101 LT95 and Rover V8 into 88" S11A

[RPiranha]

Hi all first time poster here!

Planning on putting my 69 series 2a back on the road and I want to put a rover v8 in it. I am also keen on a LT95 box because i've heard that they're strong and I don't want to be constantly afraid of the series box blowing up when I plant my foot! I want to keep the standard look. I would use a 101 layshaft and bell housing to shorten the assembly 4". I also want parabolics which would lift the car a bit and make the rear prop angles even worse which I think is my main problem. Its going to be used a fair bit offroad so I don't want binding UJs. 

Basically, will this set up work in an 88"? My other options are using a stage one front end but I'm not set on the look, or use the series box. 

Cheers

[FridgeFreezer]

Welcome!

Using 101 bits + LT95 is old-school. It certainly sounds plausible to me but I've never measured any of it up. There's plenty of conversions on this forum, using all the different boxes & combinations. These days LT77's and R380's seem more popular as they give you 5 speeds (so like having an overdrive) and the strong & ubiquitous LT230 in a choice of ratios. They do come out a bit longer though, especially with the standard long bellhousing.

Almost any box you choose is up to a carbed 3.5 so no biggie there.

You earn bonus points for keeping the front end Series style, I reckon whatever you do it's possible (if not the easiest way) to retain the Series front end.

Next weakest link when you floor it will be diffs & half-shafts, and then at the first corner you'll want the bigger brakes from the Stage 1 V8...

[Ex Member]

It is a big mother of a box.

[AV8R]

My '63 88 has a Salisbury rear axle that needs a shorter the rear propshaft by 2" Have done quite some offroading and lots of road miles without problems.

Replacing the front brakes with regular 11"brakes from a 109 will uprate the front very well. Twin leading shoes, 10% larger diameter and 50% wider linings give your 88 a decent slowing down rate. Vacuumbooster will help your pedal pressure.

[Chicken Drumstick]

What V8 and what power? Plenty of bods running 3.5’s and even 3.9’s on twin SU setups and stock Series boxes. Not the most powerful V8 setups. 

LT95 is certainly stronger. Although arguably not as nice to drive or shift. It should fit. I know of a couple of coiler 88 trials vehicles running V8’s and LT95’s without binding issues. 

As for parabolics. Not sure on the makes these days. Given the choice and money I’d go for Heystee. But they are pricey and often have weird production runs when I was trying to buy. Rocky Mountain spares are essentially a copy of the Heystee spring. But some claim built cheaper. I went for these myself as Heystee couldn’t supply what I was after at the time. 

For off road use I’d recommend getting some 2 leaf springs. Many of the other makes only offer 3 and 4 leaf parabolics. Which IMO are way too stiff for proper axle twisting off road action. Although will work better for towing and hauling or carrying people in the back. 

 

This is my 88. Runs a 200Tdi with stock location rad panel. Stock Series gearbox. Rocky Mountain 2 leaf rear parabolics. The front is a little more custom as I’m running a rear leaf spring (they are 12” longer than stock front ones ). Running a 3 leaf parabolic on the front (unsure of make sourced from Paddocks).

Has p38 PAS and extra long Rough Country shocks with custom upper shock mounts and revised lower rear mounts. 

Its running stock axles although currently 3.54 diffs and drum brakes. With stock 88 prop shafts. You can get a bit of rear axle hop if you are unforgiving with the throttle off road. I’ve toyed with making an anti tramp bar. But tbh it’s not really bad enough for most use. 

It gets used for green laning as well as setting up RTV trials events. 

 

 

Edited May 2, 2018 by Chicken Drumstick

[Ex Member]

Shifting is certainly not worse than a Series box....

[RPiranha]

@Chicken Drumstick I'll probably just use a 3.9 out of a discovery but convert to carbs and maybe put a cam in it. Ideally once I have enough funds etc I really want a 4.6 or even a 4.4 out of a leyland p76 (aussie and nz model). Somewhere around 225-250hp which is roughly what a stock 4.6 puts out I think. A series box wouldn't be too keen on 4 times the original power going through it but by the sounds of it a LT95 might be up to it. I want to do the hard work now so when I come to maybe upgrading the engine I don't have worry about the gearbox. Also, surely the rear axle would never stand up to that sort of power so the logical option is full time 4wd so the power is split. Therefore the LT95 is a good option. I would just use a stage one front axle which are pretty easy to find here due to all the ex army trucks. 

As for the parabolics how are the rocky mountain springs? I've heard very mixed opinions on them. They also seem a bit pricey compared to other makes although they do come as kits with shocks. 

Thats a nice series you've got there. I'm pretty interested in your power steering setup. How hard is it and does it get rid of some of the series steering play? 

