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LT 95 Fairey overdrive (Devon) reconditioning


Gazzar

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Hah!  That wasn’t your fault at all, but the guy you sold it for is an outright liar and fraudster.  You had no way to know then, but at least you do now and hopefully won’t get ripped off yourself by him.  Sad that it is so commonplace, and getting so much worse.  However, at the end of the day, I’m always a sceptic and didn’t expect it to be in great order (how often have you seen me advise members to fix what they have rather than buy a replacement, be it engines, transmissions, axles or whatever else?), and it did its job of giving me a small project I could do out here and was still a great deal cheaper than buying a new unit, or even a professionally refurbished one, so all ended well, even if it used more funds than anticipated.  Hopefully, you’ll have the same success and satisfaction with this one.

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Would an engineering shop be able to remove the broken tooth, lay down some welds to build up to cut a new tooth and harden it?  I really don’t know if that’d be strong enough, but it might be worth investigating.

Failing that, you could ask Dave Ashcroft, Shabs Piercy and Gavin if they know anyone that might be able to produce such a gear.  Sadly, the one I managed to dig up for mine was the last lay shaft/main shaft pair made by a now retired engineer quite some time ago and I was very fortunate to track them down.  They had been sitting in a box on the back of a shelf since 2007, if I remember rightly, and I only tracked him down through a Google search that lead me to a comment made on a post on my own blog!  I think a single gear could be eye wateringly expensive, but if you were to go to Gavin or Shabs and suggest being the lead on a production run of 10-20 sets, they may be interested, as there will be more and more of these units needing rebuilding.  Perhaps even JLR Classic may be interested.

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I asked a refacing guy that was recommended to me, but the concern is the process will mess up the temper of the steel. I've contacted a few gear repair places, industrial gearboxes, etc, to see if they would be interested. 

One option is to fit the cavitation damaged gear, and the bad input gear, and take pot luck. But not sure about that....

For now, I'll pack everything away and start rebuilding the main gearbox with a higher ratio output gear set. It will do to move the project on.

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@Gazzar if I see him next week I'll ask Bob about the chap he used to cut LT230 gears. Years ago he did some hunting because he wanted some ~0.75:1 ratios for LT230s, found this old school chap running a small company. On enquiring about the possibility of cutting some gears it turned out he'd been involved with the original gear cutting off those gears for Land Rover so knew them quite well.

Alternatively I've got a friend up the road from me who had done a fair bit of one off gear cutting for digger bits etc. If you've got an original for him to copy he might be able to do it.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

And one(ish) for two. Layshaft input gear immaculate

 

But the output cog is showing cavitation. What to do???

 

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I think you may have to.  The damaged teeth on both gears are pretty bad, and though they’d work, for how long is anyone’s guess - I can imagine them breaking up and shedding parts anytime, potentially jamming the bearings and causing more than a loss of drive.  But at least the second lay shaft looks good.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Gazzer, and Snagger

Wow, what an informative discussion going on here, and not one that is 10 years old either! 

 

Bit of an introduction, I'm from New Zealand. Very much love landrovers and have a Stage 1 Series 3 v8 that I have just restored. Naturally, I have had to learn everything LT95. Brilliant gearbox but, jeez, its slow on the road. My box is the 881 Stage 1 prefix, so has the 1.34:1 high range transfer gears. They're the lowest of the lot, opposite end to the 0.996 gears (FRC4032 AND FRC4050).

I very much need to gear my landy up as it gets regular, long motorway use. However, it also gets used offroading so i'm reluctant to change the transfer case gears. I actually have a set of RR 1.123:1 gears here. Out of curiosity, what difference would they make to my cruising speed compared to the 1.34:1 gears?

 

I've done tons of research on working out the various gear sets and part numbers, tooth counts etc. If anyone needs, I can post a photo of my findings.

 

Anyhow, Gazzer, my main reason for posting here is to ask, would you have a usable LT95 fairey overdrive input gear I could buy? I see you've collected up a few overdrives and am hoping one may have a usable input gear you might be open to selling. I have managed to find an overdrive. The clutch sleeve etc are brilliant, look almost new actually. However, I was gutted to find, upon removal of the top cover, that the input gear has a row of chips on it - every third tooth is chipped, near the rear edge. Other than that, the teeth look fine. But probably not usable as it is. Also, the laygear has no chips, but there is some 'bruising' to the flats of the teeth. Probably still usable though... There are a few available, but the sellers, not being land rover enthusiasts, are just tycoons trying to hold us to ransom. I could buy an entire land rover for what one of them is asking!

