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TD5 ECU


Simon_CSK

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It started off with misfire and the throttle dropping off to tick over. But restarting cured it. It got progressively worst to the point is would only tick over.The AA were called and there was oil in the red ECU plug which he cleaned out with contact cleaner. That seemed to cure it and I got home 30 miles with only one splutter. The next day the car would only rev to 1800 RPM so I ordered and new loom for the injectors. After that was fitted it would only tick over and that is where we are today.

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The refresh rate on diagnostic tools is nowhere near quick enough to diagnose a faulty throttle pedal on a TD5. There are 2 ways to prove the throttle pot is faulty, substitution or with an oscilliscope. Often the 5v supply to the throttle pedal is corrupted by other 5v sensor feed wires shorting against the cylinder head on Discoveries and also the gearbox or transfer box on Defenders.

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Its part of the actual throttle pedal itself,but be careful there are 2 and 3 track types,the ecu needs to know which type is fitted - Use Testbook or Nanocom etc to set the ecu. Its a long time ago,but I think there are part numbers on them.

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The parts canon is well and truely loaded :hysterical: I have two full ES's for spares so there are no shortage of certain items. Think it is going into a garage to get it sorted I know it will be something obvious once it is on the computer.

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On 5/27/2018 at 9:28 PM, Simon_CSK said:

The AA were called and there was oil in the red ECU plug which he cleaned out with contact cleaner..............

I ordered and new loom for the injectors. After that was fitted it would only tick over and that is where we are today.

The oil at the connector to the ECU will definitely be an issue, I'd suggest removing the plugs and giving them a good soaking with contact cleaner, on both plugs and sockets.

The new harness is a good start, but remember, the loom from the head to the ECU is still saturated with oil that needs to be cleaned off regularly. Did you spray the connector at the head when you fitted the new harness, too, as the oil gets into the engine bay loom at that point?

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On 6/5/2018 at 7:07 AM, JohnnoK said:

The oil at the connector to the ECU will definitely be an issue, I'd suggest removing the plugs and giving them a good soaking with contact cleaner, on both plugs and sockets.

The new harness is a good start, but remember, the loom from the head to the ECU is still saturated with oil that needs to be cleaned off regularly. Did you spray the connector at the head when you fitted the new harness, too, as the oil gets into the engine bay loom at that point?

John

Thanks for the reply. Have sprayed contact cleaner in huge amounts everywhere with no change. Tried to change the throttle pot on Sunday but that made no difference so we are back to the loom or the injectors. Getting it put on a computer on Monday.

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So, you are only able to run the engine at idle still ? If that is the case its not going to be the injector loom or the injectors.If it will start and idle on 5 cylinders then they are doing their job. You need to look at why it won't rev. Here there are a few options, as I said before the most likely is that the 5v supply is being corrupted, (Driver demand 5v supply comes from the same source in the ecu as all the other 5v fed sensors) often a sensor feed wire rubbing the cylinder head or block around the front of the engine. The 5v supply itself can also fail within the ecu,( I have one on the shelf that has failed in this way) but this is not so common. There is also the possibility of failure of the actual driver demand part of the loom,but this is more common on Defenders where its a common work around to replace that part of the loom with a length of 7 core trailer cable.

I would say at this stage diagnostics is the way forward before any other parts are changed.

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On 6/8/2018 at 9:08 AM, RedLineMike said:

:ph34r:

parts cannon.jpg

Locked and Loaded lol

That rules out the ECU and the BCU as both now switched and still just ticking over. That leaved the injectors and the engine wiring loom.

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As I said,if it will start and idle its not going to be the injectors, I'd be putting money on the loom around the engine being shorted to the block or head somewhere,killing the 5v supply to the throttle pedal.

 

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3 minutes ago, Ally V8 said:

As I said,if it will start and idle its not going to be the injectors, I'd be putting money on the loom around the engine being shorted to the block or head somewhere,killing the 5v supply to the throttle pedal.

 

Ally

Just trying easy things with parts to hand. Unfortunately the looms on the other two disco's have more oil that the one in the car so there is little point in switching that. Am thining I could replace the wiring from the injector loom to the ecu. 

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its not the injectors,

this

12 hours ago, Ally V8 said:

As I said,if it will start and idle its not going to be the injectors, I'd be putting money on the loom around the engine being shorted to the block or head somewhere,killing the 5v supply to the throttle pedal.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick question. Would the engine tick over without the crank case sensor connected? I have been stripping the old engine wiring loom out to replace it and think one of the wires may be broken. Given the age and milage of the car I am not to concerned about replacing this regardless.

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