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Ok, so the resistor trick across the can H and L pins didn’t work 😞.  Gutted.. was hoping it would be an easy fix

now I’m lost??

What’s the relays way that you guys suggested ?

remember I’m an electrics complete novice (unless there’s another grade lower) halfwit maybe ? 

thanks again 

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Basically all the motors are (hopefully!) going to be bog standard brushed DC motors (two wires to each). Basic terms you connect one wire to +12V and the other to ground, to reverse the motor you flip the connections around. The reason for using relays is the high currents likely involved in driving the motors (note they'll pull more if you're sat on them for example) but broadly speaking the following diagram should give you some indication on how to wire up each motor.

You'll then need a 3 way switch which in the central position does nothing, in one direction it activates relay 2 leaving relay 1 in the same position. The other direction it will leave relay 2 but flip relay 1.

Clear as mud?

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It's going to be a lot of wiring...

Offer is still there.

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Apologies for the constant questions. 
I’m guessing I can still use original seat switches ??

totally appreciate the offer of help but at the moment it’s a little to far for me to travel with all the other stuff I have on at the minute. Can’t thank you enough for the time you have given so far 

thanks 🙏 

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At a guess: R20BC- 5 blade 40/30A changeover.

Although I don't know how much current the seat motors draw.

Beware - the arrangement Ed drew works OK on paper but due to the reaction time of relays you can switch from "forward" to "back" a bit quickly and end up with two relays short-circuiting 12v straight to ground. You might find older electric window switches or possibly carling switches would provide the answer with zero relays, but obviously they need housing.

If you aren't in a hurry it would be possible to knock up a microcontroller that handles the delays etc.

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8 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

If you aren't in a hurry it would be possible to knock up a microcontroller that handles the delays etc.

Or just use the same micro to provide the AUTH message that the seat needs to see from the LIN bus before it will operate normally? :ph34r:

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15 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

At a guess: R20BC- 5 blade 40/30A changeover.

Although I don't know how much current the seat motors draw.

Beware - the arrangement Ed drew works OK on paper but due to the reaction time of relays you can switch from "forward" to "back" a bit quickly and end up with two relays short-circuiting 12v straight to ground. You might find older electric window switches or possibly carling switches would provide the answer with zero relays, but obviously they need housing.

If you aren't in a hurry it would be possible to knock up a microcontroller that handles the delays etc.

Ok I get that..

really want to use original switches if poss, not only because of the original cost but more for aesthetics.

deffo not in a hurry. So what’s the microcontroller thing ??

6 minutes ago, TSD said:

Or just use the same micro to provide the AUTH message that the seat needs to see from the LIN bus before it will operate normally? :ph34r:

As Manuel would say “que”  ?? 😂

I Bet you guys regret ever replying to my questions

 

thanks fellas 

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Now that people with more, apparent, time have offered their services I shall bow out :SVAgoaway::popcorn-and-drink-smiley-emotic

Happy to help out though. Just to be clear relays aren't the way I would suggest or recommend but the question was asked.

Meanwhile I'll go back to swearing at glass fuses and Lucas wiring :P

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Looks ok to me.. 0-140mph is dam quick.

6th gear by 50mph then drop down to 3rd for the 140mph top out😂

Gotta be a Bmw ... not an indicator in site.

you sound like you know lots... lin busses and auth messages 👍 I need you in the team 

thanks 

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2 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:

Now that people with more, apparent, time have offered their services I shall bow out :SVAgoaway::popcorn-and-drink-smiley-emotic

Happy to help out though. Just to be clear relays aren't the way I would suggest or recommend but the question was asked.

Meanwhile I'll go back to swearing at glass fuses and Lucas wiring :P

Noooo Ed come back

its a team effort lol

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3 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

Yes

Was that the reason for your recent trip to London then ? 
just been though your 6x6 Posts.. stack sounds fantastic, you gotta keep that. Go the storage box route and extend tipper back a few inches 👍 awesome piece of kit 

2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Plus, we are not all in the UK.

I kinda guessed that but knew Ed and TSD were UK based. 
 

cheers fellas 

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On 3/10/2020 at 1:55 PM, TSD said:

Or just use the same micro to provide the AUTH message that the seat needs to see from the LIN bus before it will operate normally? :ph34r:

Do we you know what messages are required because this strikes me as the simplest solution.

@Chambo110 - how confident do you feel pulling apart the seat module with the switches and taking some piccies for us?

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I don't have much/any more info than you, I simply had already read the doc I linked as part of the canbus reverse engineering that I was doing.

The doc I linked before says 'The control module will exit stand-by mode if there is any LIN bus activity. When the control module exits stand-by mode it must verify the 'System Enable Status' in order to recognise when it should respond to a switch request.'

So a normal LIN wakeup should bring the seat out of standby, but then it probably still won't respond until it's been told to. It's not clear to me if the LIN bus master is the seat memory module or the CJB. If it's the CJB then it's probably not too hard to spoof the required message, once it's been sniffed from a working vehicle. I have almost no experience of LIN bus, but it looks fairly slow and simple to work with. Somewhere round here I have a usb to k-line converter I built about 5 years back that might be useable, but I haven't really thought about it.

I was/am considering putting a D3 instrument pack into the 300tdi Ibex I'm building, which is the only reason I'd looked into the various D3 busses at all.

 

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11 hours ago, Ed Poore said:

Do we you know what messages are required because this strikes me as the simplest solution.

@Chambo110 - how confident do you feel pulling apart the seat module with the switches and taking some piccies for us?

I will give it a go later. 

I have found out that the “lumbar stuff??” button and the “side bolsters pump” works fine.. these are NOT wired through the seat control module.

i originally thought the 2 small buttons were the memory function but turns out they are for the side bolsters pump.

i do have more switch packs (the memory ones I believe) which I’m guessing were originally mounted in door card?? There are 2 of them. Unlock/lock Buttons and numbers 1-3 See below. 
but I don’t have the loom for those (I don’t think)

 

 

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Not much to report.. can’t figure out how to take the main switch pack apart. 
So, while the weather has been sort of half decent I have created a large whole in the floor to allow access for the local cats into my vehicle for sleeping at night

i am creating a custom seat box out of 25mm box and angle to accommodate the new seats front and rear.

however this has meant I have now uncovered some rot in the c posts and both foot wells.. all very early stages so kind of a result catching it early.

Great views from this side to top of main chassis, and considering its 33yrs old it’s really not in too bad a condition😁

Im going to spend a bit of time removing any early signs of rust and then treat.

( what’s best for this by the way ??? )

Left wiring diagrams at work, but I’ve had a thought. Would the memory switch pack need to be hooked up to take the seat operation out of “inch mode” ???
see the wires Gy-V and Y at c33 block from “seat switch pack” driver to “seat pack switch memory driver”

i will look again into dismantling the main switches.

 

 Thanks 

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