Jason2 Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Gearbox,axle's,swivel pins a transfer box oil change! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Have a 1995 300tdi with 117k would much appreciate any feed back concerning gearbox,axle,swivel pin & transfer box oil change.To the best of my knowledge all of it has never been changed!! Should I be changing all these oils at some time and best way to do it???? I have checked axles and they are at the correct level not been able to check gearbox as I don't have correct torx do dar to un do filler plug,what size is it and where can I get one?Believe it's a bit of a pig to do with a syringe so was thinking of doing it with a very long length of pipe and a funnel held high in the air and thought of heating the oil first. Thanks in advance. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Change them all now if they have never been changed! Gearbox is a T-55 available from decent tool suppliers probably also Halfords and I think Difflock.com do them too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Rather that try to reinvent the wheel, have a look at the excellent articles on thre Difflock Technical section at http://www.difflock.com/servicing/index.shtml HTHs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2 Posted December 13, 2006 Author Share Posted December 13, 2006 Rather that try to reinvent the wheel, have a look at the excellent articles on thre Difflock Technical section athttp://www.difflock.com/servicing/index.shtml HTHs Thanks a lot for that guy's,Difflock site explains it well-I'm on the case!!!! Cheers Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted December 13, 2006 Share Posted December 13, 2006 Jason, the filling is made much easier with a cheap garden sprayer from you're local diy place. A tip I learnt from fridgefreezer. Fill it up with ep90, pump it up and stick the nozzle in the fill hole. No hassle, no mess. Worth getting two, one for ep90 and the other atf-g, as they're cheap enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2 Posted December 16, 2006 Author Share Posted December 16, 2006 Jason,the filling is made much easier with a cheap garden sprayer from you're local diy place. A tip I learnt from fridgefreezer. Fill it up with ep90, pump it up and stick the nozzle in the fill hole. No hassle, no mess. Worth getting two, one for ep90 and the other atf-g, as they're cheap enough. SORTED!! Borrowed a 1/2 litre special oil syringe with a bent nozzle, had a friend fill the bloody thing up whilst I was laid underneath firing the oil back in!!!!! Thanks once again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffbeaumont Posted December 16, 2006 Share Posted December 16, 2006 Jason - time to get a copy of the service schedule for your truck. Haynes manual would be a worthwhile investment if you don't already have it (despite all the flack they take on here) - they have the full service schedule near the front. Most of those oils are due changing about every other service, so about every 12000 miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 I reckon the haynes manual is a worthwhile investment, its got a lot of usefull stuff in it. if your axles and stuff really have gone that long without the oil being changed, it might be an idea to treat the oil you just put in as a bit of a 'flushout' and change it again fairly soon... that way it'll have picked up all the crud and lumps that were left in there when you changed the oil this time.... if you know what i mean... oil changes are pretty cheap to do so you're better off airing on the side of caution and doing it more regularly if in doubt.... if you do a lot of wading or realy muddy off road stuff, i would shorten the oil change intervals... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2 Posted December 20, 2006 Author Share Posted December 20, 2006 I reckon the haynes manual is a worthwhile investment, its got a lot of usefull stuff in it.if your axles and stuff really have gone that long without the oil being changed, it might be an idea to treat the oil you just put in as a bit of a 'flushout' and change it again fairly soon... that way it'll have picked up all the crud and lumps that were left in there when you changed the oil this time.... if you know what i mean... oil changes are pretty cheap to do so you're better off airing on the side of caution and doing it more regularly if in doubt.... if you do a lot of wading or realy muddy off road stuff, i would shorten the oil change intervals... I do have a Haynes manuel for referance but much prefer raw first hand experiance. All I know is that the last owner (8 years and 60k) never changed any of the seid oils!! Will probably re-do the diff's & swivel pins fairly soon as it was like mud the oil that came out & I totaly agree that being tight with oil is a false economy!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted December 22, 2006 Share Posted December 22, 2006 I do have a Haynes manuel for referance but much prefer raw first hand experiance.All I know is that the last owner (8 years and 60k) never changed any of the seid oils!! Will probably re-do the diff's & swivel pins fairly soon as it was like mud the oil that came out & I totaly agree that being tight with oil is a false economy!!!! i'm fairly tight with oil, in as much as i won't spend £30 per 5 litre can for premium oils, but i do change mine very regularly.... engine... every 4,000 miles max, i use ASDA own brand diesel engine oil. axles, transfer box, gearbox... every 10,000 miles, use good stuff from motor factors. swivels, use proper graphite swivel housing grease, it stays between swivel re-builds... up to 2 years max. there is a lot of flannel talked about oils, mostly by people who work for oil companies, i'd rather use a budget (but meets all the right specs, read the back of the can) oil and change it at very regular intervals, than pay out for realy expensive stuff, and leave it in for ages. oil suffers degradation due to heat, motion, water contamination, particle contamination, and several other means... and this will affect all oils, wheather they cost £7 or £37 per can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason2 Posted December 22, 2006 Author Share Posted December 22, 2006 i'm fairly tight with oil, in as much as i won't spend £30 per 5 litre can for premium oils, but i do change mine very regularly....engine... every 4,000 miles max, i use ASDA own brand diesel engine oil. axles, transfer box, gearbox... every 10,000 miles, use good stuff from motor factors. swivels, use proper graphite swivel housing grease, it stays between swivel re-builds... up to 2 years max. there is a lot of flannel talked about oils, mostly by people who work for oil companies, i'd rather use a budget (but meets all the right specs, read the back of the can) oil and change it at very regular intervals, than pay out for realy expensive stuff, and leave it in for ages. oil suffers degradation due to heat, motion, water contamination, particle contamination, and several other means... and this will affect all oils, wheather they cost £7 or £37 per can. Faire comment! Totally agree with you! When I say "tight" don't mean put the most expensive oil in money can buy, but change it regularly!! That way you know that there is oil in there as the best oil in the world aint gunna do much good if you've got an oil leak and only change it every 2 years!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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