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V8 - Engine Cutting Out & Coolant Boiling


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9 hours ago, Mediamab said:

So a quick question ;) if I went 4.6 is the LT85 and LT230 up to spec for an engine with far greater torque and hp? Just trying to compare budgets now a change is in my head ha

As far as I know Land Rover never offered a manual option on the 4.6. The R380 as used on the 4.0 is a direct fit and will do the job even though it's not rated for the torque of the 4.6. I've been running that combo for years.

As Paul said, an LT85 in decent nick should cope just fine as well if you show it a bit of mechanical sympathy and aren't constantly towing heavy trailers.

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Just one thought, how original/complete is the car? It sounds like a factory V8 (assuming station wagon, haven't seen any photos).

Prices for completely standard factory V8s are some of the highest (accounting for age and mileage) so before making anything too permanent, you might want to consider ways forward. They're not quite collectors items yet, but the more that get modified, the closer we get. 

I'm all for doing what you want with your own car, but I try not too think about how much value I wiped off mine.

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Bar the the galv chassis and a bit of a dodgy respray (removal of CSW stickers and added chequer plate) it is pretty much standard but has obviously already move somewhat away from it. Which is why im fighting with just improving / restoring than just starting from scratch, even though some steps already taken beyond original by others...

IMG_0236.JPG.324bbc26c531002c26fca81fccbf4ef5.JPG

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11 hours ago, Paul C said:

Unless you get a real great deal on a 4.6 then a 3.9 would surely be cheaper

These days it's far easier to find a crusty D2 or P38 with 4.0 / 4.6 than a classic Range Rover or D1 with a 3.9 in it. And the later blocks have numerous improvements like larger journals, cross-bolted mains, better oil pump, single serp belt, and composite head gaskets.

The 4.0 is basically the best version of the 3.9.

@Mediamab I understand the dilemma about retaining originality but you can (if you're reasonably careful) drop a 4.6 + R380 into your truck with zero permanent modifications, it's just some wiring & plumbing and maybe a swap of the transmission tunnel moulding. The original 3.5 from our 127 is under a tarp at the back of the lock-up should we ever want to revert it to standard or sell it to a collector who values originality.

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@FridgeFreezer yeah definitely if I do a swap I plan to retain engine/gearbox for sure. Ive noticed the 4.0 is far easier to get hold of than a 3.9. The one I shared the other day they'll do a nice amount lower and thats the price of stage 1 heads on my 3.5 and value difference is huge between those 2!!

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26 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

V8s are so last year ! What you need is a nice German 6 pot diesel with a 6 or 8 speed autobox 😈 more power as standard, loads more torque and better mpg 😬

I'm sure they've lovely but for the price of the conversion I can run my V8 for years...

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7 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

I'm sure they've lovely but for the price of the conversion I can run my V8 for years...

No pain no gain

The more you drive it the greater the fuel saving, eroding the savings made by fitting a v8

😉

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  • 3 weeks later...

So have made decision (maybe longer term I’ll go bigger and bolder ha) but for now gonna do a rebuild of the engine with some new pistons to up compression and new cam etc and get it to top condition. Was just doing it’s finally run to move into a sensible place to start taking the engine out…

As you guys mentioned I bought an infra red temp gauge and it does seem to be getting a bit too hot. If I read temp of the cylinder head the right side is reading 15-20degrees higher, it’s also the side I’m pretty sure the tapping is from. Would that temperature indicate a head gasket failure? Struggling to think of other reason for such a variance and I checked it many times ha!

side note - will start a build thread soon rather than lots of new topics as I am sure I’ll be looking for help :)

 

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