stevebus Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 (edited) Need a bit of help here guys if you can, I've replaced a rear seal on the diff part number AEU2515 all went well, I marked everything as I should, all tightened up nicely, but unfortunately it leaked worse than before, when I got it home, like a thwack I just undone it without marking it, how can I get it done back up correctly without buggering anything up, I've noticed that when you turn the wheels the shaft moves in and out pending which way you turn the wheel obviously because its loose, is what I'm trying to achieve by tightening the flange to stop that in and out movement then maybe just nipping it a bit tighter would that be sufficient enough to not bollox a bearing or is there a torque setting, hope that all makes sense, thanks Edited June 13, 2022 by stevebus Spelling mistakes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 The issue you have is the prop flange nut holds the pinion tight against a crush tube. The tubes length is set by squashing it till the pinion and ring gear mesh correctly. You need to now bolt this all back up without squashing the tube any more (hence the need for marking and counting). If it was me I'd locktight the nut and nip it back up till just tight and hope I've not gone to far or to loose. Then all you can do is listen out for it being/getting noisy or coming loose. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 Cheers Mike, if I pulled the half shafts and nip it up, would I be able to feel how the bearings are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 I doubt it. You could pop the cover off and measure the backlash. You might be able to get a dial gauge on the pinion so you could nip it up then tighten till it starts to move but by that point your three parts the way to pulling it out and doing it properly. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 35 minutes ago, miketomcat said: I doubt it. You could pop the cover off and measure the backlash. You might be able to get a dial gauge on the pinion so you could nip it up then tighten till it starts to move but by that point your three parts the way to pulling it out and doing it properly. Mike Right fella, thanks for your time, all the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 I had a similar issue, I replaced the flange and seal so lost the setting. I believe it takes a lot of force to crush the tube, I went to about 140lb.ft and it was all ok. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 The crush tube only start crushing at 250’lbs, and requires exponentially more to continue crushing. You’ll certainly know about it if you are applying that much torque! I have tightened the nut to 150’lbs in the past after fitting a new seal or swapping ratios and it has been absolutely fine. 150’lb will take out any hysteresis in the tube and will grip the nut tight without any risk of increasing bearing preload. Several other forum members have followed that advice and had no trouble at all.🙂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted June 13, 2022 Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 You have put my mind at rest there guys, was starting to get a bit worried with what should have been the simplest of half hour jobs turning into a marathon, thanks all for your input Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 9 hours ago, miketomcat said: The issue you have is the prop flange nut holds the pinion tight against a crush tube. The tubes length is set by squashing it till the pinion and ring gear mesh correctly. You need to now bolt this all back up without squashing the tube any more (hence the need for marking and counting). If it was me I'd locktight the nut and nip it back up till just tight and hope I've not gone to far or to loose. Then all you can do is listen out for it being/getting noisy or coming loose. Mike Just for clarification, the pinion depth is set by shims behind the inner bearing outer race, setting it closer to the diff centre the more shims you add. The crush tube is there to set bearing preload against between the two taper bearings on the pinion. A loose nut will not alter the gear mesh unless it is so loose as the pinion can move along its axis. Set a little loose on the pinion and nothing bad will happen. Set just nipped to around 70’lbs and you could end up with slight skewing of the pinion under high load, which would not be great for the gears. Set too tight (takes long levers on the socket and locking tools and a lot of effort) and the bearings will be under too much preload and will overheat and eventually fail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted June 13, 2022 Share Posted June 13, 2022 I tried a few leather seals on my salisbury but just couldnt get them to seal again after the original started leaking. In the end opted for the replacement flange and updated (non leather) seal kit - https://britcar.com/search.php?query=stc4457&xBrand=&part_type=&xSupplierID=&product-sort=&xPerPage=10 Tightened up as Snagger has indicated. This was probably 7 years ago and at least 50k miles (probably a lot more thinking about the mileage I would have been doing in that time) now at least and all good since. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 14, 2022 Share Posted June 14, 2022 Yes,I remember now mine was a la Snagger 👍 at 150lbft, no problems since. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevebus Posted June 17, 2022 Author Share Posted June 17, 2022 Thanks again chaps, I'm still waiting for the seal and flange to show up, but I've got the new type seal coming cos someone else said that the leather ones never seem to reseal, I'll aim for 140 to 150 lbs and hope, thanks again for everyone's imput 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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