Timmy511

ive read all the tech archive, but im still unsure about one thing, how do you get the timing gear off the crank to replace the crank seal? should it just slide off or is it going to be an arse? is there anything else i should be weary of?

seeing as i snapped a shock, bent a steering arm and the steering damper on the ibex im guess it should be those parts. but no, im doing a cam belt on it instead as ive got the bits sat here! then ill make it driveable! lol.

he just another person who think he knows loads bout landrover because he owned one. being a landrover, so long as the chassis and bulk head are ok, everything else is a fairly easy/quick swap or reapir. it would make a nice play toy. having said that, roll cage is it mounted to the chassis or not? rear crossmember???? buyer beware me thinks.

neat veg is a bit of a non starter at this time of the year despite heating it, if it freezes in the tank it turns to a sort of grease/wax and you wont get it out of the tank. the best way is a 50/50 mix with derv in the winter, in the summer you need a small deisel tank as a starter and then when warm change over to veg with an inline heater. or be really ingenious and fit an imersion heater to your tank and then pre warm it, and then just run it pre warmed from the tank and with an inline to warm the oil getting to injectors from the filter.

it definatly the shafts imo, theyre like the QE2's anchor weight wise! i reckon get them out and put itll all back to standard! ill do the work for you if you like and ill supply the parts, ill take your old ashcroft shafts and other rubbish in part ex, it would cost you no more than 50 quid labour with the ashcroft parts in px. I WISH!

well in hindsight and proper look the clonk might be the drop arm joint as it has a fair amount of play! and now having proper looked over the engine im glad ive only had it on the road, some tool had put the roacker breather pip just shoved down at the side of engine! first sign or deep water and that would have been a bit risky. so i too the air box off and modified it all to suit and then fitted a disco 200 tdi breather hose. sorted. the shock bushes do look a bit perished, ill sort that with fitting my gwen lewis kit from the 90! two birds, one stone and all that.

drill a few small holes in the pedal and put some m4 bolts through having the threads pointing out. then adjust the length of the bolts to adjust amount of grip just like bmx/mountain bike pedals.

its not a diy build! it was done by Bucks Transmissions of aylesbury, the invoice states: seals, gaskets, syncrokit, mainshaft, oil, etc and comes to a total bill of 959.98! im thinking he only changed the main shaft and syncro ring without doing bearings, but i cant be sure. ive got a stack of history with it all bill ranging from 25 quid for wheel alignment up to 900+ one for the gear box and theres one for 800 to have the tranfer box done and a service! each year hes spent 250ish on having it mot'd and serviced! as i say, i feel ive robbed the guy.

Right i went all the way from west yorkshire to oxford yesterday to buy my Ibex. im really shocked just how bad the credit crunch has made the car industry because its a total bargain. but its got its problems...... Firstly the gearbox, its been rebuilt, ive got the recipt and everything, the bloke spent over a grand having the work done, it feel nice and tight compared to my 90s box but its noisey as sin! i put the transfer box in neutral and took it through the gears, the higher you go the noiser it becomes. under load its seems fine but whilest its just sat there ticking over its sounds horible. what would cause this on a rebuilt gearbox? wrong oil? no oil? (id have expected it to have siezed up by now) or has it been rebuilt by a gibbon? Secondly theres a horredeous clunk that can be felt through the floor which im sure is something conected to the chassis. everytime you turn, break, excelorate or the front wheels drop into a hole theres a single loud/soild clunk. its poly bushed and im thinking a bush has gone, but how do i decide which, my first thought is the pan hard rod bushes as they go regularly when using poly bushes so im told. or would it be the radius arm to chassis bush? how to i find out? cheers for any advice, Tim.

if you google 'mail order 4x4' they have started doing bolt kit for suspension components etc so that would nail all the big awkward ones, id ring them and specifically order the bulkhead to chassis bolt as theyre quite long and probably wont be removed in one piece. For all the body work id go and but a load of M6/M8 x 20mm bolts as theyll cover most of the body parts imo. go for bright zinc plated if your on a buget, if youve fot money to burn order stainless, and always cover them bolts with grease (preferably copper slip) befor fitting and after, befor to stop the seizing into the part theyre fitted to and after to stop them from coroding/getting crudded up.

looks good rob. ive got front an rear to make for the ibex! Oh joy!

Hi cliff, its tim, cheers for the axles once again. im no expert on mile markers or hydraulic systems but i was under the impression it isnt the pressure of the oil that effects the speed and performace but the volume of oil being displaced by the pump. John sales (his user name is salesy i think) would be good person to ask as he uses a hydraulic winch for challenge events. have fun, Tim.

ive already said hes agreed to give a full refund.

im saying nothing, i agree theyre shizen but the bloke has atleast said he'll fully refund me with no bull. and when i see the person in question ill point out the fact the he could be done for man slaughter if someone died using his equipment especially when none of it says 'for off road use only' etc. i hope he might see sense and stop selling them. it might be easy money but nobody would want to live knowing they caused somone elses death.

im getting my money back, then im either having a set for the HOFS guy if they have any left if not gwyn lewis is getting another call. im going to steer clear of the cheap stuff from now on, lesson learned!

