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Cost of bulkhead replacement..??


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Hi, just weighing up the costs of paying for a garage to install a new bulkhead on my 1991 110.

Any ideas on time and labour costs..?

I will be supplying the bulkhead, any other items I should replace whilst the work is carried out?

Also is it best to paint it before installation or after..?

And how do I protect it in the coming years from disolving again..?

Sorry if this has been covered before, I tried doing a search but computers hate me...

cheers

db

:D

Edited by western
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Hi

Save yourself a fortune and do it yourself, its dead easy and can be done in a day, paint and waxoyl your new b/h first, or get it galved (even better). Make sure you get all your parts ordered in first ie new seals etc. Its one of those jobs that looks complicated and involved but trust me its very straightforward!

Mike

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Guest WALFY

Just done the b/head on my motor. As said buy all the bits before you start. If I can find my reciept I'll mail you a copy, that way you'll have a good starting point. It took me working from 0900-1700 each day. Took me 6 days but I was on my own. Getting the b'head out onyour own was interesting to say the least.

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Thanks for the replies, Mike 1x Day, Walfy 6x days, guess If I can do it somewhere in between I'll be onto a winner.

Walfy, your offer of your receipt as a list of parts would be a great help, can you send it to...

david@rekab69.freeserve.co.uk

If I galvanis it before it goes in do i have to get it back to bare metal before it can be galvanised..? think i might know the answer to this...

thanks again for all your advise..

db

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Guest WALFY

No particular order. Mine was done in the order the weather dictated, as I was doing it outside. Just make sure that you follow a systematic method for removing and storing the bits. Where I could remove the bolts/nuts/screws and put them back in position so I knew where they went. Or you could buy a lot of small bags and do it that way.

Idealy you would work 1 side of the bulkhead and then move to the other side. I bounced between the 2 thus making it a lot harder and slower. Mine is a truckcab and I didn't remove the roof. I took the screen out and then the bulkhead. The roof if bolted correctly has enough support to just hang there.

As for a basic list of parts till I get to the garage to find my receipt.

Bulkhead bolts

Doorhinge/bulkhead bolt set

Seal b/head-screen

Seal screen-roof

Seal heaterbox-b/head

Red inserts that hold floor plates down

If you choose to use a TD5 b/head the problems I ran into are;

1. Gearbox tunnel. Needs to be trimmed very slightly. Just lay the bracket you remove from the old b/head and lay it on the new 1 and score aline, then trim to suit. You then need to find a way to fix it back. I used rivnuts as I couldn't drill square holes for the inserts.

2. Top Rail. Top rail of b/head where the dash bolts on. The gap where the air vents come up and point to the screen are WAY bigger on the TD5 bhead. I just cut the rail off the old b/head and used the red inserts to bolt it down and then the rest just bolts up as normal.

3. Wiper Motor.Wiper motor will need to have a new mounting hole drilled. Again I used a rivnut to hold it in place. The problem I'm having now is I can't get the speaker to fit in the dash now, so lookig for a solution.

4. Wiring loom. Where it goes through the bulkhead in the cente above the fuse box on the old 1 there is a 2'' round hole. On the TD5 1 there is no hole. I just used 1 of those round hole thingys that someone has put in the Fab forum.

5. Wiring. To save time where the loom goes off to the lights I just cut the loom at an easy point. Easier than stripping out the loom as far as the lights. There maybe a connecter somewhere but I couldn't find one. Just make sure that you connect them up correctly. When I did mine it was getting dark and I was working by LED worklight and managed to get 2 wires the wrong way round. Dip and main beam on the n/s were reversed in operation. Totaly did my head in.

6. Heaterbox. Where the box mounts to the top of the footwell there are no bolt holes on the new bulkhea so they need to be drilled. My motor now rubs the cowling from the wingtop intake and makes a right din. Just got to be moved slightly.

7. Fuel Filter. If you are running a 200 TDI and have the fuel filter on the b/head there are no holes to mount it with. Again I used rivnuts.