Thank you, again, for such an informative thread. I can not afford to be paying mechanics to work on my vehicle (and I probably wouldn't trust them anyway!!!!), so do everything myself. I thus rely on the likes of yourselves, and the collective wisdom you graciously take the time to share. In a world where time is money, it is very much appreciated.

 

Look forward to hearing from you all.

 

Dan

Bruised laygear.jpg

Chipped input gear.jpg

Mainshaft. Looks okay.jpg

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Hi Dan, I'll take a look. 

 

On the LT95 ratios the high gear ratios make no difference to low box. 

Your box has the slowest gearing  of all.

Use the Ashcroft ratio calculator to see what the effect is.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Dan.

Id be surprised if the damage was limited to just that gear.  It’s pretty major damage, and those pieces will have gone somewhere, so it may have damaged more than just the lay shaft too, but I think you can reasonably expect the lay shaft gear that meshes with the gear you photographed to be in similar condition.  Sorry - not news you would want to hear, but a heavy dose of pragmatism.  You may be lucky and find it’s ok - I hope you do, but I think you would be wise to strip it for inspection and, if for nothing else, removal of any debris.

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Wonder what broke to cause that?

Bearing?

 

In an ideal world, replace both, but as parts are nigh on impossible to find, and all the old boys who actually make things have retired, using the Boeing approach to second rate parts is the only option.

If it meshes without binding, and the oil is changed every service, it will probably be okay. As with all Fairey overdrives, bring the parts & tools to remove and revert to standard with you.

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1 minute ago, Gazzar said:

As with all Fairey overdrives, bring the parts & tools to remove and revert to standard with you.

Yep.  Having the original transfer box input gear, nut and rear bearing support casing allowed me to refit those in a car park when the circlips broke on a Fairey, allowing way to much end float.  By removing the OD asap, it saved any damage to other parts, limiting repairs to new clips in the overdrive and no harm at all to the transfer box.

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Hi guys

 

Thanks for the prompt and informative replies.

Yes, re the RR 1.113 high range gears I have here, they'd make a 400rpm difference at 100km/hr. I'm tempted to use them as far stronger, and less to go wrong, than the fairey. However, with the (rather tired - engine hasn't been rebuilt) old 3.5 v8, the Landy would be very sluggish in high range. With the OD, however, I keep my gearing. And to be honest, I like the originality of having the OD on my Landy.

I will strip the OD later today. I too would like to know what went wrong. As you did, Gazzar, I'll buy the GLF rebuild kit and fully rebuild it. I just need to source a good input gear, and potentially (agree with your suspicions, Snagger), a laygear too.

 

I'll post photos of what I find later on. Just need to make sure I dismantle slowly and carefully, so I know where it all goes later!

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56 minutes ago, Gazzar said:

I'd strip before buying the whole kit. You might not need everything.

Also, more pessimistically, it would be a waste to buy a kit if the unit is beyond repair because of having too many damaged unobtainable parts.

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Well, got it all apart. Followed your instructions Gazzar - they were spot on. When I slid layshaft and mainshafts out, I stuck long screwdrivers in there, just to hold everything in place so I could remove each part piece by piece, so I know how it all goes back!

 

Okay, so I'm pleasantly surprised. The layshaft does not have any chipping whatsoever, or cracks visible to the naked eye. What it does have, and only on the large gear, is some cavitation type wear. The smaller gear, that rngages with the input shaft, has no cavitation marking at all. I'll put some photos up. Do you guys think my layshaft is usable? If not, I'll need to find another.

As to the other parts...The only other damage I found was some markings to the rear shell of the large input gear bearing - looks like one of the teeth that broke off must've rubbed past perhaps. That said, no marks at all on the rear aluminum cover... Also, the circuit holding the bearing on was actually slightly pushed rearward. I had to press the bearing toward the gear a fraction to get circling off. I'd day that, when the gear chipped, it tried to force itself rearward, shunting the bearing back against the circlip.

Other than these two (input gear and wear to layshaft) issues, everything in the Overdrive looks in top shape. The oil had previously been drained prior to my buying it. There was no metal, at all, in the bearings or shims, and no scoring to those parts. The layshaft rear surface has some wear from spinning, but it's usage wear rather than destructive damage, if that makes sense. The little oil left in the bottom looked okay, a healthy colour and texture. Puzzled at the chipped teeth and lack of other damage, I asked an engineer friend. He said that, usually, big chips drop into the sump and don't float in the oil. It's shavings, he said, that are the main danger as they move with the oil, turning it into a grinding paste.

 

So, overall, it would seem the stuffed input gear is my main issue?...

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