Mark

Grant, Talk to Turners, as they keep all of this sort of stuff on the shelf and are quick and easy to deal with. They were also cheaper than some I have used in the past, certainly for head bolts and the like... No connection, just a satisfied customer Cheers Mark

I did think about suggesting that.... It would certainly bring about the opportunity to try another motor sooner....

My Discovery one, and the one we fitted to Orange's rangie were the same as has already been described - two holes, hold in place and drill trough the gutter. Bolts were fitted upside down, ie the nuts were on the top, so that the door would still close. hth Mark

Adrian's frame of reference comes from doing challenges in my Discovery with my 8074 with a 4.6 HP Warn 8274-50 Motor. The winch is not super scarily fast, but there is a real marked difference between the two. Personally, I would go for an 8274 (well, and 8074 actually.. ) on the front, and use the ep9 on the rear.

We have Land Rover Bikes, and we have been really pleased with them. Mine is a Defender Kanaha and Sam's is one of the Discovery models.... we got them from our local bike shop, nothing to do with the badge (honest) tey were the best value at the time - about 3 years ago. Not had any problems with them so far... Mark

As Chris says, I think that would be far less hassle. There are a couple of people in the UK who would sell me the handles I wanted, none of which did online ordering, and all of which wanted upwards of £40 each for those specific handles. Having seen the ones Chris got, that would seem to be far easier. Chris, Have you got any further with the drawers on the trailer? Cheers Mark.

I have been climbing up there several times, most recently last November, but I didn't realise there was driving round there. It is very popular with climbers and walkers, so I am not surprised at the level of erosion.

Made some progress on the drawers over the easter weekend, in between the snow showers.... First job was to finish dressing all the welds back to ensure there was enough clearance inside for the drawers to run, and all the panels to fit properly. Once that was done, all the framework got a coat of red primer, and then a coat of black satin. Spraying during random snow and rain storms is not fun... Having painted, the slides got bolted to the outer frame. I also added some draught excluder to the surface where the drawer closes. This should take up any slack in the fit, and stop the whole thing rattling: Once that was done, I got the sides of the drawers attached to the drawer frames, and the front/bottom piece attached. This was all due to be done using countersunk rivets, but it turned out that the countersink on a pop rivet is a 120 degree whereas all the countersinks I had were for 90 degrees (normal screws, etc). So given that it was Saturday night on a bank holiday weekend, I got on and used normal pop rivets for the sides, and Large headed pop rivets for the front: Inside the Drawer: The front: However, I still couldn't use normal rivets for the bottom, as the clearance wasn't there... so I got enthusiastic in the machine shop and made a nice 120 degree countersink: which whilst not exactly elegant, worked to get the bottoms riveted up: Once everything was attached, I installed the handles in the front, you can see that in the pictures above... Next the drawers got attached to the runners: These runners have quite a nice feature in that the drawers are not attached to the runner directly, but attached to a bracket that locates on the runner, and means the drawer can be removed from the runner easily, just by lifting a couple of clips. There is also an extra hole to allow the drawer to be bolted to the slide, which I will use once the installation is finished: So now we have runners attached to frame, drawers built up, and attached to the runners, the only thing left is to attach the top to the outer frame. Again, countersunk rivets were in order: All ready to be riveted: So, once I had filled the holes above with rivets, and attacked it with the air rivetter, we should be all ready for the fun bit... Take one empty Discovery: Add the outer framework: This is not fixed down to anything yet, as I haven't added the load rail to this car. I am also not sure whether to keep the carpet or mats in the boot, but it should all still fit ok. Add the right hand drawer: Clears the door no problem, and should clear the pockets that are attached to the new (old?) door card: Then add the drawer to the other side: This leaves a gap at the side, which will be used to hold stuff, and give access to the load rail that will be installed at some point: And also a gap at the back, which will accommodate the pockets on the door: So, whilst there are one or two 'fit' issues (due to my inability to make anything square ) and it dosn't exactly look bling, with the monster rivets, and that road sign chic, I am generally pleased with what came out: It has probably cost in the region of £100, possibly less. This is mainly due to acquiring materials from the scrapyard, rather than buying virgin aluminum sheeting and runners. I haven't weighed it yet, but just to echo someone's sentiment above, it ain't light....

ronnie, this is the stuff I am after: not overly easy to see, I'm afraid.

lots cheaper than my 300 tdi issues from the last week or so then... nice solution tho.

Ronnie, Thats different to the sort of stuff I am after, so I'll bow out for now, even though Mo has fisrt dibs That is usually fitted into trucks and designed to take load bars and such. cheers Mark

Why not get a couple of discovery front seats and install those? the runners install on a flat base so should be dead easy to bolt down, and will math the fronts then too... unless of course you specifically want buckets I guess...

if there's any left over from Mo, I'd also be interested... Cheers

Never seen it, but i strongly considered doing this myself recently. I can't see it being a problem to install 2 seats in the back botled down through the floor, possibly with spreader plates. I also thought about using my existing load rail, as that is waht is used to hold aircraft seats doen - this would then make them removable pretty easily. I figured they should be installed such that the standard 3 point seat belts could be utilised.

