suspension setup is way beyond what I am planning for now...

Dragging this to the top again, as my speedo was playing up this morning on the drive to work, followed by it not working at all... is it a question of rplaceing the senso, or just cleaning up the connections? anyone got a part number for the sensor? ta Mark

The freelander floorpan has good boxy sills running down the outside, and two very similar box sections running parallel, further into the car. These inner box sections are far enough apart to let a discovery chassis sit up in between them (with about 15mm clearence either side), and so my thoughts were to take the transmission tunnel out between these rails, and add RR/disco style bodymounts to the freelander sills. The front and rear inner wings can then be removed completely, although I would like to keep the rear floor and utliise the freebie fueltank... This line of thinking cam from lying underneath the Mrs's freelander with a tapemeasure, and comparing the discovery I had parked next to it... very useful! These are very similar to my thoughts, but by buying one with a blown engine it should be cheaper than buying a good one...

Still looking jules, really after a complete as possible shell, but would be interested whatever you have - collection from poole shouldn't be a big problem... Cheers Mark

I have seen the ka on the fourtrak chassis, and it rather tickled me... I will have to have a look on difflock. ta. I am not really convinced you need to recess the chassis into the shell - have you looked underneath a freelander shell Ross?

Not rally sure how feasible that would be... The wheel arches are very cramped on the FL shell, as it also has all the suspension mountings - moving the suspension mountings onto the chassis means you can open out the inner arches to get decent sizes tyres in there on full bump. Also with the engine mounted the wrong way round, there would need to be some major structural work go into mounting a 200 in there... incidentally, do you have any more pix of you truck?

That is exactly my intention - to the letter..... Space frame would be cool, but I am looking to use the entire shell, so it shouldn't have rigidity issues, being already a monococque that I am going to then bolt to a chassis...

Been doing a little more digging. The Free Ranger is actually another spaceframe construction with freelander panels on, much the same as the D-Lander form North Offroad. Not found anything related to using a complete shell and mounting that up yet... Still on the lookout for a donor freelander though...

The MoT man will not be worried to be honest.

Indeed, and I cannot find much information about it at all...

I would be inclined to give simmonites a ring and see what they say? I'm sure I have seen them fitted to 109's...

Simmonites sell them for series vehicles: plastic arches hth Mark

that would explain it...

I got my series seats from BLRS, but that was about 8 years ago now. As has been said, not quite as nice as exmoor, but a fraction of the price too... can't seem to find a website for them though...

It's also work checking the screws that hold the door latch in place - there are two - they work loose, and sometimes just need tightening up. On my second go of doing this I added a bit of threadlock as well, and they have been fine since. Be careful thought, as it is relativly easy to strip the thread in the latch... hth Mark

Miketomcat has a couple of rangerover axles for sale in the for sale section. D1 and Rangey axles are pretty much identical... hth Mark

John, it's not off topic in here... I would go for hamerite or something similar to be honest...

There are some fairly economic ways of running 3 phase kit off a single phase supply, so if space is not an issue, then you may well be better off looking for a secondhand industrial machine and an inverter. What sort of stuff is he going to want to do on it? Mark

Can't add too much more than what Simon has said, other than they are often advertised privately on homeworkshop.org.uk or if you would prefer to buy from a dealer, I have had good service from home and workshop machinery but they certainly are not the cheapest way to do it. To add, Si has a super7 and I have an ML7, and can recomend either. if 3 phase and a bit of space is available then you have a really wide choice really nice machinery at a reasonable price. Cheers Mark