8. Heater Controls. If you unbolt the brackets with the slidy things on, they will pass through the b/head. So can be removed and refitted without messing up the settings. So much easier than having to set it up.

9. Steering Column. I removed the column completely right down to the steering box. Made it easier to get everything else out.

As I think of ther things I'll add them. If you have any specific questions then fire away and I'll do my best to answer them

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Guest WALFY
Thanks for the replies, Mike 1x Day, Walfy 6x days, guess If I can do it somewhere in between I'll be onto a winner.

Walfy, your offer of your receipt as a list of parts would be a great help, can you send it to...

david@rekab69.freeserve.co.uk

If I galvanis it before it goes in do i have to get it back to bare metal before it can be galvanised..? think i might know the answer to this...

thanks again for all your advise..

db

If you want to galv it then you hae to strip everything off. I just left it in it's primer and will paint over the top. Unless you intend doing the same again in 20 yrs then I think galv is awaste of time money. If you waxoil the inside of the b'head then you are well onto saving it from hidden corrosion.

Sorry if I'd read the post properly I'd of answered it in the last post

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I did my bulkhead in about 2.5 days with JST. That was outside and starting with complete motor and ending the same way. Some time is spent just putting interior back together etc.

I did like Walfy and cut the wires half way along the wing on each side to make it easier. Accessed by removing part of the eye brow on each side which you will want to do for access to the bolts holding wing to bulkhead.

All other wires could be unclipped/plugged so no other problems.

We left wings on and managed it.

We left roof on although was difficult to lever new bulkhead windscreen under. Would be a lot quicker and easier to remove roof I expect (which I did at later date as changed body cappings so ensure properly seated and sealed then).

We left a lot on bulkhead when we removed from vehicle (pedals, steering, etc) then we swapped it all over to new bulkhead whilst off vehicle. Saved losing bits or remembering how they fitted then put new bulkhead in.

You may need to drill steering lock bolts as sheared heads normally. We replaced the bolts holding bulkhead to chassis. Replaced all the door hinges/bolts/captive nuts as they were knackered anyway.

Mine was an 84 bulkhead that I fitted to my 87 machine so not much difference apart from I have reverted back to the 2 windscreen washers instead of the central one as no hole there on the 84 bulkhead. Also no bonnet release mount in DS footwell so have had to do that differently (and no its not still attached to the front grill before WHite90 or JST mention it!!).

Hope it goes well. Not a difficult job, just takes times as lots mounted to it. We had rain during our build and still got it done in reasonable time without rushing.

Cheers,

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one thing i noticed while doing mine was the alignment , its a right job.

hang the doors first , then line them all up then tighten up the bulkhead brackets.

don't tighten up the steering column until the bulkhead is aligned and leave the windscreen brackets loose , if over tightened they will make the windscreen and bulkhead act like a huge hinge throwing off the alignment.

as said above though its an easy enough job. if you do use a td5 bulkhead you might need to drill holes for the floor , i did but i was using lots of different parts from different vehicles (second hand).

use the old diaphragm as a template to cut the new tranny tunnel and if you can buy or borrow one a parts manual will save you stacks of time , if only to illustrate how things go together.

also buy 100 or so m8x40 bolts , washers and nylock nuts , very handy , my floor , tranny tunnel and diaphragm are all connected up with nuts and bolts.

but my best advice , buy a parts catalogue or borrow one. look at each job (removing steering , heater etc) and have a look at all the fittings and fixtures you will need , its better to be prepared. also as said above riv-nuts are going to pull you out of tight spots and all you need is two spanners and a bolt and washer and two nuts to 'riv nut' them in so try and find a local fixings suppliers.

get a radio and keep the kettle close by.

have fun.

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Thanks to one and all for your expertise / advice..

1. Are stainless steel nuts and bolts ok to use or are they too brittle..?

Bulkhead is ordered and with all the great tips and advice I shall soon be sitting in a big heap of Landie in the very near future...

