Chambo110 Posted February 23, 2020 Share Posted February 23, 2020 Guys i shared in the RR section first as I now have some l494 seats from 2014 rrsport, but had no luck. Can anyone electronically minded help me decipher these please?? im thinking that c33 is the connection blocks under my seats I’ve tested the motors and all work individually but how do I power the seats up please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 After a lot of diagram reading I now have power to the seats. i hooked up yellow/ red 12v via 30a fuse brown/ red 12v via 30a fuse grey/yellow 12v via 15a fuse. also the 3x blacks for earth although I now have power I can only move the seats in small increments.. ie.. push switch to slide forward, it moves maybe 10mm then stops, if I let go of switch then press again immediately it goes another 10mm this happens for all seat movements!??!? am I missing something.? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 Without trawling all through the diagrams, have you got 12v on every wire that could need 12v and ground on every ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 @Ed Poore Ed has got RR seats fitted and is an eletrical guru, I'm sure he'd know. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said: Without trawling all through the diagrams, have you got 12v on every wire that could need 12v and ground on every ground? As far as I know with my very limited knowledge.. would be very grateful if someone else could take a look. 6 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said: @Ed Poore Ed has got RR seats fitted and is an eletrical guru, I'm sure he'd know. Mo Lol If I’m totally honest, it’s Ed that’s got me this far. He’s a top bloke but I think we are stuck now Thanks fellas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 The GY-YE wire (LOGIC FEED) looks like it should have power on it as it's fed from a fuse. MS-CAN and LIN wires are data so not much you can do with those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 39 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said: The GY-YE wire (LOGIC FEED) looks like it should have power on it as it's fed from a fuse. MS-CAN and LIN wires are data so not much you can do with those. The gy-ye does have power to it .. what does ms-can mean ?? lin goes direct from switch pack to seat module anyway just tried passenger.. wired exactly the same.. guess what.. it does exactly the same thing 😂 the brown/white wire looks like it’s does power for the heated seats part. ( another diagram) I hooked that to power aswell just in case but no change im well n truly lost now . Should of paid more attention at school really thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 (edited) Your seat controller is in a fault/shutdown condition called 'inch mode' because it hasn't got any communication with the rest of the RRS via the local interface bus. "The seat will be operational in 'inch mode' only if there is a LIN bus failure." Edited March 1, 2020 by TSD Added a link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 Oh!! does that mean I just have to deal with it like that?? Or is there a work around ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 1 hour ago, TSD said: Your seat controller is in a fault/shutdown condition called 'inch mode' because it hasn't got any communication with the rest of the RRS via the local interface bus. "The seat will be operational in 'inch mode' only if there is a LIN bus failure." - admittedly that was along the lines of what I was thinking - it was failing to speak to something on the car. No one to blame but myself, was knackered that particular day and couldn't be bothered to spend some time on Google. @Chambo110 - do you have both "Module - Driver seat" and "Switchpack - Seat - Driver"? If it's ONLY a LIN bus failure that causes inch mode then if you have both modules there might be a broken wire between the two. What I suspect is that it's also the CAN bus that can cause the inch mode. Assuming you have both modules (I would assume so?) then I'd first check that there's not a broken wire (the grey GY) one? Now if that doesn't show up anything can you measure the voltage on the MS CAN H and MS CAN L pins (with respect to ground, i.e. negative of the multi-meter on a ground pin and the positive on each pin in turn - DC volts this is) - they should be hopefully relatively easy to spot as I'd hope they are a twisted pair. Hopefully both will be around 2.5V if I remember correctly. Now here's a slight stab in the dark but there's a small chance the module is simply recognising the CAN bus is not terminated correctly so you might get away with putting a 60 Ohm resistor between CAN H and CAN L to fool it. When I've got a moment I'll take a read through the document @TSD linked to and see if I can glean anything from it. A quick glance through indicated that the seat goes into sleep mode if no activity is seen on the LIN bus so it might be enough to build a little doohicky that spews carp out on the LIN and CAN bus to fool it into thinking it's awake. Unfortunately I'm not sure it's going to be quite that simple. Now if you were willing to bring them down to Wales I could certainly pull the control modules apart and do a little bit of reverse engineering. Worst case can always design you a custom circuit board to do all the control work but I'm afraid that might cost a bit more than you want. Depends on how much time you want to invest. I'd be happy to pull apart things for free because I'm nosy like that. We can take it from there - it might be a simple fix, it might be more complex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 On the D3, the small increment movement thing is when a memory module is fitted but cannot communicate with a central ecu. Do you have the memory buttons on your rrs seats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 Wow.. lots to digest there. Ed, totally understand. Didn’t expect you to run round after me... but seeing this reply I very much appreciate it. yep I have the switch pack and I think it has 2 memory buttons on it.. plus the drivers seat control module is under the seat aswell. i would say the broken wire ( grey one) wouldn’t be the issue as it does it on both seats. so are we thinking I should try the MS CAN H and L I’d love the trip to wales option and just pay you to fix but I’m struggling with work commitments and home life stuff at the minute. ( halfway through an extension) and she gets the raving hump when all these outstanding jobs to do and I pull apart me new seats that I didn’t really need anyway. 😂😂 thanks again for your time and knowledge.. reb if the 2 small round buttons on the switch pack are the memory buttons, then yes thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 If its like the d3 seats, eight relays will aort it. Thats what i plan on an electric seat i am fitting to the d3 to replace the manual one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 Relays will certainly sort it, they're only DC motors after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 Hmmm Eds bit ”Now here's a slight stab in the dark but there's a small chance the module is simply recognising the CAN bus is not terminated correctly so you might get away with putting a 60 Ohm resistor between CAN H and CAN L to fool it.” .. is this worth a try ?? at present those wires are not connected to anything amd as you say they are twisted ..ye-vi and ye-or cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Have you measured the voltages on those pins yet? It would also be worth measuring the resistance to ground and the resistance between the two wires (with no power). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 2, 2020 Author Share Posted March 2, 2020 Not yet.. was working last night. Only awake now as I needed an old man “middle of the night pee” If you have the time could you do me a halfwits guide on how to. I wouldn’t know what settings to use or anything no problems if your busy.. I can google it later thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 Tutorial here: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/measuring-voltage Basically turn knob to V with straight lines, put black (negative) probe on any ground pin and red (positive) probe on CAN H when powered. Hopefully will give you about 2.5V, do the same but this time measure CAN L. To measure the resistance across the pins remove any power from the seat and turn the multimeter to the Omega (Ω) symbol. If you've got multiple ranges then you can probably just pick the lowest and go with that. If it appears to max out (how it does that depends on the meter) then go up the range until it stabilises. Technically you should start at the upper range and go down but we're hoping it'll be about 60Ωs here so might as well jump a few. If it's not measuring 60Ω across the pins (and is much much higher) then the resistor trick stands a chance of working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 No luck yet.. can’t find multimeter 😡 try again tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 So the Vlots seems to be 2 then with no power the can L and H I get this reading upto 20k after that 200k flashes all sorts of numbers then settles to the -1 2000k the numbers jump around all over again ?? doesnt do the -1 though ?? what the hell does that mean ? Or is my meter knackered Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 Meter is maxing out - basically the two pins are open circuit. It might be worth chucking a 60 Ohm resistor across the two pins then, it might, might be enough to fool it. No warranties offered on this work though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 Cool ill give it a bash. watch this space. Can’t thank you enough for your assistance hopefully if we find a fix it will help others 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 One of these ?? and do I want 1w metal film resistor or 2w metal film resistor ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 1W should do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chambo110 Posted March 3, 2020 Author Share Posted March 3, 2020 Great thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.