90 Replacement rear crossmember

[Mossberg]

I am looking at getting a replacement rear crossmember for my Defender 90, K reg (93).

Looking around I have seen RCP do one that is from 3mm steel and includes the extensions.

Has anyone used this type and can comment if it's good or bad?

Alternatively, can you recommend a good one?

Also, please flag up if any out there should be avoided. 

Thanks for your help. 

Mick 

[Paddy]

Try this....

 

[cackshifter]

I have a galved and Jotun painted one spare off a 300tdi. You are welcome to it. There are still bits of chassis attached, but a bit of fettling....

[Mossberg]

4 minutes ago, cackshifter said:

I have a galved and Jotun painted one spare off a 300tdi. You are welcome to it. There are still bits of chassis attached, but a bit of fettling....

Yep, interested,  where about are you and how much you looking for? I will be doing the job myself and don't mind a bit of fettling. 

[cackshifter]

Pm sent

[Mossberg]

Replied. 

[Mossberg]

On 8/27/2022 at 8:40 PM, cackshifter said:

I have a galved and Jotun painted one spare off a 300tdi. You are welcome to it. There are still bits of chassis attached, but a bit of fettling....

Well I collected the crossmember from Nigel on Tuesday. Its a pleasure to speak with nice people and he and his good lady invited me to sit and share a coffee with them as we sat in the sun and chatted about things that LR owners chat about. 

So, onto the crossmember, it's in good condition but had been removed from a tired chassis, part of which remained securely welded to it. It was a pain to remove it certainly wouldn't be worth supplying in that state to a garage to fit for you as the labour element required to remove the old bits whilst retaining the integrity of the crossmember wouldn't be cost effective. 

The extensions had been welded to the chassis on each four corners of each leg plus plug welded. The corner welds required two cuts each with the grinder and the plugs to be drilled out using a hole saw. It took quite a few discs to cut and completely destroyed one hole saw. It also required lots of hammering and chiselling but eventually it parted company with the old bits without too much damage. However, my advice to anyone buying a 2nd hand crossmember off ebay would be don't unless you have a really good reason to. Its not an easy task, it's messy and you won't know what you will be left with until you complete the task.

Nigel had painted the crossmember with good grade marine paints and he had obviously taken care whilst doing so.  However, on the parts that weren't galvanised, where the paint had been damaged, moisture had started to do its thing and corrosion had started.  This just shows how even good quality paint applied with care is no solution to preventing rust. Whilst it may prolong the time for rust to start, it can also provide that moisture holding pocket that rust thrives in whilst being hidden  - I will take this as one of the many lessons I am learning during my land rover ownership. 

Anyway,  a few images so you can see the work involved in separating the pieces.

The crossmember as collected 

 

You can see that even with marine grade paint, once damaged a pocket is created for corrosion to start.

 

You can see a galv crossmember after 7 years is still in good condition. 

 

Identifying where it was plugwelded.

 

Inside the attached chassis bits.

 

First one removed.

 

First leg free of the old part.

 

Both parts out.

 

The removed bits.

 

This crossmember is in decent condition due to it being galvanised. As I am time rich but cash limited, Nigel giving me this has been a great plus for me. The main effort has been removing the old chassis sections.  It's taken about 10 cutting discs  a couple of flap discs and wrecked one hole saw, it's messy and has taken a few hours of my time. 

Thanks again Nigel for your kindness and hospitality. 

Edited September 1, 2022 by Mossberg

[cackshifter]

It was good to be rid of the crossmember(thrilled I didn't have to post it); I am pleased it has gone to a good home, but so sorry it took such an effort and expense to loosen the old chassis bits but when I attached it the last thing I wanted was for it to come detached.  Still it looks like persistence pays. The bits that rusted were I think anti roll bar brackets that had been on the old crossmember and were needed on the new for the towbar stays so I I transplanted them. They weren't galved of course. 

[Anderzander]

I’m sure you aren’t due to be apologising after being generous !! 😀

[Mossberg]

3 hours ago, cackshifter said:

It was good to be rid of the crossmember(thrilled I didn't have to post it); I am pleased it has gone to a good home, but so sorry it took such an effort and expense to loosen the old chassis bits but when I attached it the last thing I wanted was for it to come detached.  Still it looks like persistence pays. The bits that rusted were I think anti roll bar brackets that had been on the old crossmember and were needed on the new for the towbar stays so I I transplanted them. They weren't galved of course. 

Please don't apologise, it has taken no more effort than I expected.  I was originally thinking of plasma cutting it but decided that cutting discs would be more accurate.

The only additional cost was a broken hole saw, but that was me originally using too much force.  The reference to cost was if someone was having the work done. I think the cost in labour would be to excessive due to the cost per hour, but for me that isn't a problem as I have spare hours to use 

I knew the roll bar brackets were plain steel and painted but thought it was a good opertunity to show people how such a good paint job with quality marine paints can be a haven for rust when the paint is compromised. I would certainly think twice before painting a chassis and relying on it for rust prevention. I have now stripped the paint off those and will paint with zinc rich primer and a top coat, but also a regular coating of Lanoguard or something. 

