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1992 90 FFR - 24v generator/alternator


ananab

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Hi All

After having a long bereavement period of my last 90 being stolen in 2014, i've finally plucked up the courage and saved up the dosh for another one.  This one is FFR and still has the radio table and battery box in the back.  What I am wondering is about whether it is feasible to use some sort of lithium camping batteries in combination with the 24v alternator to give me the ability to use electrical items when i'm camping.  Has any one done this with theirs? Any suggestions, thoughts, ideas?  Or just take out the 24v alternator and just use a transformer wired to the 12v battery?

Edited by ananab
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Lithium camping batteries need a particular charging regime so need a dc/dc charger that has a lithium setting on them - these are available but I have only seen them in a 12v - 12v configuration - you will need to see if any are available.

Also, I assume you know that lithium batteries in about the 100Ah size are still hellish expensive so you really need to be sure that you need their smaller size and smaller weight.

 

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Yeah, the cost is, errrr, off putting, i was really just thinking of how little space there is in the back with the battery box in place (2 midgets and a 24hr ration pack fit well). I have a penthouse tent for the back (unfortunately not a 9x9), so i suppose space or weight isn't a real issue, other fitting my gear in the back. There's always this.....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clansman-24v-Batteries-And-Interface-Charging-Tray/162114135556?hash=item25bec16604:g:~D8AAOSwvg9Xa6bK  ,      although what i'd use those batteries for, i'm not sure!

Edited by ananab
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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry I hadn't realised how much I had forgotten since my last 90 was nicked!  Feeling a bit foolish; forget my post.

I've stripped out the battery box and connections for the 24v systems; it's pretty redundant until I fit kit that needs it (winch).  Not sure whether to leave the 24v alternator on, or whether that would lead to unforeseen repercussions.  As for the 12v system, just fitted the usual stuff, gps tracker, stereo and dash cam.  Sorry for wasting your time on replies.

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Slightly off topic, but noticed my battery (12v system) wasn't recharging when the engine has been running although it appeared the battery/ignition light was working as normal (going out when the engine was running).  Thought i might have a bit of leakage somewhere as i'd put in a stereo and gps tracker, but no.  So brushed off my immense auto electrical knowledge (i might be exaggerating somewhat), and so did all the simple tests with voltmeter, and no output from the alternator.  Then i noticed the thing i should probably have checked first; the alternator belt, which was very slack.  Bingo i thought, even though the nagging bit about the ignition light working properly.  Anyway, no joy.  So off with the alternator so i could get a good look and take it to bits (i do actually have some experience with this).  I think i found the problem (see pics below).  Apart from the main lead being thoroughly fecked, all 3 diodes are buggered.  So new alternator.  Problem is the nagging doubt about the ignition light, i did discover whilst i was working on it a night that the battery light was on very dimly with the engine running, but I thought that might have been an issue with dodgy connections/cabling, but that all checked out (positive and negative/earthing).  This is a very long winded way of getting to my question; have i missed something and i'm i just going to bugger up the new alternator by just putting it on?  Or am i just being a big girls blouse (with a nice flowery summer pattern)?

 

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Edited by ananab
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I'd say you just need a new alternator, that looks poked. Looks like that cable shorted out on something which may not have helped.

On your other topic, if you're not intending installing radio kit or running the four big nato batteries, you might as well pull the battery box out all together as its a pretty useless item otherwise.

The 24v alternator doesn't do anything other than charge the nato batteries, so flog it (can often get good money for them, people use them to make wind generators) and buy a leisure battery/split charge. Job done. 

You mentioned a transformer - anything in particular you want to run as virtually everything can be got in 12v these days - you taking curlers and a toaster? 🙂

(And keep quiet about your tracker, thieves read these forums - and swap your cigarette socket for USB so they cant plug a gps blocker in 😉)

 

Edited by Eightpot
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Thanks Eightpot 🙂

Yeah, battery box is out, 24v alternator is coming off today.  You were spot on; it's for my curlers so i have a nice hairdo when i put on the flower summer dress.

No cigar light socket, it's ex-military after all, just the inspection light sockets.  Not fitting cigar lighter, don't need it.

Fitted a new 12v alternator (STC229 - was advised this was the replacement for Lucas A115-45), but having some issues with the connections (the old alternator had a brass coloured sleeve/cover on the back which the 2 + cables fitted to on a nut then the inside was the burned out cable in my pic going to one of the + terminals via spade connector.  The ignition/battery light lead (brown/yellow) connected to a lead coming out of the smoothing capacitor fitted on the inside of of the cover).  I assumed i'd just need to fit a 3 pin connector to fix to the alternator, as there is no where else to fit the brown/yellow battery light cable (there is no connection out of the smoothing capacitor); which worked; the alternator is charging, but now the battery light stays on all the time 😕.  Does this mean the battery light lead (brown/yellow) is earthing out somewhere, or have I just fecked up completely?  Sorry if this seems obvious, I'm a couple of years out of practice with all this and feeling a bit lost.

Edited by ananab
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