Paul C Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 All the Rover v8s have the same basic engine, the block and heads are externally the same dimensions, you have to look for the small differences like cross bolts and head bolts to tell the difference if it doesn't have an engine number(my 3.9 has no numbers on the block) You can fit front covers and manifolds from early 3.5s even to a late 4.6 block and it will look the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 44 minutes ago, Paul C said: The engine I have just removed from my 110 is a serpentine 3.9 that I put a carb manifold and cd175s on. When I got it in a 96 discovery it was overheating. I found tin plate gaskets and loose head bolts and replaced those but still was heating, checked the timing and found the vacuum advance was knackered, replaced that and it has been fine ever since. Ah ok, will bare this in mind then when digging into the engine. I assume when you say the vacuum advance, do you mean you had to replace the dizzy? Engine was rebuilt 8k miles ago and can’t get the details so do worry how good a job was done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 Good to know re the different engines. Need to think on this more as part of me does just love idea of carrying on with the current engine and having that originality though obviously the other models bring the benefits. Also worry I could end up with an engine that could still need a lot of work unless I splash out on a rebuilt engine. Did spot the below on eBay…. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276210124896?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=c0KgWvspT7q&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=9FsqrjJWROa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 3 Share Posted February 3 Good way to find out just how much bottle you have in a SWB land rover. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 I am not sure what Discovery prices are like where you are, but usually it is the body that is stuffed long before the engine, here it is possible to pick up a good runner 3.9 disco for less than just an engine second hand. I scrapped 3x 3.9s, a few years ago and got the parts I wanted at no cost by the time I sold off the remains. A 3.9 will make it run well, you can use your carbs and manifolds at it will still look the same. Distributor doctor has all the parts for the dizzy or can sell you a new or rebuilt one. I got the vacuum advance on its own, I got it from one of the Landy suppliers but also used to be common on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 Back to basics for a second You have a ticking noise, and are overheating for no apparent reason. How sure are you of the timing and fuelling? Detonation and/or running lean can cause overheating, and will sound like a ticking noise, especially under load. And will make a 3.5 feel especially gutless. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 Yeah I think for now I’m going to stick to getting this engine in good shape and running as it should rather than changing and I can then see what it’s really like! So the tapping is only able to be heard when idling with a warm engine, appreciate it may likely still be there under load. Sounds like fuelling may also be causing it to cut out, interestingly it did fine on the final journey home but I was going very steady, maybe less than 25mph. Never cuts out idling. Interestingly I would say the truck makes a very strong smell of petrol (no visible leaks) but I’ve been putting this down to just as it’s a v8 petrol but now wandering if that’s part of issue? Also the oil change was very black, again though I don’t have details of last service, just know it was all rebuilt 8k miles ago. i assume fuelling can be the setup of carb, incorrect needles etc? (Mostly goes over me but I’m very keen to learn!) with regards to timing does anyone know of a good (correct!) YouTube video or detailed write up that will help me get it spot on?1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 18 hours ago, Mediamab said: Hey everyone. Another fun Saturday So decided to take my LR 90 for a drive, just to see if it affects tapping noise (incidentally it may have done) but I have the below two issues… Only when driving (idling on drive no issue) the engine suddenly drops power or totally looses it. When it lost all power it would start but immediately die. Did that a few times then suddenly it started and got me home luckily. Assuming this is either electrical or fuelling?! When I got home I left it running for a couple of minutes. When I turned the engine off it stopped with a couple of slow cranks which I’ve never noticed before (is this normal?!). Then the coolant system started making a lot of funny noises, spat coolant out of the overflow on the header tank and sat there quite obviously boiling and took many minutes to stop. Interesting the first time I saw the temp gauge almost to the middle. (Usually sits at the bottom of the white line) it has Prestone coolant in it and I’d checked header and had plenty before I set off. hit me with your words of wisdom that hopefully don’t make me cry ha I’ve never known coolant to boil! Looses power then starts and dies. Did you replace the fuel pump recently? Sounds like fuel starvation. Turn the engine off and it stops with a couple of slow cranks. Do you mean it runs on as per detonation? That is caused by the engine being too hot, often because the mixture is too lean and the timing too advanced. I would check the fuel pump and fuel system again. If you did replace the pump there could be contamination in the lines or carbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 11 minutes ago, Mediamab said: i assume fuelling can be the setup of carb, incorrect needles etc? (Mostly goes over me but I’m very keen to learn!) If your 4-barrel carb is anything like the ones I had it will almost certainly be over-fuelling and the mixture screws will vibrate themselves loose every fortnight or so. I binned the 4-barrel and fitted the early flapper EFI (most basic of all the EFI systems) and it was night and day better for that alone. But then I got fed up with the low-comp lump with clockwork everywhere and