ballcock Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 I found I have a problem. I removed my Boge strut during the rebuild of my 110 Csw with the intent of refurbishing it and refitting at a later date. I have finally got around to getting new ball joints, gaiters and bolts, but here lies the problem. I tried to fit the new bolts into the cross member today only to find it impossible to fit the top two bolts as there is not enough clearance to align the holes. Is it a matter of lifting the body slightly off the chassis? or is there a way I have over looked? Any help would be gratefully appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) I ditched my Boge strut years ago, it just unbolted with the vehicles weight on the ground/wheels, didn't have any problem getting the bolts out of cross member. there should be 4 bolt holes in the red circle in the rear floor cross member below the rear 2nd row seats there should be 2 holes for the blots to slide into to allow removal/fitting, IIRC you can se the 2 holes in this thread on another forum, http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=71642&sid=c78e7634b6ae3c1ccc9686ce5409ed3c & the 4 bolt holes in the A frame cross member. Edited April 29, 2018 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 Hi Western thanks for the reply. The holes you mention in the cross member only allow the two bottom bolts to align, the problem I have is getting the two top bolts into the cross member there appears to be no room to align them to the holes as the bottom corner of the rear footwell is in the way. I have considered leaving the strut off but would prefer to fit if not too much trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 There shouldn’t be anything in the way there. Are u still running the matched CSW springs for the strut? If you’ve changed them I would also be inclined to ditch it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 strut is more than likely dead any way, they are not very reliable, use some later progressive rear springs & leave the Strut off, if you really want it back on try getting the bolt head flat inline with the footwell edge & persuade the bolt to go in its hole & lever the edge to assist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 I presume you’ve tried fitting them from the other side and putting the nuts on the constrained side? Definitely refit the strut if it is operational - it’s a far better setup when working than the later progressive springs. Problem is they’re usually not working as above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted April 30, 2018 Author Share Posted April 30, 2018 5 hours ago, Retroanaconda said: I presume you’ve tried fitting them from the other side and putting the nuts on the constrained side? Definitely refit the strut if it is operational - it’s a far better setup when working than the later progressive springs. Problem is they’re usually not working as above Yes I've tried from both sides but there isn't any clearance. It seems they need to be fitted before the body is sat onto the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 As I said I removed mine years ago with the body in place, no bolts were cut to get them out, this what the workshop manual says ---------------- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted May 1, 2018 Share Posted May 1, 2018 Hi. I took off my Boge leveller a few months ago and I’m fairly certain that I couldn’t remove the two top bolts. I’ll have a look underneath tomorrow and check that I’m not talking b€%#^%s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 (edited) I have looked at mine and I have in fact had to leave all four bolts in the crossmember. They are on the front side and so when you try to remove them, they are fouled by the 2nd row crossmember which is in front of that big chassis crossmember.. I'm sure that they could have been originally fitted the other way round but they weren't. Just checking back up the thread, Western mentions that the 2nd row crossmember should have holes in it to allow the top two bolts to pass into them in order to give the necessary clearance. Mine is a YRM replacement but I don't think there are any. Edited May 2, 2018 by Peaklander Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 I seem to recall jacking my 110 up by the crossmember that the strut attaches to when i refitted mine some time ago (its gone now). I think i had to jack it up far enough that the axle was effectively hanging, so be careful and make sure there are some stands under the chassis if you do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 2, 2018 Share Posted May 2, 2018 2 hours ago, reb78 said: I seem to recall jacking my 110 up by the crossmember that the strut attaches to when i refitted mine some time ago (its gone now). I think i had to jack it up far enough that the axle was effectively hanging, so be careful and make sure there are some stands under the chassis if you do this. as per the workshop manual extract above, I can't remember jacking my 110 up, it was over 20 years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted May 2, 2018 Author Share Posted May 2, 2018 On 01/05/2018 at 10:49 PM, Peaklander said: Hi. I took off my Boge leveller a few months ago and I’m fairly certain that I couldn’t remove the two top bolts. I’ll have a look underneath tomorrow and check that I’m not talking b€%#^%s. This is my problem. Removing the strut or replacing it with the bolts already in situ is easy but as I removed mine with the body off I gave no thought to the bolt clearance for refitting, If I had been aware I would have fitted fresh bolts before refitting the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted May 3, 2018 Share Posted May 3, 2018 Can you insert the bolts in the other direction or is there some reason why that isn’t possible? If you really need to do it, that 2nd row crossmember could be moved sideways by taking it out through the small body panel at the bottom of the C pillar. It’s just a few rivets to drill out as well as undoing the four brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballcock Posted May 9, 2018 Author Share Posted May 9, 2018 Finally got the bolts back in, I had two drill two holes in the rear foot well upright and still hit the bolts in with a hammer. After bolting the strut top bracket to the cross member I had to remove both the shock and anti roll bar to jack the body high enough to get the bottom cup into the a frame. all back together so move onto the next problem. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaklander Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 Glad you got it sorted. I’ll be examining mine this summer and it will be interesting to see why the bolts can’t be removed or refitted with the second row crossmember in place. Maybe that’s simply a design ‘feature’ of that model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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