I am pleased with the state I have managed to get the crossmember in, however I can't say I am looking forward to fitting it!

Nigel, thanks again and the offer of help if you need it is always on the table.

[Mossberg]

I started with the rear crossmember today after doing the RH bulkhead outrigger.  It came off OK and I was surprised at what I saw inside the chassis leg. I was expecting more crust than a hovis delivery van, but instead was presented with an internal that still had paint in places - definitely not what I expected. I think I need some rust prevention in there to preserve what I have.

I will try to get the crossmember back on in the next couple of days, but hopefully before then get some treatment in there.

[Mossberg]

Both sides better than I expected.  I need some rust inhibitor in there ASAP.

[Mossberg]

The crossmember is fitted but I must admit it was hard work. As the truck had already had a crossmember fitted before, it was a bit of a faff with the width of the chassis legs. 

I didn't cut the legs down enough to start with as I preferred to try it on first. It took a few times, off and on, to decide when it was right but I got there in the end. Its not the easiest thing to do on your own.

Getting it on far enough was difficult. I ended up using a couple of ratchet straps as it was tight - though that was easier when I had cut the legs far enough back.

However I got it all lined up and eventually welded on. That was difficult as it required some awkward positions as I was doing the work on the drive.  Trying to find a position to weld the inner faces whilst wearing a welding screen took some contorting - which was difficult with my knackered back! Didn't help setting myself on fire either (well more smoldering and drawing patterns on myself with a hot blob of steel). My welding looks like the residue from Nelsons column but it's strong enough. 

I have to do the wiring now, but at least the crossmember is on.

 

[cackshifter]

Looking very good. There used to be a slight smear of blue paint on the right where a Renault Clio ran into the back of it. Only damage was it slightly bent the 10mm thick drop plate on the towbar - replaced with 13mm. The Clio was rather more damaged, its crumple zones came into play.

[Mossberg]

Still on axle stands and exhaust not on yet,  but looks a bit tidier now.

Fluid film being applied tomorrow with some internal chassis treatment too. Then onto the wiring.......

 

 

I ended up changing the fog and reverse light whilst the under-arch part was uncovered. I had a pair anyway so it seemed stupid not to use the opportunity to do it, and i am glad I did as the fog was falling apart internally.  I had to butcher them to get them off - another awful design!

[Arjan]

Well done !

[Mossberg]

The crossmember is fitted, wiring completed and everything back together. 

I used a piece of 13core trailer cable to replace the wiring loom.  I ordered the heavier cable with the wires being either 1 5 or 2.5mm2. It felt like a decent quality cable and was heavy/solid enough. 

My wiring loom had 10 wires, two of which were redundant as they were for the rear fuel tank, of the rest there were 7 for the lights and 1 permanent live 

I tested the supply from each wire in the existing loom (not including the fuel tank wires) and everything was working apart from the reverse light which is annoying as it was working before I took the crossmember off. I wasn't too worried about the reverse light as I presume I have possibly disturbed the wiring to the switch, and as its not a requirement for the mot I will leave any investigation until after the test.

I took the unused wires (5) and folded them back onto the main cable and taped them up. I then joined the other cables using heat shrink crimp connectors. I then wrapped everything in insulation tape. 

I routed the cable on top of the chassis. I was going to use a convoluted trunking for the cable but actually found a length of hose that was a good fit. I cut a split along its length and placed it over the cable then taped it every 8 inches or so to secure it.its a good reinforced hose and should protect the cable against any chaffing. This is now a good solid cable and isn't likely to stray from the top of the chassis.  I have used cable ties to secure and it feels nice and secure. 

I fed the cable up into the rear tub then used the excess length to pass over the left. I passed the main loom, right to left loom and trailer socket wire through the same hole in the tub. This will allow me to remove the tub in future without splitting the wires.

I used the other hole in the tub for the light wires.

I had already fitted a direct earth into this area and fitted a multi-point terminal. All the lights connect to this and also the earth cable to the left side which I have again fitted a multi-point connector too.

All has been tested and all works appart from the reverse light which I will sort after the test this week. 

The rear 2/3 of the truck has had a good dose of fluid film and internal wax. I won't do the front 1/3 until after the test as it isn't the nicest stuff to have to grab hold of when testing the steering elements etc.

I will keep you updated as to how the rest goes.

[Mossberg]

Well it's through its mot! Initially failed on the passenger door not latching fully - which is due to a stiff door seal and just needs a good slam to shut. The other item was the windscreen washers- I think it may have some gunk in the tank as its intermittent.  I will take the tank off and give it a clean, then take the jets off and blow the pipes through. 

Thankfully all the work I have done on the chassis, (outriggers front and back,dumb irons and crossmember), plus the refurbished axles and brakes, all passed without any comment. 

Quite chuffed really as this year is the first real spanner work I have done. 

Still lots to learn as I have not done anything with the engine or gearbox, though I am not wishing for any work on those areas thanks.