doda456

If the bulbs are good and wiring is good, it probably going to be the stalk, Quite easy to replace and then its good as new, Secondhand stalks can be obtained for peanuts Dan

Meths, petrol,white spirit,just put in swig around and then empty out, repeat and required, Last time on mine, I used white spirit to shift the oil, and then rans lots of water through to ensure I dislodged as much as possible. As intercoolers are metal they are naturally fairly chemical resistant. Dan

Have you not considered the good ole ebay? Im sure if you look you will find a pair of 9/16 spanners fairly cheaply, or if you really want to spend some of your hard earned cash, there is the difflock prop removal tool, its supposed to be good, but I havent tried one myself Dan

Dont forget there.s also the earths to check, theres the engine earth and also the starter earth, Dann

Any chance of a few axle twisters/ Posing mounds? Its always good to see people showing off their flex Alsoany chance of a bit more info e.g dates times venue etc..

Hello knowledgeable people, I currently have a 1987 efi range rover, and Ive just spotted that the throttle sensor aka the potentiometer, has one of the 3 wires, disconnected. I dont know how long its been like this, so my question is: will there be a noticable change if i repair/replace the potentiometer? Its currently running and driving fine, I await your replys Dan

Right folks, T have a very simple question: Legally do you need a working clutch for a MOT test? Im just asking as ive acquired a v8 disco with a dead clutch , and was wondering whether to break it, or keep it as a road legal plaything, or just hack it into some sort of v8 trialler,

How about whats known as methodical disconection, to give it, its posh name. Remove the fuse from a few circuits, its up to you what you choose, Then wait... If the battery still goes flat, then there is fault is one one of the still connected circuits. Repeat as required intill you can provwe the circuit.

I second the x springs, Ive got plus 2" shocks, and minus 2" mounts cranked arms and I can easily max out the shocks using my x springs. The travel the x springs give you is amazing. If you want pics just ask

I agree with streakys method, ive done similar to mine and it works a treat. Just modify streakys design to fit your round lights, or try making a hood out a a bit of tube if you happen to have any Dan

If you have x springs fitted dont skimp on short shocks. Ive got +2 shocks and springs, with - 2 shock mounts, and I keep finding that the shock are limiting travel, But apart from that x springs are awesome, the travel you can get is very impressive, espescially with cranked radius arms. Dan

Thats the place, I havent yet made it there, but it looks promising Dan

There is a new 4x4 site that has opened in Wiltshire, unfortunatly I cant remember the name, but all I can tell you is its near Calne. As soon as i find the name, I will post here along with a map Dan

Silly me, I forgot to add the link. But well done to those who found it and posted it up

When i did mine, they were done up stupidly tight, and had to use a breaker bar, with a trolley jack providing the turning force. It works a treat though, and will undo most diff nuts

Vosa have announced the fees for the upcoming IVA test, Im not to sure on classes, but hopefully Landrovers fall into the £199 category. Still hasnt put me off applying for 1, once ive actually built meself bobtail

The diff oil seal i.e. the one on the nose is quite an easy job, It in the tech archive somewhere, But so long as you have a breaker bar, and trolley jack you be fine. And dont forget to to chock all 4 wheels

Not at the moment, but will check my diary and post a few possible dates up next week,

This sounds like amazing news, and has somewhat increased the chances of me actually doing a bobtail, I will be watching this thread and updates with interest Dan

Im not to sure about what you described, Im sure there will be someone along soon who knows more than me, but to check the intergrity of your drive train in an axle your should: Jack up so that only 1 wheel is off the ground and carefully rotate the wheel, If the diff and halfshaft are intact then the prop shaft will turn, Do that to both sides and if the prop fails to move the its the diff, but if only 1 side turns the prop then the side that dosnt turn is broken either shaft or cv As for changing a cv, I have no idea as last time i blew my diff instead of my CV joint Dan

Update: Myself aka doda456 green 200tdi disco My brother aka scared green v8 rangerover Dr Rob murray l defender 300tdi Dwillcocks blue discovery 200tdi Maybes: Jcwcooper in his mates in a vitara Any one else wish to join us? See you all at 9am at the Bustard

Update: Myself aka doda456 green 200tdi disco My brother aka scared green v8 rangerover Dr Rob murray l defender 300tdi Maybes: Jcwcooper white 90 and his mate in a vitara Any one else wish to join us?

As the 18th is fast approaching, I'd thought id bump this thread and get ask people to add there names to the thread so I can get an idea of numbers, The details are 9am departure from the Bustard on Saturday April the 18th. and coming so far there are: Myself aka doda456 green 200tdi disco My brother aka scared green v8 rangerover Dr Rob Maybes: Jcwcooper white 90 and his mate in a vitara I will pm out my mobile number nearar the time, so that if you can make it you can let me know,

If it helps the usual way to wire an aftermarket amplifier is: 12 volt positive straight from battery via a suitable fuse, and cable, Earth wire same size cable as 12v feed. going to the nearest suitable earth, Signal in, from Headunit, usually pair of RCA cables click here for RCA cable picture Signal out to subwoofer, should be cable capable of handling the power and a 12v switched feed, sometimes called REM which comes from the Headunit and is used to switch the Amplifier on or off, Hope the above helps, but it may be completly useless as its for generic aftermarket amplifiers, Dan

Do you have a multimeter? If so check the charge by starting the engine and sticking it across the battery, From memory it should read 13,2v minium, If its not that check the back of the alternator with 1 meter lead on the charge wire( the fat one to the battery) and the other on a good earth, If you dont get 13,2 across here then the alternator is dead. Also does you battery light come on when you turn on the ignition? If it dosent then its either a wire or dead. Hope that makes sense Dan