They are not scrapiron racing. ive phoned the supplier who sounder very shocked to say the least, he agreed to give me a full refund, which is ok. id much prefer him to stop selling them as he obviously isnt a welder, see picture (sorry about the quality).

this isnt the case, if you do this youll need to phase your prop shaft so the ujs turn at 45 degrees to one another as the drive flange faces wont run parrallel. if you ring the propshaft clinic he will explain in more detail. if your worried about the angle at which the prop runs, your best bet is to have a custom made wide angle prop made up for it.

Well i had a pair of double cranked trailing arms on my 90 until tonight, when one snapped! it snapped where the weld met the tubing at the chassis end and was a clean break, my gripe is these arms are being sold in two different places on the internet and at shows. Mine had only seen 1 green laning trip, a play day and some road milage. despite how much work they have or havnt dont i dont expect any trailing arm should break. what would you do now, try get your money back? report them to trading standards, im pretty shocked to be honest.

the salibury is hell of alot stronger, larget shaft, larger ring and pinion and a 4 pin centre. i fitted one when i put a 200 tdi in my series 3. after breaking a halfsahft and a diff and a couple of week id had enough and fitted the salisbury. if you look at the top of the axle tube there are two set of blocks for the u bolts to locate either side of, the spring seats will be welded on underneath the the two furthest apart. the want moving so there are underneath the centre of the two inner ones. i cut the spring mounts off with an angle grinder and cleaned then up, then sat them on the axle, i then placed a piece of angle iron on top of the spring mount and one under the plate on other side of the axle, i then claped it down with a G clamp on either end of of the two piece of angle iron. once like this i neasure the width of the gap between the two piece of angle iron in a load of different places ajusting the G clamps untill the were level, the i measure the distance fron the inside flange of the hub to make sure it was the same a standard axle, i just tapped the spring mount with a hammer to get this right, the re check the G clamps are still level, then crack the migh welder right up and welded them on. then fit it. Then the prop shaft, get the prop shaft in a vice and youll notice a weld in the opposited end of the prop from the sliding joint,(just up from the uj), carefully grid the weld out to leave a deep gouge in the prop about 5mm deep. if you grind the centre of the weld with a standard thickness grinding disc it should leave a flange on the uj side of the gouge, get a suitable drift and hit the flange, a crack should apprear around the propshaft tube and the uj and spigot that sit in the propshaft tube will come out, if not grind some more out of the prop giding into the prop shaft tube and not the uj, then tap it again..... eventually itll come appart. then but the prop shaft tube in to a saw (the bloke who kindly did mine for me used a nodding dog style saw) and cut about 30/35mm off the tube. if you cant get a powered saw use a hacksaw and a saw guide to get the end of the shaft as square as you can. then once its shortened, grind a shamfer around the propshaft tube, the nock the uj and spigot back into the tube. Now at this point you need to tru the uj back up to the shaft, i put the prop in a lathe and tapped the spiggot true with a DTI on it, how you do that is up to you. Then weld it back up. then fit it back up and off you go. to date ive never broken a diff of a half shaft since (or should i say my cousin hasnt as i dont drive it anymore). its a good cheap simple upgrade imo. the only draw back ive found is the 11" rear drums a little over powered ofr the rear of a swb causing them to clock up during hard breaking.

id like to mod the existing radius arm but my idea for that was somewhat unimaginative, this is a little more involved.

david that was drawn in solidworks, using the sketch tool on the first plane i selected. ill draw the 3d model on solidworks, then export it or redraw it for to use in mechanica for full FE analysis, and then use something similar to algor design check to see where any stress concentrations are in the design by applying different forces from different angles etc.

i sugest you google racers edge mx coaching, it may sound ott but Paul Cowshall is an ex british championship rider who will teach you alot of basics if thats what you want to know, im unsure if he can supply a bike but im sure he'd try his best or be able to sort you out with a good training school. ive raced motocross/enduros for a few years now and been on many training days, the key things youll need imo trail riding are good control over the bike whilst moving relatively slowly and being stood up. going hellishly fast will probaly not be your bag at first and its very unnerving.

adrian flux wont touch me as im 22. pretty Mildly miffed off.

well i rang John Foers, the man who made the ibex i would like to buy. he told me ring liverpoll victoria or the NFU and they will insure you, ok, ill do that i said. lv's response, im sorry i cant find its registration on my system, so we can quote you. NFU's response, im sorry, because of your age and because youve not done business with us befor, we wont insure you! WHAT the fudge is going on, its beyond a joke is this! kit car company next.

ive never had any problems with padocks, fast deliver at good prices. my only gripe is they sell alot of brit part stuff and automatically assume you want it, imo for some stuff britpart is not the best, but they also seem happy to supply non britpart stuff if asked for.