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Help required to identify Salisbury axle


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This weekend I collected a Salisbury axle that has disc brakes and abs, which I plan to use as a replacement axle under my x-mod Defender 110. Essentially I am changing the axles to upgrade to disc brakes. 

The axle, the guy who had it has no idea what type of 110 or possibly 130 it came out of, only saying that it has approx 90 thousand km. 

I've been outside with a wire brush trying to find an axle number without any success. Googling and checking in the manual, the obvious spots have not produced anything. The only identity numbers that I found are on the right side of the diff housing.  

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I'm trying to figure out how early or late this axle is because I have read that there was a change over somewheres around 2002 or maybe 2008 where the discs are different depths with corresponding calipers. Plus isn't there different pad thickness? 

I don't know if it's a 60 or 61 serial number axle or any other number for that matter but would the number that I did find help to narrow it down in anyway?

I may have missed the obvious which I'm hoping someone here can inform me of.

Thanks,

Todd.

 

 

 

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Thanks for the tips, in between the rain clouds I managed to wrestle the brake pads out and was able to read a partial number which turned out to be FER3440, googling got me SFP000280 brake pads.

Knowing that I can assume that the axle is 1999 to 2001 because of the abs. 

Still no axle number, more wire brush work required.😕

Todd.

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I don’t think there were any 130s with Sals AND ABS. The Td5 was the first Def’r to offer ABS but the Sals only lasted until about 2002 maybe 3 and I’m pretty sure the 130s didn’t get ABS until the TDCIs 

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Todd

smitty here from NB . My front Salisbury is a 22L and my rear Salisbury is a 21L

the front axles are either 21L or 22L it just denotes the right or left hand drive axle. This is on the early diffs up to 1984 when they went metric . 
all of the series Salisbury’s and the early 110 rears were all 8H axles . They were also SAE they are also mentioned on the DANA site for true tracs. 

the later axles are all metric . If you want to convert the axles to 4.7 ratio you need to use a spacer I think it could be the other way around and have to use a spacer for the 3.54 . 
I bought a spacer plate from Randy’s ring and pinion for a D60 axle . You also need to use your old bolts with the righ gears because the bolts you get with the kit are way too big.

at the moment I can’t remember if I have to have 100though taken off the adaptor to get the true trac to get the ring gear to center into the diff. 
 

are you swapping both axles to Salisbury ones ? I can go do some measuring for you if you wish .

tony 

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That's right, the carrier break is 4.1, series are (stage 1 excepted) 4.7, thus the ring gear carrier is closer to the centre of the pinion than the coilers . So to use a coiler truetrac/ATB, with series ring gear, you need a spacer for a Dana 60.

 

There are no truetracs for series Salisbury axles, that I could find, but there might be lunch box no spin lockers.

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Several retailers used to advertise Trutrac for the 109, but I suspect they were unaware of the different ring gear position.  A spacer is all that is needed to fit any 109, 110 or 130 Defender diff with the lower ratio gears.  There does still seem to be some uncertainty on how thick the spacer needs to be.  I wish I had measured the difference in ring gear flange position when I had my 109 and 110 diff carriers side by side on the bench.

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I do have a few spacers from Ashcrofts that I used years ago with ATB's in the Series 3. 

With that said, I'm just changing axles so that I gain disc brakes on the rear on the Defender. Nick, I will have a question for you in the future about brakes. 

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Todd 

I have several spacer plates here that use the existing mounting bolts for the backing plates . 
if you want the actual factory defender rear discs which are very expensive they will fit right on the axle with the Callipers . 

The easiest thing to do is get the adapters for the calliper mount and have 125 though removed from the adapter removing the material from the calliper mounts centres the disco discs into the calliper . You then install your brake pads , you now have rear discs on the drum brake axle. this is what I did and the brakes work the very best . You don’t even have to change the master cylinder from the big master cylinder used for the drum brakes . This gives you more clamping force on the brakes.

im sure the calliper mounts can be found and for a good price . Have them machined and install the disco Callipers and discs with brake pads and now your rear brakes are now converted to discs .from drum

The part number is FTC3306 for the calliper mount.

you will of course need some longer bolts to mount the calliper mounts to the axle housing . 
 

you have to remove 125 though from the mounting surface where the mounting bracket meets the axle housing flange where the brake backing plate meets the axle tube .

I hope this helps .

Tony 

 

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On 8/23/2023 at 2:26 PM, tuko said:

I do have a few spacers from Ashcrofts that I used years ago with ATB's in the Series 3. 

With that said, I'm just changing axles so that I gain disc brakes on the rear on the Defender. Nick, I will have a question for you in the future about brakes. 

Happy to answer what I can.  My system is all Discovery 1, and works extremely well on the 109 (similar MGVW to a Discovery, less than a 110).  There will obviously be differences if you want a more powerful 110 system.

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On 8/23/2023 at 8:36 PM, Little mule said:

Todd 

I have several spacer plates here that use the existing mounting bolts for the backing plates . 
if you want the actual factory defender rear discs which are very expensive they will fit right on the axle with the Callipers . 

The easiest thing to do is get the adapters for the calliper mount and have 125 though removed from the adapter removing the material from the calliper mounts centres the disco discs into the calliper . You then install your brake pads , you now have rear discs on the drum brake axle. this is what I did and the brakes work the very best . You don’t even have to change the master cylinder from the big master cylinder used for the drum brakes . This gives you more clamping force on the brakes.

im sure the calliper mounts can be found and for a good price . Have them machined and install the disco Callipers and discs with brake pads and now your rear brakes are now converted to discs .from drum

The part number is FTC3306 for the calliper mount.

you will of course need some longer bolts to mount the calliper mounts to the axle housing . 
 

you have to remove 125 though from the mounting surface where the mounting bracket meets the axle housing flange where the brake backing plate meets the axle tube .

I hope this helps .

Tony 

 

BUT Tony,

I already have a salisbury axle with disc brakes therefore there is no requirement for all of this work. I did some work for a friend recently where I got an axle for less than mates rate. It needs some work but it will turnout to be cheaper than the sum of all the parts needed to convert an axle.

 

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9 hours ago, Snagger said:

Happy to answer what I can.  My system is all Discovery 1, and works extremely well on the 109 (similar MGVW to a Discovery, less than a 110).  There will obviously be differences if you want a more powerful 110 system.

I know and thanks to you I have the same setup on the series hybrid. It works GREAT!!! 

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