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OX Motor burned after winching out under load?


Rasmus

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Hi Forum,

 

I just participated in the Pomeranian 52nd edition – Grate race 😊

Unfortunately, my OX motor stopped working after winching the car (Defender 90) backwords down of a steep incline?

No problem winching up – full functional after the ascent 😊 But the winch down destroyed the motor.

I winched out (down) in small bursts using 12V. The winch is a Red Winch Cobra 1. Std. 12V edition. The motor is a 12V OX motor.

The ascent was don with 24V overvolting.

Any idea what caused the problem? It should in my opinion not be possible to destroy the winch going down?

 

Best

Rasmus

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Powering out tends to over-speed the motor - effectively centrifuging the windings & commutator plates out of alighnment.

On Red Winches website they say

Quote

One nice feature we strongly recommend is when you are lowering out you can switch your power isolator off to the winch (no power to the motors) and just use the winch out button/rocker switch. This still will activate the air solenoid

At a guess!

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On 10/12/2021 at 12:12 PM, simonr said:

Powering out tends to over-speed the motor - effectively centrifuging the windings & commutator plates out of alighnment.

If you're powering out AND over-volting could regenerative braking be causing even greater over-voltage and thus burning things out even more?

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On 10/14/2021 at 9:14 PM, FridgeFreezer said:

If you're powering out AND over-volting could regenerative braking be causing even greater over-voltage and thus burning things out even more?

You don't (easily) get regenerative braking on a series wound motor. 

The armature and field windings are in series (hence the name).  In order for it to generate, there has to be current flowing through one, to generate a field, to generate a current in the other.  Other than the tiny residual magnetic hysteresis in the iron core, there's no magnetic field to get it started. 

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14 hours ago, simonr said:

You don't (easily) get regenerative braking on a series wound motor. 

The armature and field windings are in series (hence the name).  In order for it to generate, there has to be current flowing through one, to generate a field, to generate a current in the other.  Other than the tiny residual magnetic hysteresis in the iron core, there's no magnetic field to get it started. 

Wouldn't applying burst of 12V to power out be enough to keep the magnetic field strong enough to allow the motor to generate current while lowering the car?

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Potentially.  The problem is the resistance of the field windings - it's half that of a motor which will draw 1000A+.  Your burst will be drawing double the current.

The way it's achieved with series traction motors is to effectively use a sepearate speed controller for each (armatue & field windings).  Then the field controller limits the current, allowing the armature to generate.  It's not efficient, only useful for EMF Braking.

Long ago, I tried to develop this as a motor brake - but the cost was just too high to make it a viable product.  If you just feed 12V in to the field windings, they burn out too quickly!

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Hi Forum,

 

Thanks for all the answers.

I now had the chance to dismantle the OX unit. There are no signs of overheating on the windings. However, the commutator plates are clearly damaged, and the brushes and holders are destroyed. I think it’s fair to conclude that its over speeding winching out that is the reason

 So, I need to figure out how to avoid this going forward – Maybe as Simonr suggest: Switch power isolator off when winching out?

 Any other suggestions?

 Ps. No response from Red Winches!

 

Best

Rasmus

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  • 3 weeks later...

Red winches sales manager is a Neil Brooklyn. It's Managing Director is Neal Jones - he's also the brains behind the company. I would email him. If you don't get a reply within 48 hours, email again. Red Winches are very good, but very, very expensive and for that you should expect a fast response, even if it is a holding email

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