threw a 4.6 in the hole, if you're curious how much work that is: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 You need a timing light to check the timing, and worth getting a gunson color tune, you can check the fueling and timing then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 I was also just looking and the standard fuel pump in tank for my v8 is PRC7019 and looking at details it appears to be 0.14 bar (2Psi) which I believe is lower than edlebrock advised pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 5 minutes ago, Paul C said: Looses power then starts and dies. Did you replace the fuel pump recently? Sounds like fuel starvation. Turn the engine off and it stops with a couple of slow cranks. Do you mean it runs on as per detonation? That is caused by the engine being too hot, often because the mixture is too lean and the timing too advanced. I would check the fuel pump and fuel system again. If you did replace the pump there could be contamination in the lines or carbs I haven’t got to replacing the fuel pump yet as it seemed to stop making any funny noises and wasn’t 100% sure noises were it. makes sense re continuing to run and yes exactly what I meant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 3 minutes ago, Paul C said: You need a timing light to check the timing, and worth getting a gunson color tune, you can check the fueling and timing then. Ah ok not heard of the colour tune so will take a look at that!👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 As an alternative to my carb. Has anyone used the Holly Sniper EFI? A friend knows someone who may be selling his and wandering if now’s a sensible time to switch? He also shared the below off eBay (which I know goes against all I’ve said ha there’s just part of me that feels rather than spending a penny on what I have (and a lot of time!), make the switch now) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195967907580?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=rbzVwinIQDW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=9FsqrjJWROa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 Any EFI* will be infinitely better than a leaky toilet, has good market share in the US where having messy injectors at the inlet ports make converted classics look untidy. That engine is a 4.0, which will require more work than the 3.9, as mentioned above, swapping front covers and the like to make it classic, but may be worth it. £2K is a bit strong, if you ask me. *As long as you steer clear of old and worn out Lucas stuff from the 80s! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 Yeah I’m just slightly wary by the time I’ve gone through the engine and replaced parts that are likely or cry at a slipped liner then maybe an engine replacement is financially better. Flipside I assume the EFI would be suitable for my 3.5. Apparently it’s the kit below. Would this require me to replace inlet manifold too? I guess a new fuel pump for higher pressure? Sniper EFI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 2k is a lot for a 4.0 lump given how many rusty MOT failed D2 and P38's there are out there for no money - that way you can drive it & check it out before you do the swap too. Know nothing about the holley sniper, if the price is right it may well bolt onto your intake manifold and give you more reliable fuelling but that LC 3.5 is never going to be a beast. At least the Holley would be transferrable across engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 I bought my 4.0 for £600 then spent well over 2k on it chasing my clicking. It was absolutely not worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 14 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said: I bought my 4.0 for £600 then spent well over 2k on it chasing my clicking. It was absolutely not worth it. Yeah that doesn’t sound fun! Assume you’d lean towards a car with an engine then? My only annoyance with that is the space for the car and also what to then do with it ha. I’d love a totally rebuilt engine, with warranty that I know is great as if I upgrade it’s for long term just $$ which is why the one in link caught my eye as it’ll be cheaper direct too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 So a quick question if I went 4.6 is the LT85 and LT230 up to spec for an engine with far greater torque and hp? Just trying to compare budgets now a change is in my head ha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Honestly you'd probably be better off with a more modern gearbox unless you like a clunky old rattly thing... It'll probably cope, but unless you are wedded to it there are better options. The LT230 will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 33 minutes ago, Mediamab said: is the LT85 and LT230 up to spec for an engine with far greater torque and hp? This is an experiment I am currently running. I don't know when I'll be publishing the results but I'll be sure to update the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 Thanks both! Yeah I think if I go down the “not worried about original” I probably would long term want to change the gearbox. I’m just really fighting with whether to stay original, and make it the best it can be. Just something nice about it being original 1988 engine and gearbox and only done 80k miles 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mediamab Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 6 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said: This is an experiment I am currently running. I don't know when I'll be publishing the results but I'll be sure to update the forum. Will definitely be following to find out the results!! 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Unless you are planning on adding a couple of tonnes of weight in the back the gearbox is not likely to be a problem if used correctly. Axles and diffs are more likely to break first. Unless you get a real great deal on a 4.6 then a 3.9 would surely be cheaper and would give you an impressive power boost. Even in the 110 it was like a different car. In standard form a discovery 3.9 car is heavier than a 110, a 90 much lighter still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.