Bigj66 Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 What’s the best technique to ensure the torque converter doesn’t disengage from the pump splines during fitting to the engine? At the moment the TC is bolted to the bellhousing by means of a transport bracket but this will need to be removed prior to fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 If done horizontal, it shouldn't. Once fitted, there should be a small gap between flex plate and converter, assuming you have that, all good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 14, 2020 Author Share Posted July 14, 2020 3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: If done horizontal, it shouldn't. Once fitted, there should be a small gap between flex plate and converter, assuming you have that, all good Ok cheers. I don’t need to prime the TC with ATF before installing the box do I? Just fill it up once everything is bolted up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 14, 2020 Share Posted July 14, 2020 It's not essential, but some people think it a good idea to get some in there so at least it is not dry. If its a used converter, just slap it in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Are there any bolt holes in the bell housing that would allow you to hold the TC back with string or a length of wire? Could you drill and tap a couple of holes to fit screws as blanking plugs later? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted July 15, 2020 Share Posted July 15, 2020 Could poke something through the access plate on the bottom of the bellhousing. But it shouldn't move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 15, 2020 Author Share Posted July 15, 2020 There’s no holes and I’d rather not drill any if I’m honest. I’m going to be lifting it in by hand so I think as long as I keep it nose up to stop the TC from sliding off the spline then it should be okay. I had seen something in the past about using wire or zip ties but can’t find anything and I’m not 100% sure that was for a ZF anyway. All going well the box will be in tomorrow if the kickdown cable gets here 🤞 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tobias Posted July 16, 2020 Share Posted July 16, 2020 I always want to keep the tc fixed for as long as possible, being a bit paranoid about the tc slipping out. The bracketin the photo looks neat and if you keep that in place until the last moment, measure the depth of the tc below the mating face before you remove the bracket and then remeasure before starting to bolt it up you are fine. Also stop if you sense any resistance to "sliding in". I once had forgotten to remove the bushing in the crank nose used in manual engines when converting to auto. I stopped in time when i felt resistance but were very nervous until i could test drive it... good luck! T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 16, 2020 Author Share Posted July 16, 2020 7 hours ago, Tobias said: I always want to keep the tc fixed for as long as possible, being a bit paranoid about the tc slipping out. The bracketin the photo looks neat and if you keep that in place until the last moment, measure the depth of the tc below the mating face before you remove the bracket and then remeasure before starting to bolt it up you are fine. Also stop if you sense any resistance to "sliding in". I once had forgotten to remove the bushing in the crank nose used in manual engines when converting to auto. I stopped in time when i felt resistance but were very nervous until i could test drive it... good luck! T Thanks. It went in today after a bit of a fight but I’ve yet to bolt up the torque converter to the flex plate so 🤞🤞 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 Once the torque converter is bolted to the engine should I still be able to turn the engine over by hand? Its an empty box at the moment just been fitted onto the chassis so no running engine. Is there supposed to be a gap between the flex plate and the TQ feet when installed prior to bolting? Should the TQ slide towards the flex plate when the bolts are tightened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 22 minutes ago, Bigj66 said: Once the torque converter is bolted to the engine should I still be able to turn the engine over by hand? Yes, as you need to be able to tighten all 4 bolts, so it needs spinning. 22 minutes ago, Bigj66 said: Is there supposed to be a gap between the flex plate and the TQ feet when installed prior to bolting? A very small one. If too big, you're probably missing a spacer somewhere. 22 minutes ago, Bigj66 said: Should the TQ slide towards the flex plate when the bolts are tightened? 1mm or so, yes, wouldn't want the flex plate/crank to do the sliding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigj66 Posted July 17, 2020 Author Share Posted July 17, 2020 Will a 1mm gap suffice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 17, 2020 Share Posted July 17, 2020 Yes 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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