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Andy’s custom tube buggy… another slow build & definitely not a LR


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As requested, here is the start of my tube buggy rabbit hole !

Frame is based on a Jesse Haines chassis I modified to use a winch tray from Barnes 4WD with the rear switched out to shock hoops. This will allow me to build the frame out to a roller without having to finish all the cage work. DOM tubing is ridiculous expensive at present so, this will save some $ for the time being.

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Axles will be based on the same fabricated centre sections I used on the D100 but with 99-04 Super Duty C’s and knuckles on the front and Trail Gear unit bearing pockets on the rear. Here are a few pic’s of the last ones I built.

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Started to collect parts for the front axle… some cleaning required !

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Already have the inner 4340 CrMo 35 spline axle shafts, ordered up a 35 spline outer to figure out the axle tube dimensions. Once that’s done we can get welding !

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A few more chassis parts arrived from Barnes 4WD, nice H/D winch tray I’ll add some extra gussets to it for looks & stiffness. At $75 it’s not worth drawing one up & having it cut out !

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Two sets of 10 degree square tube link mounts for the lower link subframe end.

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Some 3/8” threaded bushings to mount the belly skid and I’d already got some teardrop reinforcements from TMR Customs.

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I can now finish drawing up the reinforcements for the winch tray and just need to order the material to make the main frame rails, rest I have on the rack.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The 35 spline outer finally arrived, don’t think it fits the hubs 🤣

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Found the special tool from Artec Industries to disassemble the Timken brand hubs and have the bores machined out.

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Getting an idea of 3rd member offset, highly accurate !
 

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Now the waiting game again… at least the snows melting fast, finally have some green grass on the front lawn.

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Drew up a custom wrench (similar to Artec one) to disassemble the SKF unit bearings, already have the one so will get another for the front & get the Timkens for the rear as there a bit cheaper.

Darn… Artec have stopped making the Timken tool… will have to wait until I get my cut parts to move forwards 😕

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  • 3 months later...

After the first attempt at a custom wrench for the SD unit bearing I tweaked the dimensions & had it cut again, this time in 1/4” plate to reduce the slight errors in the cut angle. 5 layers stacked & TIG’d together… slips over the big nut a treat 😀

Next to pull one apart & get it machined out for the 35 spline stub axle.

This projects going to be a long one… we’ve decided to do the early retirement gig, soon to be move it & building a new house in a different area about 5 hours away.

Fun times ahead & looking forward to having a 1000+ sq. ft. shop 👍

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Well… looks like we won’t be needing the special wrench for the unit bearings after all. My machine shop managed to get the complete bearing in the lathe & skimmed out the bore 1 thou over the shaft diameter. Slips together a treat.

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I also had some free time so made a start welding up the parts I’ve acquired so far… just waiting on the rest of the diff housing plates to get bent up now.

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Hopefully we get some rain soon… the smoke from the local forest fire is really getting annoying ☹️
 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got the short side tube mocked up, waiting on another stub to assemble the long side. Made sure the stub was all the way up to the circlip groove to allow for the shaft floating. Can now strip that knuckle assembly down, cut out the old tube stub & get the new piece pressed in.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Got the long side axle tube measured up, will give me a WMS/WMS of 69.5”, not too wide for a compact buggy. Had the raised oil seal lands turned off & polished on the axle shafts for the Trailgear multi-lip axle tube seals to ride on. Worked out about half the price of custom made shafts.

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5 hours ago, simonr said:

They look good - and better value than spending the time to design your own.

Exactly, this is the second set for an investment of $85… so, 20 bucks a housing. Have also come up with a way to save money on an alignment bar. Found an old forum post that discussed using 1.5” DOM instead of solid ground bar stock. If I use 2” x 1/4” wall it can turn into links once the axles are built rather than gathering dust in the shop. The guy also used 3D printed pucks but as I don’t have one machined ones will have to do.

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