reb78 Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 The 110 is shortly to be stripped. I am replacing the doors and bulkhead and think i will do the sills/B/C pillars at the same time. As a result, I am going to dismantle the body and paint the lot so it all matches. I have never painted before. Is there an idiots guide to getting started anyone can reccomend? Literally from what spray guns to use, how to prep the panels (fillers and primers)? Do I need different primers for the ali panels? The rear doors are galvanised and unprimed, the front doors are galvanised and already primed. The bulkhead is galvanised and unprimed! What paint do you folks use and where do you buy it? Is the colour code on the VIN plate As you can see.... I am not sure where to start... but do want to do it myself.... so any guidance here is welcome! (its a bit of a large question but some pointers to get started would be gratefully received!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 There's not an easy answer to that, it's a big subject. If you want to go with the factory colour you're limited to cellulose paint really, 2k is too dangerous to use on a diy basis if you're not equiped or trained. If you don't need to stay with a factory colour you can use 1k synthetic enamel which is quite forgiving but largely only available in BS and RAL colour schemes, though Lechler have a good colour match system which gets very close. Your local paint supplies shop is probably the best place to go and get supplied with compatible etch, primer, filler and top coat. Don't be tempted to use 2k unless you pony up for a 6hp compressor, air fed respirator and suitable ventilation equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 Its the sort of thing you can spend a fortune on. I have quite a cheap set up and with practice it works for me. I find gravity fed spray guns work well, I just have quite a cheap one (Sealey S701G) but with practice I am capable of producing a finish I'm happy with. I buy paint from paintman paints and other general bits like panel wipe, standard thinners for washing the gun through, face mask, gloves, cloths etc from Brighton auto paints. You don't want moisture from the compressor getting through to the gun or you'll get fish eyes. I have a water separator on the regulator and then a cheap in-line water separator off ebay on the end of the gun from the airline. I'll state the obvious - the amount of preparation work is directly proportional to the finish you'll achieve. Like anything, practice practice is key. Do you have a piece of scrap Ali sheet about to practice on so you can get your gun set up? There's a fine line between getting a lovely orange peel free finish and a big sag, I think getting close to that line but not crossing it is the real skill that will take practice. Once the paint is dry I use a liquid compound followed by a glaze (Farecla) with a cheapo toolstation polishing mop and the finish is really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 2 hours ago, monkie said: You don't want moisture from the compressor getting through to the gun or you'll get fish eyes. Fish eye comes from oil and silicone contaminents, not water - usually from oil blowing past compressor rings, traces of wax left on the surface or using things like wd40 in the same area. Water leads to micro blisters. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 17 minutes ago, Eightpot said: Fish eye comes from oil and silicone contaminents, not water - usually from oil blowing past compressor rings, traces of wax left on the surface or using things like wd40 in the same area. Water leads to micro blisters. Ah yes, wrong terminology on my part. Either way, you don't want either water or oil coming through into your gun to be sprayed onto your panels as you paint them. I have found these little things really helpful at stopping stuff from your air tank coming through into the gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 Are you using standard thinners to thin paintmans coach enamel ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 (edited) No, I use the coach enamel thinners supplied by paint man to mix with the paint. The big tin of standard thinners I get from Brighton Auto Paints is to clean out the spray gun after. Edited April 26, 2021 by monkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L19MUD Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 In reference to the galvanized panels you will need to use T-Wash/Mordant solution on them first or the paint will not get a key Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 2 hours ago, Mo Murphy said: Are you using standard thinners to thin paintmans coach enamel ? Mo With coach enamel (polyeurethane) you should use either a good quality white spirit or ideally 'Fast Flash thinners' which are made for the job. I've accidentally used standard thinners before now and got away with it, but being such a strong thinner it can cause problems with whatever you're spraying onto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.