Northwards Posted July 16, 2022 Share Posted July 16, 2022 Hi folks, I’ve not long noticed that I’ve lost 2 out of the 3 nuts holding the downpipe to the turbo. The part number I’ve found ESR2034 suggests a nyloc M10.. I’d have thought the nylon insert would have melted in this position? I’d also thought I read something about brass (or copper plated) nuts for this location. I did search but it seemed most of my results were for the manifold to head application. What’s best to use? I was quite attracted to the idea of a lock washer + 2 longer brass nuts, so that the stud thread is completely covered, but not much use if the nuts would melt or deform and work loose. Ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted July 16, 2022 Share Posted July 16, 2022 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322978052589?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=geERrVvxRge&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted July 16, 2022 Author Share Posted July 16, 2022 Thanks for that - yep, they’d do the job alright. Is there anything in using different metals though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted July 17, 2022 Share Posted July 17, 2022 (edited) Or use stainless nuts and a plain and spring washer. Use plenty of copper grease or a suitable anti-seize compound. No constant moisture there so dissimilar metals is not an issue. I would however use a 2nd nut to cover the remaining exposed stud. Despite it all getting hot, the threads do tend to "fur" - probably as they are hot and react with the air. I wouldn't use brass as they are much softer, and are more likely to strip the thread in the nut. Edited July 17, 2022 by simonb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted July 17, 2022 Share Posted July 17, 2022 26 minutes ago, simonb said: ... I wouldn't use brass as they are much softer, and are more likely to strip the thread in the nut. For this very reason, brass nuts intended for use on manifold studs tend to be longer than standard 'steel' nuts of the same thread. On Ebay UK there are also double length brass nuts, simply to ensure all the stud is covered. That said, I've only seen them in 5/16" UNF, but I've never looked for M10 versions. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 17, 2022 Share Posted July 17, 2022 Long metric brass nuts are definitely available, e.g: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125189413574?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8wq7Z9toR0m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=AFY_9vavSse&var=426235249100&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Northwards Posted July 25, 2022 Author Share Posted July 25, 2022 thanks guys, sorry for slow reply as I've been away. For all the cost, I've hedged my bets and ordered stainless and brass and will see how I go. The stainless are flanged, so there might be more room to get a socket in; brass ones aren't, but are specific, full length manifold nuts. Guess I'll see what arrives first, or what I feel like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 25, 2022 Share Posted July 25, 2022 The problems with manifold nuts is that they either won't come undone at all or perversely they come undone by themselves. I like double brass nuts if possible for that reason 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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