doda456

Any chance of a brief write up/ guidance on what you have done? As i plan to do the same in the very near future

Yep, you only need the sensor on the head if you intend to keep the egr,

It may sound a bit weird but check all the the oil levels, cos things tend to run a bit better when oiled

Either way so extented brake hoses will be needed, As the last thing you want to do is articulate a little bit and rip off a brake hose. Heres my view on things: Body lift-raises centre of gravity and not much real point unless you going to fit huge wheels Spring Spacers- cheap version of a spring lift, It is much more effectife to fit new, larger springs, unless you know how old and how many mile your current springs have done, Lift springs, wide choice on the market gain articulation and space for tyres. you could use existing shocks with minus 2 mounts put the best thing to do is correct size shocks. You may also need to slightly trim the rear wheel arch by doing whats known as a camel cut. Dan

Yep swap the hub is the easiest way if you dont want to drill it out, also it may be one of those jobs which opens up a can of worms e,g wheel bearings pads etc and good luck, we all know how a simple job can take several hours

All coil sprung landrovers have the same ratios, its just the splines that vary either 10 or 24 spline. To check the amount of splines whip out a halfshaft and count and it doesnt matter if a diff goes in the front or rear axle you will still go in the same direction

Heres my 2 pence worth: The temp gauge and sender need to be matched. if its a defender temp gauge then you need a defender sender or just fit an aftermarket one that has a reading in celsuis not the usual landrover vagueness . Testing water pump is easy take off the elbow hose from top of the pump, remove stop solenoid and then spin engine and observe the fountain. and it should be top hose hot, bottom hose cold i think.

dont the end caps just come off? there should be a nut or wingnut to unscrew.

Does it blow cold air or just not blow? If its cold air try changingn the thermostat unless you know its good, If its not blowing its a non working blower, so check the fuses and if its not them its a dash out job

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15502&hl=headlight+relay will help loads as thats what i used to add relays to my disco

Its been done by devon 4x4 on their discovery challenge trucks before now, If you do it please take sme photos and share them

the windows are different sizes so Its a yes to your question

Another vote for flukes here mine survived a 15 foot fall onto to gravel without damage. The only downsides with fluke is the price and the fact they are really sensitive. At work we we take the reading off how much earth leakage there is on a cable we have to attach a 150k ohm shun atcoss the terminals. apart from that they are awesome and waterproof to a degree . . .

Also antifreeze is more penetrative than water. It can squeeze out of gaps in cooling system that water cant. So if your system has a tiny leak anitfreeze will find it

It depends on what terrain you drive over as to what milage you pads last. my disco is a second car play thing and pads last about 1000 miles as the mud kills them off quite kickly as I mainly do greenlaning and play days. If yours is mailny road going then you will get consdierably better milage

Depending on how much work you want to do you can swap: axles- discs all round engine v8 transfer box, better high ratio low ratio is exactly the same trailing arms. and thats for starters, depending on how creativeu want to get you could swap seats etc

you need 200tdi engine mounts, and you will have to consider the gearbox, manual gearbox needs changing 'cos of different size input splines, and autos wont work properly as v8s rev more than tdi's

it depends on your finances/ time and personal situation you can try a local scrapyard or a landrover breaker, It depends on how bad the damage is, and how much work you want to do Also if you get insuarnce involved you will have to declare it for the next 5 years, and it will affect your premiums etc

To solve this, you need to figure out if the engine is burning fuel:) or its own oil:( . The hard part is identifying a safe way of doing so. Next time when you fire it up, leave the intercooler outlet hose off, 2 reasomns for doing this: 1: it means to oil from turbo is entering the inlet manifold 2: It also gives you a nice place to suffocate the engine if its runs away again and removing the 12v doesnt kill it.

is the throttle return spring fitted and working?

Also its not a MOT testable item, its just a nice to have item, I also removed the bulb as my sensor is broke/fullof mud and have passed several mots since. But without it , reverse parking can be a bit tricky . . .

Check under all the carpets for rust, as they do rust a lot. Also when you say disco 1 or 2 do u mean 200 or 300 style, 'cos the discovery 2 is a bit different to a 300 tdi and for tdi engines consider when the cambelt was last done,

I believe its a 12 or 13 mm bolt and is located somewhere on the block under the exhaust manifold. Im sure someone will check but ive never actually looked for it so i cant say for definate. Dan

sounds to me like a bush or 2 could be gone/ going, check all the bushes and see what you find

200 tdis are very easy to bypass the immobiliser on. To run the only need constant 12v on the fuel pump, and a shourt burst of power to the starter to turn over. So its upto you what you do, but if you disable the the immobiliser it will still run