Thats great! I love the video of it running.. when are you converting it to a pd...

Mo, I like it. I thought about the shelf idea too, but the discovery has a rather large bumper that works very well as a table! Is there more do go on top or down the side?

Not a problem Mo, you are more than welcome mate

Mine are the standard Door pockets. Not sure they were all fitted with them, but I just attached them the same way they were attached to the original door card: They are really good, but I am thinking about changing them for something slightly more robust, since I have managed to crack these when the door has closed on me...

Stick it in the dishwasher when she's not looking?

Talk to Margnor in Jacobswell, just outside of guildford. They hold virtually every fastener under the sun in stock, so you should get what you need. Enjoy Mark

Not as much as you might think. I can lift the total of what I have made so far with one arm... I will weigh it when it's done though...

Tim, Yeah they are going in the new one now, but I started them before I got it! The new one will have the cargo rail in, the same as the old one though. Alternatly, I will make the drawers bolt down through the 4 threaded holes already present in the Disco floor... The design is still fairly fluid! Mark

I am in the process of building a Toylander - There is a build thread on here somewhere... I havn't touched it for some time to be honest (anyone want to buy a part finished toylander?) ah, found the thread... Small Land Rover, for small people Cheers Mark

I've started a thread on my drawer build if you want to see the pics...

This seems to be a fairly popular topic at the moment, but it is something I have had in the back of my mind for some time. With some proposed travels coming up in the near-ish future, I thought I would finally get on with building some drawers to keep stuff in, for the discovery. I have seen the MSS store drawer and a number of other solutions from both Australia and South Africa, but they all came out a little too pricey for my budget. Whilst my solution hasn't necessarily been the cheapest way to go, it certainly isn't into the realms of the commercially available systems. My criteria for the drawers were as follows: - Made out of metal - My disco leaks, and I have a habit of dunking it into damp places, so wood is not favored. - Fit into my existing Load rails - see pics below - Easily removabale from said load rails - Not stop the Load rails from being used for other stuff... - Be strong enough that I could put anything on top of the drawers that I might put in the boot of the truck - Be able to carry recovery gear and tools, and whatever else I need reasonably instant access to... - Be made by me, at home (mostly) with whatever materials I can obtain cheaply and easily... The Back of the disco has load rails thus: I have since removed the rear dickie seats, the resultant gap will be used to hold jerry cans. Layoutwise, the MSS design uss a single drawer, and a lcokers either side. The lockers still require you to unload whatever is on top to get to them, so I went for 2 drawers next to each other. I decided to use a frame type construction, as I can fabricate that relatively easily. Folded construction is good, and often lighter, but requires the use of a folding machine of some description, whereas framework can be cut and joined quite simply. The trade off here is efficient use of space; a folded construction can utilise the space better, whereas the framework will intrinsically lose some space. I came to the conclusion that the drawers and the outer frame would all be made from 20mm square ERW steel. This is quite a thin wall material, but gives good strength for this sort of application without being massively heavy. I went through using stainless or aluminium, but I an not setup to do either at home, so steel won! The Steel came from my friendly local blacksmith (thanks paul) and so far I have used nearly 18m of it that is 3 6m lengths! Outer Frame Work: A Drawer Frame: The outer framework only needs to have the top covered - the sides are fairly immaterial at this stage. This will be done with 3mm aluminium, obtained from the scrap yard - an ex-road sign. The same piece of ally will yield the front/bottom piece for the draws themselves. This has been folded using a brake press, but is the only bit so far. The sides of the drawers will be filled in with 1.6mm ally, as that is what I had lying around (from previous visits to the scrap yard!) The Drawer Front/Bottom Piece: How the drawer will fit together: The slides / runners for the drawers came from an equipment rack, also at the scrap yard, and are rated at 75kg per pair. I figured this would be enough for my use. They are 600mm long, but my drawers are 700mm deep, so I decided I would just put up with the 100mm difference. The drawers will be kept closed using the same type of catch as the MSS draws use - that is a Southco Paddle latch. These are physically huge, but if you need to get in the drawer whilst wearing gloves for example, then the size is good. I am using the non-locking stainless steel variety, since that is what I could get at a sensible price. Mine came from the states, since anyone in the Uk was looking at £40 per catch. With the shipping and a bit of duty, these came to just over £20 each - by far the most expensive single component in the build! I wasn't too worried about them not locking, as with the rear door closed, you will not be able to get to the front of the drawers anyway. Have just about got the frames finished, and all the pices in place to get the drawers together. Framework needs the welds dressing back, since my design has some fairly close clearances, but my welding doesn't! The frame needs paint, and then the whole lot can be constructed.... watch this space....