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"Old" Galv Chassis - Best Protection / Coating / Coverings


gruntus

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And a couple of further small questions:

1 - I'm definitely up for the Jotomastic, In terms of coverage for my 90 chassis, how much (in litres) am I likely to need to buy? (I will probably do this over a few nights in small batches and will order this week).

2 - And if I use a smooth radiator roller, is it possible to get a reasonable finish on the outside of the rear cross member of my "Driveway Queen"? 😄

Thanks again.👍

Grant🙂 

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2 hours ago, gruntus said:

And a couple of further small questions:

1 - I'm definitely up for the Jotomastic, In terms of coverage for my 90 chassis, how much (in litres) am I likely to need to buy? (I will probably do this over a few nights in small batches and will order this week).

2 - And if I use a smooth radiator roller, is it possible to get a reasonable finish on the outside of the rear cross member of my "Driveway Queen"? 😄

Thanks again.👍

Grant🙂 

Haha - and to add to point 1 - how much for a 110 chassis?!

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I bought a 5ltr tin and it was more than enough for a 110 chassis, two coats. 

Airless pumps the paint out of the nozzle at very high pressure to atomise it. Air fed uses the air movement to draw the paint out and atomise it with the air flow. As to which is better I haven't used airless.

Mike

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Excellent. I will get an order in.

Being a two part paint system - is this the same as 2k stuff containing isocyanates and so shouldn't be sprayed by a home user without proper respirator type equipment anyway? (as you can tell, I am quite ignorant when it comes to paint systems!!)

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Hi I would recommend you use weight rather than volume to mix, especially small quantities, though I have happily used volume, but I find weight so much easier and more accurate. Towards that, I would recommend the chart published by SML, Link, and some scales or I have uploaded a rather rough & ready Excel version which if you set the amount in cell T4 will calculate quantities.  As regards finish, I haven't had to do anything very visual. But it is worth noting some of the epoxy mastic primers are affected by UV, so if you want a nice finish, eg rear crossmember, maybe a thick coat followed by a flat off and then a spray finish to provide a cosmetic and UV resistant layer might be the way to go. I think the UV degradation is only cosmetic. And please wear gloves! 

jotun.xlsx

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  • 2 months later...

Hi Gents,

Thought I'd give a quick update on how this went.

I applied two coats of Jotun a week apart and I put it on with radiator rollers and a brush and then followed up with spraying a full coat of schuttz to give it an antichip barrier. 

Jotun is definitely a great choice of paint and time will tell how it stays on.

Big thanks to Mike and  cackshifter for the recommendation and info, so much better than just a coat of underseal!

I will post some before and after pics.

All the best 

G

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