Can't wait..

cheers

db :D:D

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Guest WALFY

When the b/head is off it looks a bit sorry for itself. It was at this point I became a bit disilusioned and got a bit depressed. As soon as the new 1 goes on it immiediatly looks 10x better.

Goes from this

bulkheadchange029.jpg

To this

bulkheadchange054.jpg

Via this

bulkheadchange044.jpg

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When the b/head is off it looks a bit sorry for itself. It was at this point I became a bit disilusioned and got a bit depressed. As soon as the new 1 goes on it immiediatly looks 11x better.

Goes from this

bulkheadchange029.jpg

To this

bulkheadchange054.jpg

Via this

bulkheadchange044.jpg

hahaha... blimey Walfy, you don't look old enough to drive let alone strip down a Landie.. and I thought police officers were starting to look young.... :o

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Guest WALFY

I do look young. Lots of moisturiser and sleep. Don't work for a living and you to could end up looking like that.

On a serious note, thats my apprentice. An 11 yr old and can explain exactly how a diff works and has an opinion on everything.

I taught him nothing he knows :D

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have a wee look at your sills , they might need replacing to. not the sills as such but the metal bars they connect to. im not sure how it all works on a 110 but im assuming if you have a 3 door its the same as a 90 however if you have a 5 door they cost summit like 300 quid a side. you might get away with leaving them alone but when i removed mine they disintegrated, my tin worm was pretty advanced though.

post-2379-1174690490_thumb.jpg

post-2379-1174690542_thumb.jpg

post-2379-1174690672_thumb.jpg

post-2379-1174691081_thumb.jpg

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hi chris,

i got them second hand fella , a member of land rover.net put me in touch with his friend who had some spare. they dont come galvanized nowadays as far as im aware so i was very lucky to get them as he had them dipped himself. i wasent aware that they were so hard to get. im not sure of the part numbers ,but i do know that the early ones were galvanized and the latter were just coated with black paint.

Rob.

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Thanks Rob,

Looks like my best bet is a salvage company. Anyone know if the later defenders (Td5) have have different side frames?

Mine is a '91 200 Tdi 110, the side frames have all but rotted off.

Getting stuff galvanised shouldn't be a problem and i'll probably get a bulkhead done at the same time (after it's been modified like above posts, cheers guys).

Chris :)

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Chris have you got the 110 parts catalogue?

ive got the pre defender 90 parts catalogue and its giving me two numbers ,mrc9904/mrc9905 and mwc1086/mwc1087 , the latter pair being after the introduction of the 1987 model but i doubt the part itself changed. i know the early ones were galvanized as were other bits like the cappinge and this was the turning point so perhaps the only change was to not galvanize them.

i did buy the triangle bracket from autopost (347436) and strangley enough it came galvanized.

so , 110 sill channel's might be different from 90's? i think the ones i used were from a 300 tdi but i cant be sure , they did fit however some of the holes were miss matched but i was using a td5 bulkhead , different seat box and new floor panels so it was hardly supprising.

cheers

Rob.

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Cheers Rob,

i do have a 110 parts manual that lists the numbers as previously mentioned. However when i went to craddox they said they've been changed and are now ALR ???? (can't remember)

The 110 side frames are quite a big item and also includes the angled piece that goes upto the waist line.

Worst part was when i went round their yard there was an identical (but newer) colour 110 in for salvage and i saw them moving it round the yard with a forklift and straps, totally knackering the side frames which were in pristine nick beforehand. Grrrrrrrrrrr,

They said they just can't get hold of them and they've been on back order for six months or more !

Thanks Chris

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Guest weeble
I do look young. Lots of moisturiser and sleep. Don't work for a living and you to could end up looking like that.

On a serious note, thats my apprentice. An 11 yr old and can explain exactly how a diff works and has an opinion on everything.

I taught him nothing he knows :D

Are you sure you have got that the right way around Walfy, Who`s the apprentice????????? ;);)

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Guest WALFY

OK. Have to admit it He taught me everything I know ;) ;) .

But he did have a good mentor, I think :D :D

See you at the weekend for my next lesson.

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