Timmy511

thats the badger in question. as ugly as it is, and as horrible as those delorien style door are, for what i intend to do in my landrover it ticks all the boxes. itll mena alot less time an effort preparing the 90 i have now and a much better vehicle after ive done. i just hope the NFU will be reasonable with the insurance.

dont use flushing oil, flushing oil is very very thin and isnt designed to be used with turbos, theres not enough viscosity to hold preasure in the bearing housing. drain your oil, fill it with clean oil take it for a short run, drain it again, fit new filter and fresh oil and the change your oil and filter again after a hundered miles or so. it may cost a few extra pounds but itll be worth it and wont kill your turbo.

Im considering buy an ibex ive come across, my only problem wit its an early one and its on a Q plate. does this mean it constitutes as a kit car? how do i explain to the insurance company its essentially a landrover thats more off road biased? would i be better rining a kit car insurance firm? any advice would be much apreciated. cheers, Tim.

next day at tong is the 28th of december. ill be there in a blue(peeling off)/primer gray E reg 90 with snorkel winch and possibly my simex on, feel free to come across and have a natter. Tim.

parkwood (tong) imo is the best, its really technical and very challenging in place but at the sametime it can be easy as a gentle greenlane. frickley, its good if you like going up and down steep hills and playing in a bit of mud, maybe i didnt see it all but i wasnt very taken by it when i went.

Gwyn lewis kit (http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk), simple and works very well, it can be made as cheaply or as expensive as you like it. i run Gwyns break hoses, shock mounts and turrets with procomp +5" shocks, bearmach +2" springs and terantular cranked trailing arms (hull4x4). imo it works very well for the cost and it seem to be used by alot of people on the winch challenge scene.

itll depend on the acid used, with galvanising they do it to remove anything thats on the surface of the metal so the zinc has something clean to react with. when i go down to richards chassis ill get the low down from the guy down there. i cant wait to get it all sorted, been doing my bulkhead today, when my 90s rebuild its going to be solid! rebuild thread to follow in a month or two.

sorry i just wet my self!

could someone just briefly explain or give me a link to read to under stand how you control the ram using the steering wheel? apart from ram, hoses and pump what other components are needed? cheers, Tim.

from what i gather, the acid only removes surface rust but id hope itll get behind any scaling and eat that away. You should be able to tell if your chassis isnt worth galvanising because the easiest way to remove all the pain/underseal from the outside is to have it shot blast (another 100 pounds!), any think sections or holes would be shown up there as holes would be holes and thing sections would be dents/wavy sections. even if it doenst galv perfect, itll be damn site better than paint and waxoyl imo.

i dont know their name but its a galvanising place just down the road from richard chassis (rotherham way) from what i gather, theyve quoted me 100-150 to galv a chassis, the number is 01709 56088 you need to speak to lynn, you need to deliver the chassis and it have to be clean when you take it with NO paint on it! how you do that is up to you. im happy with such a quote, but after this thread it looks like i saving up a few more beans for a new chassis from richards anyway.

when the galvanising costs ony 100 pounds and the chassis only needs taking half an hour down the road, i think is just a cheap as painting. i hear what you saying reguarding the possible rust inside the rails, its would be just the same if i waxoyled it, and to waxoyl and paint would cost me 60 quid (2 tins of waxoyle and a tin of chassis black). galvanised chassis here we come!

i run simex ets for playdays etc, i think theyre god aweful on the road, too noisy and aweful steering imo. but when your off road theyre absolutely amazing, to the point i found them boring.

well if its all soooo simple as some other people have described please explain: I rang the DVLA who put me through to another person in another department who could deal with the construction of vehicles, who put me through to another department who i explained it all to, who then said 'cant you just grind the number off the chassis?' to which i replied, 'yes but thats very illegal'. hes now asked me to email him with the details to he can bat it around the offices and kep some papier shufflers in a job around these hard times! i love civil servants. i have come up with another idea to make it all above board, which would include the correct wording on the recipt from the seller. i hate this country it puts in place all these daft rules to stop teft and ringing etc but it doesnt actually stop theives does it, it just makes GENUINE, HONEST peoples lives a real pain.

your quite right as its a direct new replacment chassis, although mine is a used ex mod chassis and hance a problem according to some. ill have to ring the dvla, oh the joy!

i had the same plan on a genuine second hand chassis that will be galvanised, but it would seem in modern britain one must scrap his vehicle once its a little shabby and buy a new one, which gordon brown tell us we can all afrod now hes removing 2% from vat. sorry for the rant, see my chassis thread in the international forum, youll see why im on a bender! IM NOT BRITISH! IM A YORKSHIREMAN, YES THERE IS A DIFFERENCE!

and on that bright note and picture painted by mr hybrid from hell im off to play fallout 3, its not a post apocoliptic world in which a player imerses ones self, its an accurate sim of the hell that one is to face being a british citizen. i excuse any older people not knowing what im on about.

my god, my add will read in the for sale section shortly: 'For sale, landrover 90 - simex, lockers, salisbury front a rear axles, 200 tdi, solid chassis to fit to replace existing crusty chassis at buyers risk. i will gladly give the 90 to someone who will shoot me in the face at close range with no less than a 12 bore shot gun.' I hate the stupid fugging rules in this country it just a joke, as the writing on the wall of my firends bike shop says 'no freedom please, we're British!'

once its started be prepared to be welding for along time, from experience, as soon as you start welding them, you never stop!

the best way imo is home made anti theft devices which you dont divulge and info about. and if you have the money, a tracking device, especially for comp trucks.

im living on a shoestring at the moment landrover wise, so, the chassis will be off to the blaster next week, then its off to richards the week after where theyre putting some cage mounts on the back, making sure the engine mount are correct and then galvanising it. all in my chassis will have cost me less than 600 pounds. after galvanising ill etch prime it, black hammerite it and then waxoyle it in side as best i can. if that diesnt cure it, i doubt it can be cured. i wouldnt bother galvanising it if there was any rot on the chassis, which im confident it hasnt got any. any get befor you say it, yes they rust from the inside out but hopefully 2 hours in an acid tank pre galv will remove all that. i just cant afford 1200 quid for a new one at the minute.

do you mean its a long wheel base and it has a pin on the rear axle and eyelett on the chassis? the front should be standard eye to eye fitting. for the rear id measure a 90 rear shock and see how much longer it is, if it is longer (no more than a few inches) id run those on the rear, on the front id fit some heavy duty shortwheel base rears. while you at it, remove a couple of leaves from the springs front a rear, and clean each spring leave free from rust and lightly grease or oil ( dont blather tham itll turn into grinding paste, a small amount will stop them rusting). you get alot more articulation for little money. on my 88" i ran +2" rear procomps, standard length rear shocks up front, military shackles and parabolics, it worked very well!

ive just agreed to but a replacement chassis for my 90, its solid, ive taken a centre punck to it in all the usual places and it hasnt gone through, everytime i hit it rang instead of giving the dull thud of a rot box. Being solid id like to keep it that way. befor i do the rebuild would you get it galvanised or waxoyl/paint it with POR 15 or similar. the landrover will being doing alot of play days and some winch challenges, a friend whos been off roading for years has told me that galvanising isnt the best idea for a vehicle seeing heavy off roading as it heat treats the chassis and makes it brittle, is this true? how much would galvanising roughly cost? cheers, Tim.

i had some clutch slip after putting in my 200 tdi, the pedal adjustment has sort my problem out so far. im also about a 1/2" of free play on mine.

im worried now i only live about 20 mins from stocksbridge. i hope you get them back in one piece but its more than likely theyll be stripped, especially seing as one is highly modified and would stand out like a sore thumb.