Crown Wheel & Pinion Suppliers

[landroversforever]

10 minutes ago, elbekko said:

Evidently ARP does some as well: https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=5300

I actually went to their site to check if they had any studs available for that application, as I'd expect that to be a better idea since the correct torque is so important? But there might not be enough room for that?

IMO a bolt is the best option here as you're not into a blind hole to retain the stud whilst assembling. 

[uninformed]

10 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

IMO a bolt is the best option here as you're not into a blind hole to retain the stud whilst assembling. 

If you are thinking that a stud needs to bottom out in a blind hole, that is incorrect and not good practice 

[uninformed]

23 minutes ago, elbekko said:

Evidently ARP does some as well: https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=5300

I actually went to their site to check if they had any studs available for that application, as I'd expect that to be a better idea since the correct torque is so important? But there might not be enough room for that?

If you want to go high quality like ARP, trust their knowledge and judgement by using what they design for the job. Take note of the head type on their Ring Gear and Fly Wheel bolts. There is reason to this design and the fact it’s not the standard ARP bolt head or stud nut should tell you something. 

[fmmv]

I have wondered why the ring gear and diff aren't dowelled together like eg crank and flywheel. They would help if the bolts are stretched momentarily

[landroversforever]

9 minutes ago, uninformed said:

If you are thinking that a stud needs to bottom out in a blind hole, that is incorrect and not good practice 

I know what you mean, but in the case of a crownwheel, there isn't much in the way of space the other side for it to move through which it inevitably would (or bind on the upper part of the hole which IMO is worse).

[Snagger]

2 hours ago, elbekko said:

Evidently ARP does some as well: https://arp-bolts.com/kits/arpkit-detail.php?RecordID=5300

I actually went to their site to check if they had any studs available for that application, as I'd expect that to be a better idea since the correct torque is so important? But there might not be enough room for that?

They look great quality, much better than the cheap set.  I don’t like to spend that sort of money without confidence of using the parts, but I probably don’t have many US trips left in the near future, and having them sent to a hotel there would save me a fortune in shipping.  I’ll try fitting the Dana ring gear on the ATB tomorrow.  If it does fit, then it’ll all be down to that damned pinion and whatever magic Stephen can do with it, so I think I’ll order a set. If it doesn’t work, then maybe someone else can use them.

[Bowie69]

28 minutes ago, Snagger said:

They look great quality, much better than the cheap set.  I don’t like to spend that sort of money without confidence of using the parts, but I probably don’t have many US trips left in the near future, and having them sent to a hotel there would save me a fortune in shipping.  I’ll try fitting the Dana ring gear on the ATB tomorrow.  If it does fit, then it’ll all be down to that damned pinion and whatever magic Stephen can do with it, so I think I’ll order a set. If it doesn’t work, then maybe someone else can use them.

Available over here if you search by kit number: 

ARP 200-3001 Bolt Kit (Dana 60 ring gear) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

[elbekko]

39 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:

Available over here if you search by kit number: 

ARP 200-3001 Bolt Kit (Dana 60 ring gear) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Still ships from the US though.

[uninformed]

Some thoughts…

regarding the CW bolts for using a Dana 60 gear set in a Salisbury. Double check the length required and what you are buying. Factor in spacers if required and depending on bolt type if a washer is required. 
 

Looking at the ARP ring gear (Crown wheel in our world) bolts, they don’t use a washer. This is fine, especially with the larger head area. Do take a good look at the underside of any bolt to see how much of a radius it has transitioning from under side of head to shank. Most standard ARP bolts have a generous radius and are supplied with a chamfered washer to allow clearance for it (you don’t want that radius binding on or in). 
 

If not using washers you can use a chamfer or deburring bit to put a relief in your hemisphere holes. 
 

ALWAYS use hardened washers. Anything soft will deform, not only during installation, but also in use, reducing bolt preload and resulting in failure. Most lock washers are useless,ESPECIALLY split washers. They belong in the bin. If you feel the need, use something good, again hardend, like Nord-Lock 
 

If buying a bolt with a smooth shank MAKE SURE the transition from shank to thread is not right near the mounting face of crown wheel. As there is no counterbore in the threaded hole, the transition should be at least 1.5 full threads inside the hemisphere. Reason being is the shank to thread is a stressed area, as is the mounting face of crown wheel, you don’t want these meeting together. 

[Snagger]

Thanks.  I was aware of those issues, but good to know I haven’t overlooked them.  If I use the Dana, it should be without spacer as it’s 4.1:1.  That would mean standard length bolts.  If I have to keep the 4.71, then that will require a spacer and longer M12s.