Teenager2413 Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 (edited) Hi all I new to this forum but I’m calling on the v8 guro for the last 4 years I’ve been renovating a defender 90 1983 which had been converted from diesal to a 3.5 v8 with twin strombergs so for a while the car would start on crank and then die turned out to be a faulty coil and module on the dizzy Know the car is running but it smells very rich out of the exhaust but it popping and banging under acceleration around 3.5k I have stripped down and cleaned the carbs new diaphragm etc I found dirt in some of the different passage ways cleaned all that not all of a sudden it misfire when acclerating I’m trying to get this through a mot as it my friends car The engine is a 1983 with unknown mileage the person that built this was a good engineer, not a good mechanic as he used the diesal wiring loom, and to say it a mess is a understatement thank you for for any help Edited November 18, 2018 by Teenager2413 Spelling mistakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montyjn Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Teenager2413, that sounds annoying. Have you checked the sparkplugs and the HT leads? I understand the HT leads, if not routed correctly, can cause mis-fires through jumping between the leads. There is an article in the technical archive on V8s and HT leads. Let me know how you get on! Assume you have checked the distributor cap and connections etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Check you have the leads in the correct firing order Put a timing strobe on each lead while engine is running so you can see if each plug is firing Check points gap is correct Check the vacuum advance is connected and suck on it to make sure the plate moves inside the dizzy. Check the dynamic timing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil110 Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Further to the above, what sort of state are things like the rotor arm, distributor cap, plugs, leads and caps in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teenager2413 Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 Hello it had a new cap and arm recently the leads are still in good nick as well it does need spark plugs but they are still firing strong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teenager2413 Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 3 hours ago, Eightpot said: Check you have the leads in the correct firing order Put a timing strobe on each lead while engine is running so you can see if each plug is firing Check points gap is correct Check the vacuum advance is connected and suck on it to make sure the plate moves inside the dizzy. Check the dynamic timing It has a electronic fizzy and th module on the side has been replaced recently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 If the rotor arm is pulled off without holding down the shaft, then the springs on he bob weights can become disconnected from the base plate allowing it to move erratically. Might be worth checking this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Platoon Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 (edited) Sounds like the mixtures wrong Edited November 20, 2018 by 14Platoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 20, 2018 Share Posted November 20, 2018 Were the new ignition bits genuine? Aftermarket stuff (esp. cheap britpart junk) does not agree with RV8's. They can be very fussy about fouled plugs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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