[Chicken Drumstick]

Guess we will have to agree to disagree then. I find Series boxes quite nice to shift. You can’t rush them. But they have a nice smooth positive lever action. That “snicks” into the gate reassuringly. An LT95 feels much like the LT85 to shift. Slow long shifter travel. But much less positive feeling and more like waggling a stick about in a cardboard box. 

[Ex Member]

You must not have driven any good LT95s.  The loose stick is only when the shifter bushing is worn out.  When it is in proper shape, the shifter is tight and positive.  Shifting is as smooth as a Series.

[Chicken Drumstick]

Have driven loads thanks. Including in an RR, 101, 88’s. As said, we will have to agree to disagree. 

Edited May 3, 2018 by Chicken Drumstick

[Ex Member]

And all of them were in bad shape....  I have one and the shifter is solid and as positive as any gearbox in the world." waggling a stick about in a cardboard box" means the shifter is worn out.  I will guarantee you have never driven one with a new shifter bushing.  They all wear out after ten years and nobody ever replaces them because they have been convinced (like you) that it is normal.  It is not.  Replace that little part and you won't believe it is the same gearbox.  They are long shifts, but as smooth as anything.  Exactly like a Series box....

Edited May 3, 2018 by Red90

[FridgeFreezer]

[Bigj66]

Anyway.... I’m also interested in having soft and compliant suspension on the rear of mine especially as it will be a truck cab and not tow or carry any significant weight. With having the heavier 6 cylinder engine up front will that over stress 2 leaf parabolics and should I look at using 3 leaf springs instead? Really don’t want to make the front too harsh a ride either though.

Thinking of going the Heystee route.

[FridgeFreezer]

I have TIC parabolics (the original and very good quality) on the 109 and I found a massive difference was made by moving from cheap (ish)shocks (ProComp ES9000) to some much nicer Bilsteins (5125 series) as recommended by ToyRoverLander. So, parabolics are not the full story.

2-leaf fronts seem fine with the V8 up front (per the original post on this thread), reckon you might want a 3rd leaf for the 6cyl lump as it must add the best part of 100kgs over the front axle compared to the V8.

Can't say I noticed much lift off the parabolics alone originally, these days other mods make it harder to tell

[Chicken Drumstick]

I agree it’s more than just the springs. Shocks make a differences too. The Bilstiens are likely brilliant. Although I went with some Rough Country shocks as they worked out a lot more financially viable for me at the time. And were available immediately while the Bilstiens would have been coming from America. 

Mine rides pretty well tbh. Leans a bit in the corners, more than a coiler does. But on some rough lanes last year I could travel at better speed than the 3 D90’s that we’re with me. The suspension seems to come to live with a bit of speed over rough terrain. 

[Chicken Drumstick]

On 03/05/2018 at 8:32 AM, RPiranha said:

@Chicken Drumstick I'll probably just use a 3.9 out of a discovery but convert to carbs and maybe put a cam in it. Ideally once I have enough funds etc I really want a 4.6 or even a 4.4 out of a leyland p76 (aussie and nz model). Somewhere around 225-250hp which is roughly what a stock 4.6 puts out I think. A series box wouldn't be too keen on 4 times the original power going through it but by the sounds of it a LT95 might be up to it. I want to do the hard work now so when I come to maybe upgrading the engine I don't have worry about the gearbox. Also, surely the rear axle would never stand up to that sort of power so the logical option is full time 4wd so the power is split. Therefore the LT95 is a good option. I would just use a stage one front axle which are pretty easy to find here due to all the ex army trucks. 

As for the parabolics how are the rocky mountain springs? I've heard very mixed opinions on them. They also seem a bit pricey compared to other makes although they do come as kits with shocks. 

Thats a nice series you've got there. I'm pretty interested in your power steering setup. How hard is it and does it get rid of some of the series steering play? 

Yeah 250hp through a Series box probably isn’t advisable. A Salisbury rear axle might be worthwhile to consider also. 

Thus far I have no complaints with my Rocky Mountain springs. I did quite a bit of reading before buying. And I think it’s one of those products that many like to claim are rubbish. But usually from people who have never actually bought them. 

P38 steering is relatively easy and replaces all of the original Series steering. My build thread is in my sig. Lots of pics in there. 

[FridgeFreezer]

I'm not sure full-time 4wd is going to save Series axles from 200+hp. Depends how you drive though, I tooled round with a 3.9 in my 109 for a long time and never broke anything.

Stage 1 V8 front might have a 4-pin diff if memory serves, but they also had the Salisbury rear which is way stronger, but loses you some inches of precious rear prop length.